some purchase help

[Ali FJ80]

Looking at picking up a 08 LX570 for the wife to replace the 470 and found a very clean 08 with all records and overall good shape. Water pump just done etc and all prior maintenance at the dealer from new.

Inspection found when the rear camera was activated that there small three small red circles with a slash through them on the lower section of the screen. The next time it was started up there was a small orange triangle lit up with the exclamation point in it.

Dealer is looking at it and I guess they have bumper off and are replacing sensors. Was not possible to hook up my techstream to read any codes unfortunately.

The cd/dvd will not eject and seems to be jammed. Nav and the rest work and that is also going to get looked at.

Also the brakes felt a little soft considering it had new pads etc all in the last 10k miles or so. Not sure if thats just how the 200 is being heavy as it is as it the only one I have driven and comparing to a 100 with all new rotors/pads. Asked them to bleed the system to see.

Am still thinking if all of these are resolved that I am probably going to buy it but wanted to see what you guys think being more experienced with these as I may be overlooking something obvios?

Thanks for any help/insight as am on the hunt for one.
Ali

 

[FinallyGotOne!]

Not sure about your warning lights but my 570's brakes are very soft compared to my 470's. Just bought it a month ago and have been considering bleeding the brakes. I'll be interested to read if your dealer bleeding the brakes tighten them up some. Good luck

Sent from my XT1254

 

[Romer]

My 200 brakes are soft compared to my 100. I have to catch myself as i let pressure of the brake and it starts to move where the 100 would not

 

[Ali FJ80]

Thanks guys. Good to know the brakes seem to be normal. That was a worry.

 

[Markuson]

My 200 brakes are soft compared to my 100. I have to catch myself as i let pressure of the brake and it starts to move where the 100 would not

Speaking of brake sensitivity...

-If it hasn't happened to you yet...slam the brakes on super hard...and feel the Cruiser instantly pull you seat belt VERY tight. The first time this happened, I wasn't aware of the feature and it was a little startling. It's actually quite smart and impressive. In an impact, you want your belts TIGHT.

I mention it because it makes me wonder if that partly why the brakes require a bit more pressure than older models...so that, perhaps, this feature is not triggered too easily...?? Just a thought. But this same thought leads me to believe that the brakes are as "sensitive" as they were designed to be.

 

[M1911]

Speaking of brake sensitivity...

-If it hasn't happened to you yet...slam the brakes on super hard...and feel the Cruiser instantly pull you seat belt VERY tight. The first time this happened, I wasn't aware of the feature and it was a little startling. It's actually quite smart and impressive. In an impact, you want your belts TIGHT.

I mention it because it makes me wonder if that partly why the brakes require a bit more pressure than older models...so that, perhaps, this feature is not triggered too easily...?? Just a thought. But this same thought leads me to believe that the brakes are as "sensitive" as they were designed to be.

Actually, the brake assist feature is triggered by the speed with which you depress the brakes, not the force.

This was developed by Mercedes, who found that during emergencies many drivers did not depress the brake pedal with enough force, but that they did depress the brake pedal quickly. So if you press the brake pedal very quickly, the braking system assumes that you want emergency braking and the brake assist system applies additional braking power.


Sent from my iPad

 

[FinallyGotOne!]

Actually, the brake assist feature is triggered by the speed with which you depress the brakes, not the force.

This was developed by Mercedes, who found that during emergencies many drivers did not depress the brake pedal with enough force, but that they did depress the brake pedal quickly. So if you press the brake pedal very quickly, the braking system assumes that you want emergency braking and the brake assist system applies additional braking power.


Sent from my iPad

I was surprised by both of these features a couple of weeks ago while looking for an address. I was only going about 15 mph, but I pressed the brakes sharply so I wouldn't miss the driveway and BOTH the brake assist and the pre-tensioner fired. My 570's pedal feel isn't as tight as my 470's, but that truck will stop damn quick!

 

[mark71]

Yeah, they are both great features. Scared the crap out of my wife when I did something similar and then she started wailing about how hard it squeezed her. Definitely sucks you tight into the seat.

 

[Markuson]

Yeah, they are both great features. Scared the crap out of my wife when I did something similar and then she started wailing about how hard it squeezed her. Definitely sucks you tight into the seat.

Ya...in a real accident...she'll be glad for that super-tight adjustment for sure... Most belts are worn so loose that people still slam their head/neck against the roof in a roll-over....but this system really does pull it tight as you say. Pretty impressive.

 

[Ali FJ80]

So still waiting on issues to be resolved but did find another one but in Chicago. Looks great from on top but have asked for pictures of the undercarriage. I know they use road salt in Chicago so should I even bother considering one that has lived there its whole life?

