SOA/Histeer dreaming

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jtrock26

jtrock26

Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Threads
15
Messages
153
Location
Silver Bay, MN
Hello knights. Been doing some research here on histeer, etc. Just looking into some options and costs involved. I see that 4x4 labs is definitely well respected, so I will definitely be contacting them on parts for a histeer system. What I'm wondering is:What kind of $ am I gonna need to make this combination? I see that most of the 4x4lab kits are $550, but I'm wondering what it will cost for the SOA as well? I currently have a setup for power steering from a 1991 4Runner and dont really want to spend a lot of money on a Sag or Scout system. I see that I definitely want to at least update to minitruck or FJ60/62 knuckles, so there is that. Am I crazy or is this something that will end up costing me over $2-3K? I will be doing the majority of the labor, so there shouldn't be a huge expense for that, I would just like some input on what you guys have done, spent, chosen to do? Thanks for your help!
 
I also should add for those who don't know what I'm looking for here: I will not be doing any hardcore wheeling with this, it will be a daily driver that I just want to be capable in off-road situations. I don't need anything extreme for strength, so I'm looking for opinions on what I actually need to have a safe, successful transition from stock to a better clearing ride height and power steering. Thanks
 
to me a hysteer kit is a hysteer kit. it puts the steering links up out of the way for your soa. guys like the 4x4 labs stuff cus your hiding your tie rod behind. less stuff to smash I guess.

i think you should be able to get this done for 1500 or so.

350-soa housing
299-hysteer
100-knuckles
150 knuckle rebuild kit
100 brake lines
cromo birfs? 70 each

if your going to keep your steering you have now get an idler rebuild kit.

thats just a quick estimate:D

ill be doing an soa on my 55 soon and I like to keep things "cost efective" :P
 
crawlin cruiser said:
to me a hysteer kit is a hysteer kit. it puts the steering links up out of the way for your soa. guys like the 4x4 labs stuff cus your hiding your tie rod behind. less stuff to smash I guess.

i think you should be able to get this done for 1500 or so.

350-soa housing
299-hysteer
100-knuckles
150 knuckle rebuild kit
100 brake lines
cromo birfs? 70 each

if your going to keep your steering you have now get an idler rebuild kit.

thats just a quick estimate:D

ill be doing an soa on my 55 soon and I like to keep things "cost efective" :P
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Excuse my ignorance, but what are Cromo birfs? Obviously birfields? but what kind, etc? Thanks!
 
JTRock26,

I would say that you are going to be pretty close to your $2-3k mark.

I would go to Profitt for a cut and turned housing. Get the new knuckles and high steer from them while your at it.

That will probably be close to $1k

Rebuild kit and Longfield kit - $750

Good idea to do an antiwrap bar too if your SOA in the rear - maybe $200

And the misc stuff that comes up as you go.

You will save yourself a lot of money by doing the work! And you will get to see every part of your truck!

Ryan.
 
scottryana said:
JTRock26,

I would say that you are going to be pretty close to your $2-3k mark.

I would go to Profitt for a cut and turned housing. Get the new knuckles and high steer from them while your at it.

That will probably be close to $1k

Rebuild kit and Longfield kit - $750

Good idea to do an antiwrap bar too if your SOA in the rear - maybe $200

And the misc stuff that comes up as you go.

You will save yourself a lot of money by doing the work! And you will get to see every part of your truck!

Ryan.
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I may have to start selling lots of blood or other bodily fluids! I cant control myself from Wanting all these things for my cruiser! lol. I especially want to do as much as I can while it is in pieces, because I don't want to have it like this numerous times! But then again, if I don't stop expanding what I want to do, it will never be on the road again! Thanks for the input Ryan! Oh, and BTW, my name is Justin.:D
 
Lil'John said:
Given your modest wheeling goals, you could get away with crossover steering only: stock steering arm on driver side and a double arm on the passenger side. If you know a competent welder, you can weld a pair of stock steering arms together.
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do not make a "double steering arm":mad:

hysteer is cheap these days and welding steering components is illegal:rolleyes:
 
Good points John,

I just assume that with the 6.0L if he does wheel, it won't take much to break the stock birfs. Absolutely an antiwrap bar will be needed, or else you will be seeing broken pinions.

I know it is expensive, but in my mind it is better to spend a little up front then have to do it twice, and possibly end up broken on the trail or on the road.

The cut and turn is debatable and could save you quite a bit of money, but I can just go off of what other people say since I have never driven a 40 or 55 with an SOA and an axle that hasn't been cut and turned, but my buddy Jon, has a 40 and didn't do it and he has such bad death wobble that he can't drive it round the neighborhood. He is looking at doing it now or doing a hydraulic assist. Added money and complexity that I think he could have avoided, since the C&T has been perfected by Profitt.

But I will tell you one thing, it won't be the last time you do/redo something on your 55 and hindsight is always 20/20! My truck and pocketbook can vouch for that. Haha!!

Ryan.

Lil'John said:
chromo birfs are one of the many upgraded versions out there.

Given your "modest" wheeling goals, I wouldn't waste the money on it yet.

Your drivetrain may... or may not require screwing around with turning the front pinion(ie cut and turn requirement)

I will say this upfront and brutally to the point: don't waste your money on Dodge spring perches. They absolutely amplify any axle wrap you may experience. Spend $30-$40 on a longer set of spring perches like you might get from Ruff stuff.

