Sound dampener/heat insulators

[Willard]

I put this stuff in my 60 Soffseal Sound Deadeners INSUL1

I chose this as I also did the same stuff when I redid my Chevelle It was inexpensive and I wanted something that would deaden the noise and heat well.
With dual 3" exhaust tucked up tight and long tub headers my Chevelle never got warm enough inside or on the floor for me to worry. It cut the noise (as much as you can expect from something like that) and worked real well.

When I did the carpet on my 60 I used this though out. Due to it being fabric I did make sure my floor was clean and sealed (also pained the whole floor with POR 15 first after the rust repair.
2 packs cover the whole floor with ease.

While I am still rebuilding my 60, I have zero doubts this will work fine. For the areas where I wanted it to stick (around curves etc.) I used a little spray on glue so I could pull it up if ever needed.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I put this stuff in my 60 Soffseal Sound Deadeners INSUL1

I chose this as I also did the same stuff when I redid my Chevelle It was inexpensive and I wanted something that would deaden the noise and heat well.
With dual 3" exhaust tucked up tight and long tub headers my Chevelle never got warm enough inside or on the floor for me to worry. It cut the noise (as much as you can expect from something like that) and worked real well.

When I did the carpet on my 60 I used this though out. Due to it being fabric I did make sure my floor was clean and sealed (also pained the whole floor with POR 15 first after the rust repair.
2 packs cover the whole floor with ease.

While I am still rebuilding my 60, I have zero doubts this will work fine. For the areas where I wanted it to stick (around curves etc.) I used a little spray on glue so I could pull it up if ever needed.

Basically like the jute? I already ordered 5 yards Jute at $5.50 each. Bought extra for the hump ect.

 

[Willard]

Basically like the jute? I already ordered 5 yards Jute at $5.50 each. Bought extra for the hump ect.

Yep cheap and works.

 

[g-man]

I used eastwoods on my Torino. When from sounding like i was in a tin can to ...nice and quiet. It's like dynamat but not quite as thick or heavy or pricey. No need for jute if you go this route but is prob a bit more $. Make sure you have no holes in the floor as the butyl rubber will melt and drip on a 95 degree day.

 

[Infinity00]

Do you have more pictures? That looks amazing. I’ve started to do mine, but it doesn’t look that nice

 

[Infinity00]

I put this stuff in my 60 Soffseal Sound Deadeners INSUL1

I chose this as I also did the same stuff when I redid my Chevelle It was inexpensive and I wanted something that would deaden the noise and heat well.
With dual 3" exhaust tucked up tight and long tub headers my Chevelle never got warm enough inside or on the floor for me to worry. It cut the noise (as much as you can expect from something like that) and worked real well.

When I did the carpet on my 60 I used this though out. Due to it being fabric I did make sure my floor was clean and sealed (also pained the whole floor with POR 15 first after the rust repair.
2 packs cover the whole floor with ease.

While I am still rebuilding my 60, I have zero doubts this will work fine. For the areas where I wanted it to stick (around curves etc.) I used a little spray on glue so I could pull it up if ever needed.

Great info here. I might try this stuff too.

Great thread Felicity and just in time for spring in Colorado - my carpet kit from fellow mudder has been riding around in the back of my cruiser in a heap. Terrible I know. The dog thinks it’s part of her dog bed. Time to pull it out and finish the job now that it’s starting to get nice here, not to rub it in or anything!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I thought it would be worthwhile seeing as everything was pretty scattered and you guys know me... photo queen. I’ve got a bunch of pics as I’m going along of the dry ice clean up. I’m not welding... (yes, I’m cheap and cutting corners) and going fairly well. Two holes trimmed, sealed and patched so far even w/ my cheap battery operated drill.

 

[Jaric00n]

Doing good there ~~~~

 

[g-man]

Do you have more pictures? That looks amazing. I’ve started to do mine, but it doesn’t look that nice

PM sent. Didn't want to hi-jack the thread.

 

[Willard]

I thought it would be worthwhile seeing as everything was pretty scattered and you guys know me... photo queen. I’ve got a bunch of pics as I’m going along of the dry ice clean up. I’m not welding... (yes, I’m cheap and cutting corners) and going fairly well. Two holes trimmed, sealed and patched so far even w/ my cheap battery operated drill.

What are you using for sealant? While I welded much of my floor there were spot that i could not due to the way the PO oiled the chassis.
I did not want to remove it and I caught fire several times before I stopped and patched. I used the pop rivet method and used this as a bonding agent.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEW4MI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did a test on a piece of metal before I used this stuff and ya, not coming apart...
I think any Epoxy type sealant will work.

