Soa or OME (1 Viewer)

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I have a 1985 fj60 that I have been fixing up lately, and I'm ready to finish it up and would like some advice. I have been limited in what I can do by lack of a garage I just bought a house so now I can finally get some work done after i close in a couple of weeks. My question is what will ride/flex better, OME or SOA. The truck now has a 2in bl 2 1/2 " over stock shackles and aals. Honestly it rides pretty good right now and flexes like crazy but I want another two inches or so in case I want 35s as i'll need tires in a few thousand miles . I don't mind the body lift because it keeps the cg down. I've heard nothing but good things about ome but I was wondering does it ride better than SOA? or is it the other way around? How about flex?

one other question. Is there a write up anywhere for four linking the rear? I'd be interested in four linking the rear and soa on the front if its been done.
 
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If you want to run 35s (w/ minimal rub) AND want FLEX, SOA all the way.
 
Go here and see if there is a set up you like, and go from there.

x2 SOA :D
 
Very generally speaking, OME= better daily driver, SOA= better wheeler. So with that, we need you to answer as to what your plans for the rig are.
If you go spring over, I'd ditch the body lift.
 
go soa and don't look back. the worst thing I did was to try and get 5" of lift on sua $1400 wasted on a suspension I could have spent on a nice soa set up.

stock springs on a soa truck and 35's will get you great ride, great flex and really looks sharp.

clint
 
SOA is the way to go if you have the skills to do it right.
OME if not.
 
Call me nuts...

I have SOA riding on OME springs. On the rear I fabricated all my own brackets including spring perches to bring the springs as close to the frame as possible and the spring perch on the axle is just barely thick enough to accomodate the alignment pin on the spring. On the front, I sleeved the frame for the upper shackle mount (the shackels are on the rear of the spring, not the front) and made my own front mounting brackets. Otherwise, it would just be too high. The stock springs on mine were absolute crap and could not be used. The OME springs are far better overall than the stockers. One thing you need to consider when doing an SOA is you better know how to weld. You will need some serious tweeking of the steering system, either a high-steer conversion or some other fabricated deal of your own making.
 
...I have been limited in what I can do by lack of a garage I just bought a house so now I can finally get some work done after i close in a couple of weeks...

Have you measured your new garage door opening to make sure a high riding 60 will fit? :D
 
Have you measured your new garage door opening to make sure a high riding 60 will fit? :D

I know that would be a problem for me. I'd be airing down every time just to be able to open and close the garage door.
 
OMEs with SOA

If this works, and it's my third try, there will be an attached picture of my 60 with SOA on OME springs.
P1010005.JPG
 
I daily drove my 60 SOA for 5 years (from 99 to 2005) & it drove nice, but ate stock springs. Every time I swapped out to newer stock springs I would add custom cut leaves from the old pack making a bigger pack. This made them last longer, but still not long enough. The last incarnation of springs are more than 2x thicker than stock and should hold up real well and still softer than my old OME's. I had OME mediums, on one of my 60's about 6 years ago & hated them, they were way too stiff and did not add much lift. It's said that if they are de-arched they work real well for SOA, but I have no experience with this.

If you want a reasonable wheeler but a fairly maintenance free suspension system, I'd go with 4" alcans or another quality spring. If you want a flexy rig that rides really well and wheel great, then go SOA, but do it right (Cut & turn, sawybar links, good shocks, reinforced springs, new bushings, high steer, anti-wrap bar, etc..), that should eliminate most problems experienced with a spring over.
 
SOA x 3
Best mod I did. The COG is a bit to get used to, but you ultimately DO get used to it and begin to learn the boudries.
Youll NEVER get the flex SUA that you will SOA, and youll still be FOREVER catching the spring packs SUA.
I agree with Wile though, if its a full time DD that you use to do fire trails once or twice a year, then the SOA may be a bit much.
Mine is a wheeler only, so it was pretty much the BEST option for me.
Being able to weld is KEY ,also as stated above, unless you have a friend at your beckon call.

Chicago
 
If you go over 4" you may need a hysteer sysytem even if you are SUA. 4x4 labs makes the SUA kits. Research some and see what you come up with 35's seem to be the cut off.
 
Are you planning to regear? If not, ditch the idea of going with 35" tires. If you are going to drive mainly on roads and moderate trails go OME and 31" - 33" tires. This is a nice workable combination. If you want the 'rock hopper' look, go nuts.
 
SOA

Wow thanks for all the replies.
this truck has been alot of fun so far getting everything going and this site is very helpful. I'll have to get some pictures after the carpet is finsihed of a before picture if I decide to go for it.

I never thought about it fitting in the garage I really should check that. I have RV Gate and a decent yard but I would like to keep it garaged as the AZ sun does nasty things to interiors and paint.

As far as welding I'm not to bad but for the serious parts my father in law was a welder for a long time so I'll most likely ask for some help to do the critical parts if I go with the SOA.

I wheel it pretty hard as is with the thirty threes but got into some rocks lately and was really annoyed hitting the spring perches.

I really am looking for the smoothest ride and a nice clean look. I don't have to drive it every day but would like it built like a dd. I think i'm leaning more towards as low as possible soa. My springs have aals in them. I saw proffits sells a kit, the only part I don't understand to well is the drive shaft modifiactions. What does this entail?

As for steering seems like hysteer is the way to go. I'll just order a high steer kit with the new rods and be done.

One last question. Proabably towards the end of summer This truck will get a v8. If done right will this be safe at 85 on the freeway? and will it tow ok with the softer suspension? Nothing to heavy at most a 12' trailer with a couple dirtbikes and a quad.
 
No worries if you happen to have an 8 ft door. It'd be close if you added a rack, or a properly installed cb antenna.
Springs soft enough to wheel like a champ, (SOA likely then) plus towing at 85?? I'll have to leave that one up to the folks with actual experience. However, my worthless < 1 cent opinion on this is that offroad flex and towing ability are inversely proportional in the context of a typical home garage monkey's abilities.
 

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