Solar Generator vs Dual Battery Setup (or both?) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Heritage 2020

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 6, 2022
Threads
41
Messages
263
Location
TN & MT, USA
Greetings,

Having just replaced the battery in the family HE after a camping trip which drained the original battery due to my stupidity—would like thoughts from others regarding options for our upcoming trip out due West to Montana with NPS stops (summer home).

Options:

1. We have a gas Honda generator which is excellent, but noisy as one would imagine. Wife prefers not making a lot of racket even if we aren’t camping near anyone.

2. Dual battery (Slee tray with a deep cycle battery). I already have a Viair compressor (with tank) under the hood mounted where a second battery might go, so wondering if I can run a second battery in the rear of the LC vs under hood?

3. Solar generator such as this one (photo attached). The advantage is that we could use this with our other trucks/RV vs just the Land Cruiser.

We aren’t leaving until after Memorial Day, so just figuring it all out for now. Appreciate the inputs in advance.

64BE596B-3693-4346-9199-F60B2F8A34B4.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I think solar is the way to go. It’s very versatile and easy to use. A system like you linked to should provide adequate power for camping needs. I use only a 100 watt portable panel when camping with my trailer and I’ve never run out of power. I do have 1200 Wh of battery capacity, which is more than the Ecoflow. Your best bet is to research an appropriate solar system for your needs between now and Memorial Day rather than debating a second battery.
 
I think it comes down to what you're trying to power and how you're going to use it.

What caused you to discharge the starter batt in your original trip? That might drive part of the answer.

I personally like the portable battery and solar panel combination as that affords the most flexibility. Once you dial in what and how you like to camp, a more tailored permanent battery solution can be devised.

I used a portable Goal Zero 1000 for several years. If there's cons for this type, is that they take more space than it would seem at first blush. Need to protect the plugs and connectors from all the other stuff shifting around especially if used while actively offroad. Powering a fridge for example.

My house battery install was more to streamline and improve space utilization. My primary need is to power an onboard fridge, charge USB devices, cell booster, and diesel heater. I have no need for inverter/120V power.

I keep a portable 100W solar panel but it's the rare case I stay in one place long enough to need it to provide more reserve. It has connectors to charge my house or starter battery.

 
I agree. Dual battery is a commitment, though I think it makes sense in some cases. In my case, we carry two portable battery packs (both ~500wh). They are small enough and give us a lot of flexibility. We can run the fridge off of one while the other charges. We can swap when needed. When we camp, we keep one in the truck to run the fridge and use the other to charge electronics, run lights, etc. We have a 100w fold-up panel that does a pretty good job of keeping them charged, though I think we may eventually upgrade to a little higher capacity panel. Up to this point we haven't needed it. We have been out for 5 days with no issues.

The great thing about a portable is that, as you say, you can use it in other vehicles and also at home. And while I have seen some pretty nice dual setups, I have also seen some that have required some care and feeding. With both of our portables though, we have never had to do anything. They just sit until we need them.
 
Last edited:
My factory Toyota battery was 3 yrs old (pre-owned vehicle thus I don’t know the battery history), and I believe the portable fridge and liberal use of the compressor with the engine off did it in. Basically my stupidity.

I was able to jump it using my portable power pack and made it back just fine, but it failed the load test at my last oil change. I decided to start with a brand new battery and use some brains moving forward.
 
I did both a dual battery AND a solar generator. A solar generator can't jump start the engine but a second battery can. The 2nd battery can't supply 120VAC (without an inverter thrown in there somewhere*) but the solar generator can.
I just added the passenger side connectors prior to our last trip a month ago and it worked out very well. I was able to power all kinds of things like cell phones, lights and even the Dometic CFX75DZ when we disconnected it from the Yeti 1500X.

I posted about the new passenger side connectors earlier here: What have you done to your 200 Series this week? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-200-series-this-week.818471/page-788#post-14828907

Below is my current concept. We don't always use everything all at once but the schematic hopefully illustrates the flexibility.

* I may get an inverter to attach to the 2nd battery and also a regulator like a Victron 12-12/30 so that any DC supplied by the 2nd battery is regulated. We'll see LOL!

Overall concept:
Electrical concept.jpg

Latest addition to the passenger side. The connector is from Powerwerx and the female cig is a NOCO.
20230209_103025-491x654.jpg


20230209_103104-491x654.jpg
 
Thank you. I learn something new every time I visit and appreciate the inputs from all.

I’m 99% going with a nice solar generator setup and keep my single battery. The dual battery won’t really help my bonehead moments and may be more trouble than worth.

When we camp, we always bring two fully charged portable jump starters (Noco and Duralast) for “just in case”—which will cover a run down truck battery.

The solar generator will take care of the fridge and other doodads.

Again, much appreciated.
 
I've got a hybrid setup in mine. It's a dual battery setup, but in a portable tool box that lives in the trunk behind the fridge and has a solar charge controller attached.

