With SBC 350, 700r4 and SO my front drive shaft did bind as Randy88FJ62 suggests above. I clearanced the yokes of the driveshaft to eliminate the bind. Can't comment about high speed 4wd vibrations as I have not had need for using it yet.
I just bought the truck and the soa is already done. I know about the rear having no caster because it is fixed. I just don't understand the difference of rewelding the spring plates and c&t being different. Is it the binding that would be caused. Lets say i just leave it how it is. soa, cv driveshaft. would this hurt articulation or cause something to break. How hard would it have to be wheeled in order to due damage. Or is it just the vibration factor in 4wheel drive at higher speeds. I know my 4runner had some BAD angles in the front but it seems the cv joint flexed enough so it wasn't a issue. It had about 8" lift.
I just bought the truck and the soa is already done. I know about the rear having no caster because it is fixed. I just don't understand the difference of rewelding the spring plates and c&t being different. Is it the binding that would be caused. Lets say i just leave it how it is. soa, cv driveshaft. would this hurt articulation or cause something to break. How hard would it have to be wheeled in order to due damage. Or is it just the vibration factor in 4wheel drive at higher speeds. I know my 4runner had some BAD angles in the front but it seems the cv joint flexed enough so it wasn't a issue. It had about 8" lift.
I'm getting the idea you don't understand the caster/steering thing, and that it is independent of the pinion angle. For your safety and that of every one around you on the road, get your caster measured at a tire shop and post the number here with a picture of the truck's front end. If caster is normal, it's safe (at least in that respect) to drive. If the pinion was rotated up and there was no cut and turn, then your caster will be way off, and the truck will tend to wander at speed, follow grooves in the road and be darty and unstable under heavy braking.
It's ALWAYS a good idea to get the rig up in the air. let the suspension drop all the way and check for stuff binding up. I have had to take drivelines back to the shop after I found that they would bind. The shop swore that they wouldn't, but the proof is in the pudding. Toyota yokes can tolerate more angle without mods than anything domestic and they are plenty strong.
I just bought the truck and the soa is already done. I know about the rear having no caster because it is fixed. I just don't understand the difference of rewelding the spring plates and c&t being different. Is it the binding that would be caused. Lets say i just leave it how it is. soa, cv driveshaft. would this hurt articulation or cause something to break. How hard would it have to be wheeled in order to due damage. Or is it just the vibration factor in 4wheel drive at higher speeds. I know my 4runner had some BAD angles in the front but it seems the cv joint flexed enough so it wasn't a issue. It had about 8" lift.
Ok, caster is only applicable to steering, so there is no such thing as caster on a rear axle. Caster is the axis on which the knuckles pivot from side to side. You can draw a line through the center of both of the knuckle bearings, determine variation from vertical and you have your caster angle. On a Cruiser that axis tilts towards the front, this is positive caster. Caster needs to prevail over pinion angle as a matter of safety and drivability. Once the caster has been set to it's proper angle, the pinion angle might not be ideal, so you cut the axle and rotate the center part with the differential housing to the desired angle and reweld it, thus achieving the proper caster and pinion angle at the same time. As I said, caster is critical, so set that first. If your rig drives fine in four high without chopping your axle, forget about it. If it shakes like crazy you might want to do a cut and turn, but I've gotten away without it for a very long time with just the CV joint.
If your rig drives fine in four high without chopping your axle, forget about it. If it shakes like crazy you might want to do a cut and turn, but I've gotten away without it for a very long time with just the CV joint.
The main reason to cnt is to get the necessary clearance so that your U joints don't bind. CV is an ancilary step. If you need to point the pinion up at the tcase to aleviate U-joint bind, then you need a CV shaft at the same time. If your setup has a long enough DS to not need a cnt, then the CV is not necessary..
It can run straight down the road perfectly and still bind the crap out of the u joints during articulation.
So isn't it ok just to put some money into a nice flexible and longer driveshaft. This is what i did on the 4runner and it worked. shakes in 4x4 high on the road but oh well. No bind in the trail.
The main reason to cnt is to get the necessary clearance so that your U joints don't bind. CV is an ancilary step. If you need to point the pinion up at the tcase to aleviate U-joint bind, then you need a CV shaft at the same time. If your setup has a long enough DS to not need a cnt, then the CV is not necessary..
It can run straight down the road perfectly and still bind the **** out of the u joints during articulation.
So isn't it ok just to put some money into a nice flexible and longer driveshaft. This is what i did on the 4runner and it worked. shakes in 4x4 high on the road but oh well. No bind in the trail.
Shake isn't just an annoyance. It indicates significant vibration that is putting lots of abnormal wear on the driveshaft splines & joints and on the transfer case and diff flange bearings... not parts you really want to be trashing...
From the pictures it looks like the caster-angle is way off... you need a cut and turn.. I bet if you run your car on a road with deep grooves and cambers it has a tendency to "climb" up and steer for you!?
If you are running big or bigger wheels i believe you want maximum toe-in and maximum +caster (within the specs)
From the pictures it looks like the caster-angle is way off... you need a cut and turn.. I bet if you run your car on a road with deep grooves and cambers it has a tendency to "climb" up and steer for you!?
If you are running big or bigger wheels i believe you want maximum toe-in and maximum +caster (within the specs)
yeah what pics? i will post pics when i get the truck. which will be in a month due to me being in brazil. \damn is it hot! compard to 10 degrees at home. \you guys should see all of the turbo diesel toyotas down here. brand new. models i didn´t even now exsisted. very cool!