 

[luke27617]

So still waiting on issues to be resolved but did find another one but in Chicago. Looks great from on top but have asked for pictures of the undercarriage. I know they use road salt in Chicago so should I even bother considering one that has lived there its whole life?

I lived in Chicago. Stay away from vehicles with history of winter salt states. I had 4runner before and after three winters started to corrode from below and as well even in places where no direct salt started to have problems. As an example I was removing engine cover and both bolts broke off when trying to unscrew. I live in NC now. For sure search south. Transport is not that expensive. I have moved a car from Miami to NC for $450. As well I have flew and made a day trip on the way back (couple days for you . I would consider from up north only if planning to keep it relatively short time and you are getting a deal of century so when you sell depreciation will be lower. I have a very good luck bringing cars from Florida with a low millage.

 

[JamesC]

I lived in Chicago. Stay away from vehicles with history of winter salt states. I had 4runner before and after three winters started to corrode from below and as well even in places where no direct salt started to have problems. As an example I was removing engine cover and both bolts broke off when trying to unscrew. I live in NC now. For sure search south. Transport is not that expensive. I have moved a car from Miami to NC for $450. As well I have flew and made a day trip on the way back (couple days for you . I would consider from up north only if planning to keep it relatively short time and you are getting a deal of century so when you sell depreciation will be lower. I have a very good luck bringing cars from Florida with a low millage.

If you did still want to consider it perhaps ask them to send pics of the welds around the tow hitch asembly, lower arms and hmm @arich I think we've read your preventative maintenance posts for the 200 on this subject - what locations should they request photos of to see the extent of the impact?

 

[Ali FJ80]

Thanks guys. Found a couple of nice ones in Texas and Florida but the does not want black or burgundy, only silver or white. Talked to the Chicago dealer this morning and they promised to send pictures of the undercarriage right over, has been four hours now so am guessing they looked under realized it would be a lost cause and wrote me off. Probably for the best anyway.

 

[M1911]

I lived in Chicago. Stay away from vehicles with history of winter salt states. I had 4runner before and after three winters started to corrode from below and as well even in places where no direct salt started to have problems. As an example I was removing engine cover and both bolts broke off when trying to unscrew. I live in NC now. For sure search south. Transport is not that expensive. I have moved a car from Miami to NC for $450. As well I have flew and made a day trip on the way back (couple days for you . I would consider from up north only if planning to keep it relatively short time and you are getting a deal of century so when you sell depreciation will be lower. I have a very good luck bringing cars from Florida with a low millage.

I live in Boston and I take my SUV on the beach for two weeks each summer. I bought my '03 4Runner new. In 2014, Toyota paid for most of the replacement of my frame. The frame cross-member under the transmission on the 4th gen 4Runner is a box-section. By 2014, my frame cross-member was effectively a u-section. That is, the bottom plate of that cross member was gone. Not rusty. Not rusty with some holes in it. But gone.

Other parts on that truck lost to rust were: transmission cooler lines, steering hard lines, intermediate steering shaft (U-joint was rusted), drivers-side running board support brackets, metal surrounding moon-roof.

You don't want to buy a vehicle that the rust worm has gotten to.

 

[JamesC]

If you need help around the Dallas area (or Mexico city at the moment if you are shopping up armoured LOL) I'm happy to help. I myself wouldn't hesitate to ask this group if someone was near by and was able to have a look once you find a possibility.

 

[kevinfoutch]

What, if any, would be an acceptable level of rust? For example, @arich recently wrote up a 'what did you do this week' segment on clearing rust from skid plates with a healthy coat of rustoleum. Made me take a look, and sure enough several of the holes on the skid plates had a bit of rust myself. My 2011 was sold & lived in St. Louis before I bought it last fall and drove it to Denver. I'd say St. Louis has a fair amount of salting during the winter from when I used to live there, and we know Denver certainly does.

So, if no salt is an ideal state, and completely disintegrated / absent pieces is clearly a no-go, would any of you have any rule of thumb as to what a humble DIY'er could mitigate versus 'run for the hills' kind of advice? I realize skid plates are on the easier end of the spectrum, I'd have no trouble buying again if that was the only location of rust.

Also, before I found my 2011, I'll tell you I found a few older LC's from the Gulf States, including FL, and they must have sat in a Katrina salt bath because they had rust coming all the way up into the seat belt harness bolts that I could see in between the rear seat cushions! Just don't assume any one area is salt free.

 

[arich]

I get under my truck with a wire brush and a can of rustoleum primer and a can of gloss black as a matter of habit every few months as weather allows.
I've been doing it for 15 years with my Land Cruisers so it's habit.