semlin
curmudgeon
ok, so here's a stab at a h/g aftermath post ... i hesitate to post this because i am still not 100% sure I'm done but the truck seems to run well so here goes...
first off, this job was a 4 -5
very challenging but in the end apparently doable for a mechanically challenged guy like me.
here are my top tips. these are strictly supplemental to doug's excellent video and the FSM...
do's
-remove the entire air cleaner canister assembly and maf - you can then sit in the truck or stand on the frame rail and work which was more comfy for me than the board method for a lot of jobs (with a tool table against the fender you can reach for item as you need them). just be sure to disconnect the oil pressure sender harness down low towards the front where it crosses the frame rail or your feet might do it for you.
-on a 93/94, you can get enough room to easily move the exhaust pipes out of the way to remove the exhaust manifold even with studs on if you remove the two bolts holding the exhaust bracket behind the cats and loosen the two 14mm bolts attaching the upper exhaust bracket to the tranny (do not take them off or you will regret it)
-get 8/10/12/14/17mm gear wrenches (sears sells a set with all of them). I used 'em all and they were invaluable. if you don't get a set, get 12, 14, 17, 10, 8 in that order.
-when compiling a parts list consider replacing the following: alt brushes, starter contacts, fuel filter, fuel pump regulator, fan clutch, new hoses, plus clean the fuel injectors...
-use anti-seize on the bushings to help get the alternator back on its bracket and also on the adjusting bolt into the block so it is easy to set the tension.
-if you replace the fan clutch loosen the clutch nuts before you remove the alternator so you have belt friction to work with
-buy the correct female torx sockets for the studs on the egr valve, intake and exhaust manifold. it is most important for the exhaust manifold. remove as many old studs as you can as it make the removal and install easier.
-buy new egr/ intake/exhaust manifold studs. chances are you will strip some getting them out.
-if you replace the fuel filter remember the trick of cutting the mounting hole inboard to the motor into a slot so it is easier to mount.
-go to a kenworth dealer or similar for heat wrap for the wiring harness. they have big rolls of the stuff and did not charge me to cut more than i needed.
don'ts
-do not leave the egr pipe on the head any more than you have to and try not to use it as a handle when removing the head. my pipe got very slightly bent I guess because refitting the egr valve was a nightmare (I have done this job before and it was nowhere near this bad).
-do not forget to attach the bolt that holds the PHH pipe bracket to the rear of the bottom intake manifold before you attach the manifold. there is no way to do it later i can find. i think you have to leave the phh clamps untightened to do this then tighten them after you attach the manifold.
-to refit the fuel inlet line from fuel filter to rail I would get the fuel filter end barely started before I fit the intake manifold then work on the rail. again be very careful handling this metal line. I don't know how I bent it but I must have done because reinstalling it was awful.
-don't let the power steering reservoir just hang anywhere or it will tip over and dump its contents on the ground. hang it up on something
-as noted above, do not remove the upper exhaust bracket bolts that go into the tranny. just loosen them.
-do not attempt this outside on the street in a temperate rain forest in february and march when you and your kids are super busy on the weekends
first off, this job was a 4 -5
very challenging but in the end apparently doable for a mechanically challenged guy like me.here are my top tips. these are strictly supplemental to doug's excellent video and the FSM...
do's
-remove the entire air cleaner canister assembly and maf - you can then sit in the truck or stand on the frame rail and work which was more comfy for me than the board method for a lot of jobs (with a tool table against the fender you can reach for item as you need them). just be sure to disconnect the oil pressure sender harness down low towards the front where it crosses the frame rail or your feet might do it for you.
-on a 93/94, you can get enough room to easily move the exhaust pipes out of the way to remove the exhaust manifold even with studs on if you remove the two bolts holding the exhaust bracket behind the cats and loosen the two 14mm bolts attaching the upper exhaust bracket to the tranny (do not take them off or you will regret it)
-get 8/10/12/14/17mm gear wrenches (sears sells a set with all of them). I used 'em all and they were invaluable. if you don't get a set, get 12, 14, 17, 10, 8 in that order.
-when compiling a parts list consider replacing the following: alt brushes, starter contacts, fuel filter, fuel pump regulator, fan clutch, new hoses, plus clean the fuel injectors...
-use anti-seize on the bushings to help get the alternator back on its bracket and also on the adjusting bolt into the block so it is easy to set the tension.
-if you replace the fan clutch loosen the clutch nuts before you remove the alternator so you have belt friction to work with
-buy the correct female torx sockets for the studs on the egr valve, intake and exhaust manifold. it is most important for the exhaust manifold. remove as many old studs as you can as it make the removal and install easier.
-buy new egr/ intake/exhaust manifold studs. chances are you will strip some getting them out.
-if you replace the fuel filter remember the trick of cutting the mounting hole inboard to the motor into a slot so it is easier to mount.
-go to a kenworth dealer or similar for heat wrap for the wiring harness. they have big rolls of the stuff and did not charge me to cut more than i needed.
don'ts
-do not leave the egr pipe on the head any more than you have to and try not to use it as a handle when removing the head. my pipe got very slightly bent I guess because refitting the egr valve was a nightmare (I have done this job before and it was nowhere near this bad).
-do not forget to attach the bolt that holds the PHH pipe bracket to the rear of the bottom intake manifold before you attach the manifold. there is no way to do it later i can find. i think you have to leave the phh clamps untightened to do this then tighten them after you attach the manifold.
-to refit the fuel inlet line from fuel filter to rail I would get the fuel filter end barely started before I fit the intake manifold then work on the rail. again be very careful handling this metal line. I don't know how I bent it but I must have done because reinstalling it was awful.
-don't let the power steering reservoir just hang anywhere or it will tip over and dump its contents on the ground. hang it up on something
-as noted above, do not remove the upper exhaust bracket bolts that go into the tranny. just loosen them.
-do not attempt this outside on the street in a temperate rain forest in february and march when you and your kids are super busy on the weekends
i never got more than one day a weekend on it and got rained or sleeted out several times.
