(SOLVED!) 2004 Lexus LX470 Brake Failure (I'm getting sick of this lol) (1 Viewer)

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TL; DR at the end but please read the whole story because TL;DR doesn't cover it well.

I think this is the car's retribution for installing used and/or refurbished parts on it. This is a spin-off from another issue i'm having: New year, new problems. 2004 LX470 is a rolling pogo stick. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-year-new-problems-2004-lx470-is-a-rolling-pogo-stick.1275979/#post-14306406.

Anyway, both front AHC accumulators (globes) on the car are toast and the car is a rolling pogo stick, going over bumps at any sort of speed results in the front oscillating like a wild bull. So, we (my dad and I) were coming home, going down the highway, and as my amazing luck would have it, I hit a bump at full speed and the front of the car went slightly airborne TWICE (you could literally hear the front tires screeching as they touched down lol) and we felt the mother of all oscillations and I hit the brakes as there was some traffic up ahead. As we entered the traffic, the car's horrible "brake failure" constant BEEEEEEEEEP started sounding. And the brakes seemed fine at first, now it must be noted that we are rolling slowly, my foot constantly on the pedal. The car up ahead comes to a stop and I press the pedal down a little to stop the car and it just keeps rolling, the "brake failure" constant BEEEEEEEEP is still sounding throughout the interior of the car and I literally stomp on the pedal and come to a rolling stop (as opposed to a screeching stop) and I damn near had a heart attack.

So I stomp on the pedal and the car comes to a stop and then there is some sort of vibrating/grinding/whining sound coming from behind the brake pedal (but in the engine bay), and then the brake pedal literally fricking rises up from the floor (because I am essentially standing on it), pushing my leg upward, and then when the pedal comes up, and the car has stopped, and the brakes feel to be working normally again, the vibrating/grinding/whining sound stopped. Anyway, eventually the beeping stops on its own and normal braking returns except that when the brake pedal is depressed and I turn the steering wheel, there is a harsh, not too audible, grinding sound and the vibration from that can be felt in the brake pedal (different from the earlier mentioned vibrating/grinding/whining noise).

Soooooo, we stop on the way home to grab a bite, we enter our car and resume on our no-longer-merry way and as we get into our neighborhood and hit some bad sections of road, the car is being real bumpy and jumpy, the "brake failure" constant BEEEEEP returned, and every single time the car is jumping up and down and I go to press the brake pedal, it's super stiff and I have to force it down, and then it goes down and the car stops, cue a loud vibrating/grinding/whining noise and the brake pedal rises back up. Sus.

Also, there are fluid droplets (or most probably melted grease from a crappy and refurbished CV Axle) sparingly lining the driver side wheel well. I don't think it's brake fluid because if it was, the rim would be coated in it, however, the rim is noticeably dry while the wheel well (literally all around the travel path of the tire and some other select areas) has droplets of fluid (which again I highly suspect to be melted grease from a trash CV Axle). Also worth noting that same fluid was sighted on CV Axle boot (the boot on the side farther away from the wheel).

TL; DR: Failed accumulators and poor visibility due to nighttime cause LX470 front end to go airborne on the highway, brake failure ensues. Brake doesn't work when car is bouncing like a pogo stick and makes a vibrating/grinding/whining noise when it does work. Pretty sure the car hates me but ok :/

Constant "brake failure" BEEEEEP just in case:
 
My gut wants to say you're just at the age and mileage where both the brake booster and AHC globes need attention. But, with the amount of bouncing you're describing, it may be worth double checking that the flexible rubber brake hoses haven't developed any leaks from being flexed repeatedly that much. Check brake fluid level in the reservoir after repeatedly depressing the pedal 40 times with the key off, it should then show at the max line.
 
My gut wants to say you're just at the age and mileage where both the brake booster and AHC globes need attention. But, with the amount of bouncing you're describing, it may be worth double checking that the flexible rubber brake hoses haven't developed any leaks from being flexed repeatedly that much. Check brake fluid level in the reservoir after repeatedly depressing the pedal 40 times with the key off, it should then show at the max line.
I have inspected the rubber brake hoses (at least on the front driver side) and they check out ok. Will check brake fluid in the morning. Globes most definitely need attention and we're looking at a 1 month+ wait time to get new globes from Japan. Fingers crossed that the brake booster hasn't also imploded.
 
I would probably stop driving it if you haven’t lol.

Sounds like the brakes are obviously toast.
 
I would probably stop driving it if you haven’t lol.

Sounds like the brakes are obviously toast.
Crazy thing is that when they're working, they're working, then when the beeping sound is doing it's thing, they still work but you have to really step on the pedal for them to kick in. Maybe some sort of brake assist malfunction?
 
