SOA fj60 pulls to the left. (1 Viewer)

BlueCruiser84

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I sprung my 60 over a while ago and (due to lack of funds/time) I have finally started to drive it. Drives great and is very stable.

With the spring over I did a cut and turn, installed new hi steer which consisted of drag link/ends, tie rod/ends, and a pitman arm. I rebuilt the front end with new bearings and seals and put on 35s. Before the spring over I had no issues,

My issue is that it has an incredibly strong pull to the left when I am driving straight.

That is to say I cannot drive in a straight line without a hand firmly on the wheel. If I hold the steering wheel straight the vehicle drives straight. If I let go of the steering wheel it rotates and the vehicle pulls sharply left.

--Could this be caster related? ie. I did the cut and turn wrong? I don't think I did, I put a level on it about 20 times, but I guess it could have happened.

--If I put the pitman arm on incorrectly would it pull like this? It points straight ahead when the wheels point straight ahead. Would the sector shaft want to return to center... or something like that?

--Would a sticking hub on the driver side cause something like this?

--The brake caliper does not get hot so I do not think it is dragging.

--I have checked and rechecked tire pressure so I am pretty sure that isn't the cause.

Any ideas?

Aaanndd here is a shot of the truck, not that it has anything to do with the problem, but, aye, who doesn't like pictures?

 
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GLTHFJ60

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Did you replace the pitman arm? If so, did you make sure it was centered?

Is there a lot of play in your steering wheel?

Did you set the preload for the trunion and wheel bearings to be the same on both sides?

Is the tire pressure the same in both tires?

Is the road that you drive on rutted or sloped at a side angle?

Did you check your caster after assembling your front axle?
 

BlueCruiser84

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Did you replace the pitman arm? If so, did you make sure it was centered?

That is the part I think (hoping) I may have overlooked. I need to pull the pitman back off and line everything up again.

Is there a lot of play in your steering wheel?

I don't know what "a lot" is, but it wasn't enough that I noticed.

Did you set the preload for the trunion and wheel bearings to be the same on both sides?

I set them using a fish scale. Probably a hair tighter than spec, but nothing excessive. When I put the front on stands and spin the tires by hand they take roughly the same amount of force per the same amount of rotation.

Is the tire pressure the same in both tires?

Tire pressure is pretty much dead on.

Is the road that you drive on rutted or sloped at a side angle?

I drove about 135 miles on everything from backroads to highways and it never changed.

Did you check your caster after assembling your front axle?

I did not check caster after reassembly. Where are you guys checking the caster after everything is put back together? On top of the knuckle with the steering arm removed?
 

GLTHFJ60

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Did you replace the pitman arm? If so, did you make sure it was centered?

That is the part I think (hoping) I may have overlooked. I need to pull the pitman back off and line everything up again.

Is there a lot of play in your steering wheel?

I don't know what "a lot" is, but it wasn't enough that I noticed.

Did you set the preload for the trunion and wheel bearings to be the same on both sides?

I set them using a fish scale. Probably a hair tighter than spec, but nothing excessive. When I put the front on stands and spin the tires by hand they take roughly the same amount of force per the same amount of rotation.

Is the tire pressure the same in both tires?

Tire pressure is pretty much dead on.

Is the road that you drive on rutted or sloped at a side angle?

I drove about 135 miles on everything from backroads to highways and it never changed.

Did you check your caster after assembling your front axle?

I did not check caster after reassembly. Where are you guys checking the caster after everything is put back together? On top of the knuckle with the steering arm removed?
Play in steering wheel: should not exceed 1.57 inches ( 40mm ).

As for the last point, I did not check mine. CruisinFJ60 had his checked at an alignment shop and his was off. I would assume that you can get an idea by measuring from the top of the studs, assuming they're all screwed in all the way.
 
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I would take it to an alignment shop so you can at least get your real numbers to see how your CnT turned out (Caster and alignment). Another concern is that your axle housing is bent and screwing up your camber (not adjustable on these axles).

Also perhaps the axles are not perpendicular to the frame. Could be driver/ passenger spring perches are not on the axle center line together, front or rear. Ubolts loosen up and need tightening. Definitely check all your nuts and bolts for tightness since you've driven it a little.
 

BlueCruiser84

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Good info. I think the first stop will be to take it to a shop to get the real numbers then go from there.

So the pitman arm being lined up improperly on the sector shaft wouldn't affect the way it drives at all?
 
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It's really your alignment, in particular the caster, that returns your wheel to center when steering so I'd be interested in what the numbers turn out to be. The way I understand it is that a mis-lined pitman arm would just give you more turn to one side rather than a pull to one side and make your steering wheel not centered when going straight.
 

GLTHFJ60

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It's really your alignment, in particular the caster, that returns your wheel to center when steering so I'd be interested in what the numbers turn out to be. The way I understand it is that a mis-lined pitman arm would just give you more turn to one side rather than a pull to one side and make your steering wheel not centered when going straight.
I thought that the steering box would always return to its center regardless of the position of the pitman arm. I can't confirm that with experience but that's what I thought.

Definitely get it on an alignment machine and get the real numbers.
 

BlueCruiser84

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I'm trying to wrap my head around how differing caster from side to side makes it pull to one side. I get why caster makes it return to center, but in my mind when a wheel is pointing straight ahead and the vehicle is moving straight ahead wouldn't the wheel tire combo want to continue moving straight rather than turn? Can someone explain it to me or is it something I just need to accept?

I am really hoping it is the pitman arm alignment....
 
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I thought that the steering box would always return to its center regardless of the position of the pitman arm. I can't confirm that with experience but that's what I thought.
From the reading I've done with a steering box like ours that's not the case. It's the caster/toe/camber combo that returns it to center once we start moving. If not then when we turn our wheel at a stop (forgoing tire friction) and you took your hands off the wheel it would return to center on it's own without the vehicle moving. I've had my front end off the ground when bleeding the system and after the air is gone and the wheels are still off the ground when I turn to one side it stays there. Orbital valves for full hydro can be set up with a return to center and there's that potential with the new electric steering systems.



Really we're just offering multiple ideas. Knowing the real numbers will help to see where the problem could be.
 

GLTHFJ60

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From the reading I've done with a steering box like ours that's not the case. It's the caster/toe/camber combo that returns it to center once we start moving. If not then when we turn our wheel at a stop (forgoing tire friction) and you took your hands off the wheel it would return to center on it's own without the vehicle moving. I've had my front end off the ground when bleeding the system and after the air is gone and the wheels are still off the ground when I turn to one side it stays there. Orbital valves for full hydro can be set up with a return to center and there's that potential with the new electric steering systems.



Really we're just offering multiple ideas. Knowing the real numbers will help to see where the problem could be.
I hadn't thought of it that way, good point Mike.

BlueCruiser84, just did some quick research on the caster issue. It seems that if the caster is not the same on both sides of the axle, then the vehicle will pull to the side that has less positive caster.

Couple of links:
Wheel Alignment A Short Course
A Tutorial on the Camber Caster | eHow.com
Caster, Camber, Toe
 
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It sounds like castor for sure, or really bad tires. Basically the more castor the quicker the wheel returns to center/ the harder it is to turn away from center. really 2-4 degrees is plenty. Anything more than 6 and your tires might start wearing funny. The more you have though the less your tires want to wander so that is why some people add a little when going from 29" tires to 37"s. To much and it will wear your tires funny. So if they arent even they will fight each other hard at anything off center. Basically it throws your steering out of proportion. So it will never align right because your not only pushing the wheels right to left now when turning your moving one of them vertically as well. When driving down almost all roads which have a crown to them your are really never pointing the wheels straight ahead so since your castor is off your toe is wrong and one tire is fighting to get back to center harder than the other. Pretty much like GLTHFJ60 said on which way it will pull.

Really you just need to have it checked at a shop and see how far off it is. Tires will do it as well if they are worn poorly.
 

BlueCruiser84

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Well s***. I was really hoping I wasn't going to have to redo the Cut and turn. I know I need to get my real numbers, but I am betting that is what it is.

Thanks for the links Johnny.
 
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if you did the soa at the same time as the C&T then its possible that either the front or back axle is not centered front to back on one side. This will casue it to pull to one side as well. Think about it if the center to center distance of the front and back axle is not the same side to side it will pull. You could take a tape and go from axle housing to axle housing on each side and check.

Also if you have a back brake dragging more than the other one or a wheel bearing going out ti will cause it to pull.
 
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try cross rotating your front tires,does the pull switch to the other side ? tires can look fine,but have different rolling resistance's. if the pull stays to the same side,get it on an alignment rack!.....rod
 

BlueCruiser84

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if you did the soa at the same time as the C&T then its possible that either the front or back axle is not centered front to back on one side. This will casue it to pull to one side as well. Think about it if the center to center distance of the front and back axle is not the same side to side it will pull. You could take a tape and go from axle housing to axle housing on each side and check.

Also if you have a back brake dragging more than the other one or a wheel bearing going out ti will cause it to pull.

Hadn't thought of the back brake, I'll check that. my bell cranks tend to get stuck. i'll pull a tape on the axles too. Thanks.

try cross rotating your front tires,does the pull switch to the other side ? tires can look fine,but have different rolling resistance's. if the pull stays to the same side,get it on an alignment rack!.....rod
Good Idea.
 
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Had the same issue, but my truck pulled to the right. Took it in to check specs and my caster is off 2 degrees b/w left and right...

botched Cut and turn...:mad:
 
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Picked up a CNT axle set up by proffits, but haven't installed it yet.. I asked here in the past and people have RE cut and turned the axle so that is an option as well..
 

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