 

[Comet]

F,

I just threw down some of the foil bubble wrap from the big box stores. It has served me well in the 80 series and I don't see why it won't help a little bit in Buster. I doubled the transmission hump as most have eluded in other posts. I will know how well it works next weekend.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@Willard, it’s seam sealer from Napa.
And @Comet, some guy tried that bubble wrap in his truck and it did squat. 80 prob has a different thickness of metal... cuz it’s newer is my thinking but I could be way off.
Stopping for now. I cleaned up the rust to shiny metal, patched the whole stretch of rust holes and added a healthy layer (did the underside of each patch too) of more sealer around the edges and secured them w/ self drilling metal screws.
I got the idea of using a template so the patches would fit over the floor boards from a guy on Facebook who rebuilt the floor of his 40. Luckily had a stretch of wood the right side and eyeballed the rise and falls and pounded them in w/ a soft mallet. Worked pretty damn good.
More snow again tonight and tmrw. I’m so done w/ winter.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

And piss... the entire time I was doing all that work I was a good shadetree hack and wore my PPE until I was cleaning up.
Picking up the cardboard from under the truck to dump the dust and bed liner chips into a bucket I had my face guard off and dust flew up. I felt something go in my eye and like a typical stubborn nurse I ignored it. Tried flushing it after cleanup and still felt something. Upon inspection w/ flashlight held sideways about 30 mins ago I could see two black specks in the sclera about twelve o’clock. And because we’re expecting 10+ inches tonight and tmrw... here I sit at the emergency walk-in. Crap crap.
Lesson learned. Keep the eye gear on till completely done w/ work.

 

[Infinity00]

That sucks. Hope the e-room visit is quickly over and you are AOK. Wishing you well, you did the right thing by going in asap

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It’s all good. Doc was able to get it out. By the time I got there one must have washed out w/ the drops I’d added. Thank you!

 

[87CRUSR]

I used: 1st layer Cruisercrap and doubled up around the transmission hump. 2nd layer Jute, 3rd layer carpet. Used CC on the door skins and rear panels and tailgate. Pleased with the results.

Hope your eye is ok.

 

[Aloha Jen]

@Willard, it’s seam sealer from Napa.
And @Comet, some guy tried that bubble wrap in his truck and it did squat. 80 prob has a different thickness of metal... cuz it’s newer is my thinking but I could be way off.
View attachment 1652610

The reflective bubble wrap shouldn’t do much of anything for sound. But should work for what it’s designed to do, which is reflect heat and insulate from heat/cold. At least that what it says on the box it comes in for wrapping home water heaters. And in my case, it worked very well at doing it’s job. That was laid directly on the metal in my 60. The sound deadening for me came from additional layers of materiel. On top of the reflective bubble foil, went a thick high density foam pad, followed by a layer of jute and then the carpet. I guess you could add in the rubber weathertech like floor mats I have in the front and back seats as well.

I am certainly no acoustic sound scientist, but I can definitely tell you that my formerly very hot and very loud diesel 60 series is extremely quiet inside now. Also, the crazy amount of heat coming off the transmission hump and fire wall has been dramatically decreased. To me, all the layers makes sense and seem to be working very well for both heat and sound. The beauty is that it could all be removed tomorrow and returned to factory condition. Easy to check on any water intrusion and to see if rust is developing. Seems like it would be a lot more difficult to check on rust if any sticky backed stuff was stuck all over the floor. But that’s just me, the thinking was more long term since the plan is to keep the 60 for a very long time. An added bonus was that all the materials to accomplish this cost less then $100, so a very minimal investment overall.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Thanks for piping in. That does sound like a wise plan... that it’s easily removed. Did you leave the bed liner intact? And is the added foam plus jute a tad bulky under the carpet? Your carpet looks perfect. Had you bought a new kit which allowed a bit of extra around the edges for the added layering?

 

[Aloha Jen]

Thanks for piping in. That does sound like a wise plan... that it’s easily removed. Did you leave the bed liner intact? And is the added foam plus jute a tad bulky under the carpet? Your carpet looks perfect. Had you bought a new kit which allowed a bit of extra around the edges for the added layering?

By bed liner, do you mean the factory sound deadener stuff attached to the floor? If so, yes, it was left in place. There didn’t appear to be any rust around the edges of it and still seemed in decent shape doing what it was supposed to do from the factory, so the decision was made to leave it in place.

And yes, the added thickness from the bubble wrap, pad, and jute makes it very bulky under the carpet. But it’s hardly noticeable and the carpet still laid down where it was suppose to, and the edges still fit under all the trim pieces. The bulkiest part was where the rear cargo area metal trim piece attached to the body and holds the carpet firm. There is a noticeable bulky lip there, but you would have to look pretty hard to see it.

One added bonus to the extra bulk is that it’s very comfortable to lay down in the cargo area. I haven’t camped back there yet, but I bet it would be very comfy to sleep back there.

The carpet was in there when I bought it. I don’t know if it was the original, but it was old, dirty and disgusting. It was soaked in the bathtub overnight with some oxyclean washing powder. Then cleaned with a foaming carpet cleaner/deodorizer. Thouroughly rinsed, then hung to dry out completely for a couple days. It cleaned up great and looks really good in there now, smells good too!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Cool. That’s helpful. Your beginning to sway me a tad toward the bubble wrap and the non committal option. The foam appears to have the name Tagget & Hall Odorban on it. Something you ordered or picked up local? Do you know what ounce Jute you laid down?