I wanted a solar generator, but also the ability to charge via alternator. You can't do that with prebuilt solar generators.

So i built a lithium battery box, mounted a 20 amp DCDC charger next to it and threw a solar panel up on the roof.

I need mine to be portable because it powers my diesel heater in the winter and some other things. If you don't need portability, definitely go the dual battery route.

IMG_5462.JPG
 
I've got a hybrid setup in mine. It's a dual battery setup, but in a portable tool box that lives in the trunk behind the fridge and has a solar charge controller attached.

I wanted a solar generator, but also the ability to charge via alternator. You can't do that with prebuilt solar generators.

So i built a lithium battery box, mounted a 20 amp DCDC charger next to it and threw a solar panel up on the roof.

I need mine to be portable because it powers my diesel heater in the winter and some other things. If you don't need portability, definitely go the dual battery route.

View attachment 3303109
I can't speak for all solar generators but a Yeti by Goal zero can charge from the alternator 3 ways:
  1. Using their cigarette lighter car kit it will charge at the rate of 120W*
  2. Using their vehicle integration kit, approximately 600W. **
Neither of these were available when I purchased my Yeti 1500X or I would have bought their 600W car kit.
3. Doing what I did which was using a Victron Orion Smart DC-DC charger 12-24/30 which substitutes for their vehicle integration kit and will charge it at the rate of 380W.​
REF:
* Yeti 12V Car Charging Cable - https://www.goalzero.com/collections/vehicle-accessories/products/yeti-12v-car-charging-cable
** Yeti Link Vehicle Integration Kit - https://www.goalzero.com/collections/vehicle-accessories/products/yeti-link-vehicle-integration-kit

EDIT: correction I used a Victron Orion Smart DC-DC charger 12-24/15.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone use portable 12v battery set up?
 
Last edited:
I have been reading up on this and has many advantages in my view. Only drawback is weight.
It is a very economical solution. Can also be connected to main battery if need be with cutoff switch.
 
Screenshots_2023-04-20-19-17-06.png
 
I've successfully used the EcoFlow products, and you can usually get a deal on them at Costco every other month. I would buy a big battery vs. a small battery + solar panels, as those panels take up a lot of room.

I'm usually on the move, so the car tops off the battery. The panels might make more sense if you're a stationary camper.

Gas is a non-starter. Too messy and loud. And I didn't want to take on the expense of a dual-battery setup.
 
I have a cheapy LiFePo solar charger and it has worked really well for me. I'm probably going to get something with a bit more capacity.

Check out this video. Very informative.
 
I run a solar panel on my rack with two eco flow batteries inside (Delta mini and a river pro) running a 55L fridge, travel oven and an AC socket with USB and USBC that is installed on my drawer system and accessible from the tailgate for cooking and whatnot. I'm able to run an induction burner and an espresso machine from the AC plugs (not simultaneously) with the delta mini. Both batteries are charged off DC sockets in the rear in addition to the solar panel that will keep them charging when I'm stopped. As I also sometimes run an RTT that covers the panel, I pack 2 100amp solar briefcases that plug into the same Anderson connector that the rooftop would plug into. I intend to install a flexible panel on my RTT so I don't have to worry about bringing the additional solar.

BTW, I really like the new anker 760 - too pricey right now though and I'm perfectly happy with the two eco flows that I got on steep discounts.

Overall, I find the setup to be super flexible - particularly b/c I have always charged generators that I can use for a variety of purposes inside and outside of my cruiser
 
Last edited:
I think its important to somehow figure out your power needs regarding what kind of power your drawing from running things. Honestly though the portable solar generator is probably going to win. I have dual batteries in my 80 series and that part I like is the ability to self jump start, but honestly that's a feature I rarely even use and hope to never have to use. Another plus is that its all automatic with its charging and isolating and its out of the way under the hood.

Either way I'd find some way to incorporate a solar panel. My dad and I will camp out at the beach and run the fridge all weekend and his CPAP during the evenings. During the day I have a 100w suitcase style panel to recharge and it has kept up for the most part. A cloudy day would have me running an extension cord to some shore power at night. Sort of wish I had gone with the 200w panel instead.
My biggest takeaway is that if you can get solar going in some way then you can reduce the size of any battery system slightly.

A 100w panel and a small MPPT solar controller like this one on amazon would even work to keep your main battery charged if you decided to not even go dual battery or Solar generator Amazon product ASIN B09W5YCRR7
 
A 100w panel and a small MPPT solar controller like this one on amazon would even work to keep your main battery charged if you decided to not even go dual battery or Solar generator Amazon product ASIN B09W5YCRR7

I have this charge controller and keep it in the zipper pocket of my portable panel. I also have a couple dongles that can adapt the SAE to Andersons or alligator clips. With this setup, there's literally no battery chemistry or type I can't charge with solar. I've used it with the FLA starter battery, Lithium Goal Zero solar generator, LifePO4 house battery, travel trailer LifePO4 battery, or friend cars. It's a great flexible setup.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom