Sound dampening

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CWO

Joined
Sep 7, 2005
Threads
9
Messages
37
Location
Silverdale, WA
Folks,

I'm putting a 3B in a FJ60. I have the interior out (completely) and will be installing sound dampening from the firewall to the cargo area and will do the doors and qtr panels. I've read some info on old threads but am interested in your opinions if you have done it. Mostly, I'm interested in materials. Cost is not a big issue here. Reducing noise is. How say you?
 
I've used dynomat, it works well. If it were me, and I had the carpet out - I would use some type of roll on material. Then use a Dynomat like material for the doors.
 
I have an ASSLOAD of Dynamat in my 62. Doors, fenders (on the inside), floor of the cargo area, and if I pull the headliner one day (don't really plan to), it'll go up there too. For padding under my carpet, I used LyTherm Max, and it's outstanding. Insulates the interior and blocks sound very well. I have spray-on Dyamat that I'll spray the wheel wells with once I get time to let it sit and cure for 24 hours in a warm, dry environment, and on the bottom of my truck I'll put some LyTherm Zero Clearance above the entire exhaust to block out the sound of my Flowmaster. I highly recommend you use this for the forward side of your firewall, as it will also deflect the heat back to your engine instead of letting it get through the firewall. It also is an excellent shield against noise from what I've read about it.

So far I've noticed a HUGE difference in the noise that gets into my truck, and I'm not even done yet! My stereo sounds worlds better, and the carpet is very well padded. When it's all done I'll take sound readings from the cab to see how much of a difference everything made altogether. I've got the before readings already, and lemme tell ya, it's alot louder than most of us think. We're just used to the noise :doh:
 
used Cascade Audio Engineering product throughout our truck -- similar to Spook's job with a similar report card. Do it, use top quality materials, be thorough and you won't be disappointed. Tech support from these guys is great and they are a pleasure to work with.

here the link: http://www.cascadeaudio.com/

-dogboy- '87 FJ60
 
Tinker said:
Spook -
When you say fenders, do you mean front or rear?

Shoulda specified rear. All four wheel wells will be sprayed though, in hopes of absorbing as much engine noise as possible.

Not really any point of putting sound deadener in the engine compartment, unless it's on the firewall :D
 
Spook50, how much Dynamat did you use? I'm getting ready to start this project on the BTJ62 and wanted to calculate how much to use. After some preliminary research I thought I'd get two (2) of the Bulk Packs of Dynamat Xtreme, which would cover 72 square feet of body. My plan is to do the underside of the hood (which I'd then cover with Dynamat Hoodliner), then do the firewall as far up as I can reach without completely dissassembling the beast, then do the hump, front floorboards, and front doors. If at this point I have some left, I'll move towards the back of the truck and cover as much as I can.

Do you think 72 sq. ft would be enough? Too little? Too much? This won't be cheap so I'm hoping to get some feedback from those that have already done it.


Also, did you lay the LyTherm Max on top of the Dynamat and under the carpet? Did you replace the original padding on the carpet?

My first goal is to cut down on windnoise by replacing all the dry-rotted and shrunken window and door seals (on the rear passenger door I can actually see light in between the window frame and body when closed), then use the Dynamat to cut down on the 4BT's noise. It's actually not that bad for my taste, but since this is going to be a family long trip rig, I need to make it as comfortable as possible.

Thanks in advance!
 
2 boxes of dynamat extreme did all of my door skins and some of the floor. I used the cheaper stuff from the roofing supply store for the rest of the floor and some other areas like the tailgate. I can't tell the difference and if I had it to do over again I would use the cheap stuff.

I put a second layer of carpet padding down when I had all of the carpet out. I think this made as much or more difference than the dynamat did. Get it from the upolstry supply store. The bottom layer has a heat reflective aluminium foil looking coating on it. I used stainless screws to put all of the trim pieces back in the truck.
 
Exiled said:
Spook50, how much Dynamat did you use? I'm getting ready to start this project on the BTJ62 and wanted to calculate how much to use. After some preliminary research I thought I'd get two (2) of the Bulk Packs of Dynamat Xtreme, which would cover 72 square feet of body. My plan is to do the underside of the hood (which I'd then cover with Dynamat Hoodliner), then do the firewall as far up as I can reach without completely dissassembling the beast, then do the hump, front floorboards, and front doors. If at this point I have some left, I'll move towards the back of the truck and cover as much as I can.