To give you an idea of how bad a small perch will amplify axle wrap, I've got stock small perches on my Dana 60 front. These are roughly the same size as the Dodge perches. Just tightening up the pinion nut, I was able to cause axle wrap.:eek:

Given your modest wheeling goals, you could get away with crossover steering only: stock steering arm on driver side and a double arm on the passenger side. If you know a competent welder, you can weld a pair of stock steering arms together.

I won't go doom and gloom over small bolt pattern knuckles for $60ish, you can get a stock set of the large pattern ones. And most companies only offer hi-steer/crossover arms for the large pattern ones.

Antiwrap bar with 6.0l is pretty much a must especially with soft springs. But another word of advice, use as much "bracing" for the bracket on the axle housing. Using a pair of edge mount only brackets can rip the housing apart. Look through my build thread and find where I did the axle wrap bar posts. THAT has plenty of "bracing".
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Lil'John said:
And a properly welded double arm will be as good as if not better than some of the hi-steer arms out there... for example some of the arms with pressed in bearing "pins":rolleyes:
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Hijack:

What hysteer arms dont have press in pins? every set I have seen have pressed in pins.

Check marlins 25mm pin upgrade with bigger bearings. Not entirely new arms. just new bearings and pins.


Back on Track:
I would just settle with a 4" lift, rather than an SOA for a daily driver I wanted to wheel from time to time. SOA on stock old springs gets pretty mushy with lots of body sway.

focus on FJ60 power steering, 4 wheel discs, etc.
 
GREAT point! If you're not sold on the SOA, you could do custom 4" lift springs from Alcan, keep it sprung under and avoid some of the problems, like a lot of axlewrap. There might also be some of the 4" kits floating around for sale, even though they were really 2.5" springs with longer shackles.

A SOA will give about 5-6" of lift and is really pretty tall for a daily driver.

Ryan.
 
scottryana said:
GREAT point! If you're not sold on the SOA, you could do custom 4" lift springs from Alcan, keep it sprung under and avoid some of the problems, like a lot of axlewrap. There might also be some of the 4" kits floating around for sale, even though they were really 2.5" springs with longer shackles.

A SOA will give about 5-6" of lift and is really pretty tall for a daily driver.

Ryan.
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These lift kits require new shocks etc.? I have Rancho 5000's that are hardly used and would hate to replace them already, but maybe I'm just being cheap haha
 
Hey Justin,

I know what you are thinking trying to reuse your new shocks, but a spring over is pretty flexy, I do think that your shocks would be the limiting factor. I know I had to sell a set of Billstein 7150's when I ended up having to do coilovers instead of a spring over.

I think Cruiser Brett is right on the money with this one. If you want a wheeler, do the SOA, if you want your truck a little taller, to drive around town, out on dirt roads and to take camping, I would do a 4" SUA lift using good springs.

This is just my opinion now that I have a completely over built truck for just driving around. It would have been nice to keep it a little more mild. haha.

Ryan.
 
scottryana said:
Hey Justin,

I know what you are thinking trying to reuse your new shocks, but a spring over is pretty flexy, I do think that your shocks would be the limiting factor. I know I had to sell a set of Billstein 7150's when I ended up having to do coilovers instead of a spring over.

I think Cruiser Brett is right on the money with this one. If you want a wheeler, do the SOA, if you want your truck a little taller, to drive around town, out on dirt roads and to take camping, I would do a 4" SUA lift using good springs.
Ryan.
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This is just my opinion now that I have a completely over built truck for just driving around. It would have been nice to keep it a little more mild. haha.
Thanks Ryan. In one of my sleepless moments last night I finally made some decisions. I'm going to stay SUA for now. I don't know if I will pursue new springs or not at this point. I'm going to build a rotisserie and get rid of the rust on the body, rebuild the main body mounts, etc. Do some work on the interior, paint it, get it back on the road with the new drive-train, and..... DRIVE IT! I will worry about all the other upgrades later or I will have bitten off way too much financially. I appreciate all the help and ideas from everybody on here. Without them I would definitely be lost!:beer:
 
Awesome!

Can't wait to see it out on the road! Better to have a 55 to drive around and have fun in then to have it in the shop for years! :-)

Ryan.


jtrock26 said:
This is just my opinion now that I have a completely over built truck for just driving around. It would have been nice to keep it a little more mild. haha.
Thanks Ryan. In one of my sleepless moments last night I finally made some decisions. I'm going to stay SUA for now. I don't know if I will pursue new springs or not at this point. I'm going to build a rotisserie and get rid of the rust on the body, rebuild the main body mounts, etc. Do some work on the interior, paint it, get it back on the road with the new drive-train, and..... DRIVE IT! I will worry about all the other upgrades later or I will have bitten off way too much financially. I appreciate all the help and ideas from everybody on here. Without them I would definitely be lost!:beer:
Click to expand...
 
I know a guy selling a cut and turn front axle and a rear SOA set up with a professionally done anti-wrap. I think he's a super-mod or something on this board. ;)

You want to definitely go with a late model big stud knuckle, especially with a 4x4 labs. 6 shooters would be even better.

Can't beat superlongs, but they are spendy if you're trying to keep costs down.

If you look at the "biggest mistake" thread in hard core, there are an awful lot of guys who regret spending the big money on lift springs only to ditch them later for a SOA.
 
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