The spring perch will also be 1/4 inch to wide as well. They will replace all the rear parts with the chevy conversion kit for no charge if they haven't shipped it yet.
Soa best options?
- Thread starter edgeatom
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The spring perch will also be 1/4 inch to wide as well. They will replace all the rear parts with the chevy conversion kit for no charge if they haven't shipped it yet.
you said and i quote (I'd love to see pics of your $50 springover....) thats a rude comment in itself then to top if off your saying my soa was 50 dollars!!! i was calm and relaxed till i read that! but whatever you do your thing and ill do mine
- Thread starter
- #43
But I was thinking 63 I'n front and rear ? Any thoughts ? Yes dozer king and mace we get it there is a wrong way and a right way to do some things and yes you can cut some cost by making your own parts some of us have the skills and some of us have the ability heck I work In a full blown die and machine shop I could make every part I need and that would be great but the problem for some of us is time so if you guys could help with the out sourcing of good ideas to help me on my build that would be great this is my first land cruiser and yes I want it to be safe on and off the road I am a big fan of the do it right once program but saving money is always a plus
As was said before, running a 63 in spring in the front will make you modify the spring hangers (and frame) significantly.
You can use 14" travel shocks with the front springs and get full extension. Why not just run the stock stuff?
You can use 14" travel shocks with the front springs and get full extension. Why not just run the stock stuff?
past flat point
Do not do 63's in the front you will need to ad a lot of frame to the front of the truck reducing approach angle significantly. Would be much much cheaper and perform getting to fine some decent used 60 front springs or but the rear up front.
I'm also going to caution you on using 63's in the rear as it does make the truck feel unstable on the hwy and in turns. It take lots of tweaking to make them work right and be safe. Also I would not get the 63's or of a 1/2 ton, min I would do on a 60 is 3/4 ton and a long AAL with good shocks valved right.
I'm also going to caution you on using 63's in the rear as it does make the truck feel unstable on the hwy and in turns. It take lots of tweaking to make them work right and be safe. Also I would not get the 63's or of a 1/2 ton, min I would do on a 60 is 3/4 ton and a long AAL with good shocks valved right.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
not my case .. here you can see ( need to take better pic ) my stock front DS ( cut to proper length ) in my SR and SO setup ..
not my case .. here you can see ( need to take better pic ) my stock front DS ( cut to proper length ) in my SR and SO setup ..
Interesting.. Pics of the driveshaft? I have not seen a stock DS not pull apart under full extension with a SR. Most of the time, even with the proper length DS, it'll separate.
I would like to throw another idea in here too. SOA is all well and good but consider the costs and issues to be remedied to do it right. Take a look at my thread on my 60 with a SUA with the Mojave suspension and still have 14" of suspension travel. Really consider the use. Poser rock crawler but really a grocery getter or really going to wheel the rig? Other than the most hard core trails I have yet to be dropped by a SOA rig. I have almost two years on my set up now and zero issues. 
My 60 is still SUA in the rear with just a 2.5" lift. I do not flex that well.
But, I built it to be more of an expedition rig instead of a rock crawler. Course, it'll also do the con this summer so it all depends on what you need the rig to do.
But, I built it to be more of an expedition rig instead of a rock crawler. Course, it'll also do the con this summer so it all depends on what you need the rig to do.
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sorry to cullter up your thread with all the bs from before! so if i were you and money was tight this is what i would do buy a set of chevy springs they are wayyyy cheaper than anything else and the length doesnt matter then take and undo your leaf spring packs take out everything but the mains and cut your new ones to the same length as the old ones i used 63's in the front the main plus 3 more of the 63's in the rear i used the old style and i have six of those in and it set perfectly level this is one way to cut the cost with the money saved you can buy a cross over or double arm steering buy some brake lines and hold off on the shocks till more money comes in! thats one route or you could go with some 63's in the rear sua You will need new spring hangers and shackle hangers i would build your own shackels at 5" or more to match the front whick will have to be soa ruffstuff makes a kit but you will be matching front to rear so i would maybe just buy the hangers if you go with the older chev spring something to be aware of is the bushing eye is 5/8 inch front and the rear 9/16 youll have to build a different plate i think the second way to do it is way more time consuming and drawn out the first way i told you about is a one day deal and in my opion my chevy springs have way alittle bit more flex than my brothers ome springs! hope this helps!
Bryan
- Thread starter
- #53
I picked up the ruffstuff 62 kit the other day waiting on it now I am looking for a good High steer kit and the best front axle rebuild kit .... The option of Staying sua till the winter is looking like a option but changing the springs over before the gsmtr and maybe a aussie locker I'n the front plus ford towers and shocks I think all this things will put me I'n the right direction for the over all goal of the spring over and that would give me time to rebuild some funds for my axle up grade and cut turn
I'd hold off on doing the knuckle rebuild till you do the CNT (if you need to).
You will get more function out of a rear locker than front.
Collect all the parts and do the conversion at once. It'll save you from doing things again.
You will get more function out of a rear locker than front.
Collect all the parts and do the conversion at once. It'll save you from doing things again.
This has been a good one to read
My opinions for the OP:
A SOA conversion, and all of the accompanying upgrades to make the SOA conversion worthwhile, cannot be done inexpensively unless you have all of the parts on hand already.
- For example, shortly after the SOA conversion on my truck, I needed new tires which prompted new wheels. The added flex prompted lockers and steering system needed to be upgraded to push the bigger tires. Next thing was that the inner axle shafts needed to be upgraded to handle the bigger tires, and the list grows from there.
- A SOA in it's bare essentials can be done for not too much $, but I guarantee that once done, you'll find at least another $2k in upgrades that you'll need.
In terms of lockers, Mace is right, put a locker in the rear before the front. For a time I had a front locker before a rear locker and I blew through birfields like they were made of glass. Not a good idea.
As for springs, running longer springs front and rear is a great idea as it gives you tons of more flex. However, the stock springs work perfectly well. I recommend running the stock springs to begin with and then consider upgrading to longer units at some point down the line.
The best piece of advice that I can think of is was to do one modification at a time with plenty of driving time in-between. I cannot tell you how many times I've changed my mind on various projects and modifications after driving, and wheeling, for a while. Don't rush it, there is always more time to build, and rebuild, your truck.
My opinions for the OP:
A SOA conversion, and all of the accompanying upgrades to make the SOA conversion worthwhile, cannot be done inexpensively unless you have all of the parts on hand already.
- For example, shortly after the SOA conversion on my truck, I needed new tires which prompted new wheels. The added flex prompted lockers and steering system needed to be upgraded to push the bigger tires. Next thing was that the inner axle shafts needed to be upgraded to handle the bigger tires, and the list grows from there.
- A SOA in it's bare essentials can be done for not too much $, but I guarantee that once done, you'll find at least another $2k in upgrades that you'll need.
In terms of lockers, Mace is right, put a locker in the rear before the front. For a time I had a front locker before a rear locker and I blew through birfields like they were made of glass. Not a good idea.
As for springs, running longer springs front and rear is a great idea as it gives you tons of more flex. However, the stock springs work perfectly well. I recommend running the stock springs to begin with and then consider upgrading to longer units at some point down the line.
The best piece of advice that I can think of is was to do one modification at a time with plenty of driving time in-between. I cannot tell you how many times I've changed my mind on various projects and modifications after driving, and wheeling, for a while. Don't rush it, there is always more time to build, and rebuild, your truck.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I will today when arrive home .. it took a but of trial and error get it right .. and my front suspension haven't much flex any case ..
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Here is