Crazy thing is that when they're working, they're working, then when the beeping sound is doing it's thing, they still work but you have to really step on the pedal for them to kick in. Maybe some sort of brake assist malfunction?
It’s well documented here.

Your brake MC failed. Sometimes it’ll work. Sometimes it won’t. No assisted brakes. And the constant beeping. Basically, you should troubleshoot, and see what part failed. Could be an easy repair, or an expensive R&R
 
It’s well documented here.

Your brake MC failed. Sometimes it’ll work. Sometimes it won’t. No assisted brakes. And the constant beeping. Basically, you should troubleshoot, and see what part failed. Could be an easy repair, or an expensive R&R
Bruh. What's crazy about all this is that we were returning home from the dealer after trying to buy the accumulators and now we have a potential master cylinder failure on our hands. :bang::flush:
 
How do you know it's the globes and not your front ride height sensors? Have you run Techstream?
 
How do you know it's the globes and not your front ride height sensors? Have you run Techstream?
I haven't run techstream (because I don't have the obd II dongle) but given how the car is super bouncy over bumps and potholes I would strongly argue that it is the globes. The one thing I am still waiting to try is the pencil test.
 
I haven't run techstream (because I don't have the obd II dongle) but given how the car is super bouncy over bumps and potholes I would strongly argue that it is the globes. The one thing I am still waiting to try is the pencil test.

It's very wise to get Techstream before spending money on anything else, especially with AHC. It's about $25 for the cable and the software is free.

My '07 had the same symptoms you describe and it was the sensors.
 
It's very wise to get Techstream before spending money on anything else, especially with AHC. It's about $25 for the cable and the software is free.

My '07 had the same symptoms you describe and it was the sensors.
Thanks, will keep in mind.
 
Any reason why your AHC is sitting in LOW?
It always does that after driving for a few. Stop the car and start it back up and it will be in N mode but will default to Low after driving for a few feet or so.
 
My gut wants to say you're just at the age and mileage where both the brake booster and AHC globes need attention. But, with the amount of bouncing you're describing, it may be worth double checking that the flexible rubber brake hoses haven't developed any leaks from being flexed repeatedly that much. Check brake fluid level in the reservoir after repeatedly depressing the pedal 40 times with the key off, it should then show at the max line.
I checked the brake fluid as you suggested. I took a pic of the fluid level before and after.
Here is the fluid before:
IMG_20220216_074644_598.jpg

Here is the fluid after pressing the brake pedal 40 times:
IMG_20220216_074810_053.jpg

I have no idea why the fluid is suddenly this low to begin with, last night was the first time driving it in 3 days and the fluid level was just under the max line before that.
Important to note that the pedal did not feel as stiff as it usually has before now (I'm talking before we had any brake issues). And during the first few pumps, the pedal got stiff (like it should), then I pressed it down and there was some sort of resistance (like there was a rock in the master cylinder or something) and then after that the pedal was just soft for the rest of the pumps. :(
 
It always does that after driving for a few. Stop the car and start it back up and it will be in N mode but will default to Low after driving for a few feet or so.
And what sort of speeds are you driving at whilst it’s in L?
 
your fluid level is so low you've probably introduced air into the system, and you will have very poor pedal feel and performance until you bleed the system
 
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your fluid level is so low you've probably introduced air into the system, and you will have very poor pedal feel and performance until you bleed the system
Update on this actually. Turns out the brakes on the rear right tire was missing one pad and the other pad was worn down bald. The brake caliper piston seal for the rear right tire was also leaking af and the piston itself was ready to fall out due to the missing pad. Replaced the seal, replaced the pads, looking to replace the disc. Topped up on brake fluid and bled the system. Started the car and it was still acting funny like last night. Brake failure Beeeeep was still going crazy, you press the brakes and it works normally sometimes, then you go to press it again and it's stiff with barely any stopping power then you press the pedal down again and the brake catches and pushes the pedal back up. Oddly enough, I let the car sit for a few mins at idle and in park. Got in, put it in drive, and it was like an immediate calm after a fricking stormy night. Circa 100 miles later and brakes feeling solid and on point. Idk if I'll edit the title to include SOLVED!! but lemme not jinx anything lol.
 
Yikes! Any damage to the piston from the missing pad? Now you have two uses for techstream, to check out your AHC pressures, and to trigger the ABS bleeding procedure, there's probably still some air in the system and it might take a couple more tries to get it all out.
 
Yikes! Any damage to the piston from the missing pad? Now you have two uses for techstream, to check out your AHC pressures, and to trigger the ABS bleeding procedure, there's probably still some air in the system and it might take a couple more tries to get it all out.
Fortunately the piston is intact. I'm looking to buy a USB-OBD II dongle later this year when I (finally) graduate highschool. Can I buy just any dongle or does it have to meet specific requirements outside of being obd 2 to USB?
 
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