Do you think 72 sq. ft would be enough? Too little? Too much? This won't be cheap so I'm hoping to get some feedback from those that have already done it.


Also, did you lay the LyTherm Max on top of the Dynamat and under the carpet? Did you replace the original padding on the carpet?

My first goal is to cut down on windnoise by replacing all the dry-rotted and shrunken window and door seals (on the rear passenger door I can actually see light in between the window frame and body when closed), then use the Dynamat to cut down on the 4BT's noise. It's actually not that bad for my taste, but since this is going to be a family long trip rig, I need to make it as comfortable as possible.

Thanks in advance!

Two bulk packs of Dynamat Xtreme did my door skins, quarter panels, rear fenders, floor area around the fenders, and left a little to spare. I didn't have enough to cover the transmission humb, but I wouldn't have minded doing that too, had there been enough. I'll use the various small pieces I have left on the recessed parts of the hood between the support beams, and then put a Dynamat hoodliner on that's sitting in my parents' garage.

The old carpet padding came out. A lot of circular motion with a stiff, dry brush pulled most of it up from the tar that's put on the floor in the factory. With the LyTherm carpet padding there, I really don't think any Dynamat is needed on the floor at all.
 
From what I have learned in my research on this, you really need two types of sound deadening materials to cut the most noise. Sound in the cab is caused by two things, vibration and ambient noise.

Products like Dynamat lessen vibrations (and therefore the noise caused by them). According to Dynmat, the sound deadening effectiveness of these kinds of products decreases exponentially after roughly 50 percent of surface coverage. That is, you can dampen something like 85% (I'm making this figure up, but it's a large majority) of the vibrations by covering just half of the surface area of any panel. Anything more than that will help, but only incrementally. So covering just half of your door panel, floor boards, firewall, cargo floor, etc. should eliminate almost all of the vibration-based noise inside the truck.

Padding and foam-type materials, meanwhile, trap ambient noise. There is a good deal of this type of noise in our wagons, so a layer of padding or foam should really help lessen the noise a lot. You should ideally put a layer of foam on the side panels as well as the floor, with an adhesive spray or similar.

Tim
88 fj62 TLCA
 
Very interesting theory...
 
Rig of Mortis said:
I came across this link a while back, however I have yet to use this product.

http://edesignaudio.com/category.php?type=damp

I'm going to try a bed liner type product (Herculiner), either a roll on or a spray in, this will go over top of the POR 15 I've applied already.

Good luck.


I was going to suggest bedliner as well. Thats what I'm planning to do (floor and inside of panels) with the POR 15 too.
 
Keep it coming, all good input. One thing I have noticed - most products compare themselves against Dynamat, interesting. I'm leaning towards Dynamat on the floor and doors w/carpet padding on the floors and some thicker stuff on the inside fire wall. Like I said - everything is out of the cab.
 
Spook50 said:
I've got the before readings already, and lemme tell ya, it's alot louder than most of us think. We're just used to the noise :doh:


just out of curiosity, what sort of sound levels were you getting in your rig?

Thanks
 
Cascade Cruiser said:
just out of curiosity, what sort of sound levels were you getting in your rig?

Thanks

Pretty loud. My highest was on dry pavement, accelerating from 0-25 MPH and the average was 102db. Keep in mind though that I run a 50 series Flowmaster and have no catalytic convertors, so I'm somewhat louder (though not much exhaust-wise) than a stock 62. I took the readings holding the sound meter just in front of my console, facing forward.

Once I can find my sheet with all my readings I'll post the rest up.
 
One question... Are products like DynaMat prone to holding water/moisture? Just wondering about inside the rear quarters and doors if moisture could get trapped and lead to rusting any faster?
 
yes. Rust is what has me worried as well. I REALLY want to get some sound dampening installed as I'm on bumpy roads all day, so with squeeks, rattles, and then the regular old noise of a 2H... it would be nice to tame the noise some.

What is the material referred to at the roofing store? I haven't been able to find any specialty products for sound nearby, but we do have roofing supplies.
 
I ran Timoss's theory by a buddy who has a custom auto stereo store & he said it's basically right unless you get into competition, then they Dynamat everything. He also said Dynamat Extreme is the best.

If you want the most bang for the (least) buck, he said to put a sheet of Extreme on the door or fender panel behind each speaker. That's all you need. Also, add foam baffles to all speakers not in enclosures.
 

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