Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
the metal one frame attached on pass side .. ?
bypass it and give a shot .. just to make a simple test.
So uh... I got a buttload of dirt in my turbo
- Thread starter joshoisasleep
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the metal one frame attached on pass side .. ?
bypass it and give a shot .. just to make a simple test.
- Thread starter
- #102
All I have with me to bypass it with is a bit of hose (rad hose) and hose clamps... I'm afraid I might introduce more problems trying to do it with this than I'd bypass.
Interesting note - I finally found this morning's air pocket and got rid of it... it was hiding before the filter. It was weird because I was pumping hard at the filter and not even that much fuel was coming out... I was suddenly really worried that I had a major leak somewhere. Even when I had everything tightened down the primer pump would still depress easily all the way to the bottom! I cracked the nut for the hose between the filter and the primer pump... the one at the primer pump, and gave it a few pumps there. In no time at all the pump felt more stiff and when I tightened the nut back up there was almost no movement, and then I gave it a few more pumps at the filter and the IP.
So there's something helpful for future reference... if you have one of the Bosch style primer pumps and you are able to push it down without any nuts undone, you have a significant air pocket somewhere.
Now I just need for my helper to finish doing what she's doing so she can turn the key while I crack the injectors...
Interesting note - I finally found this morning's air pocket and got rid of it... it was hiding before the filter. It was weird because I was pumping hard at the filter and not even that much fuel was coming out... I was suddenly really worried that I had a major leak somewhere. Even when I had everything tightened down the primer pump would still depress easily all the way to the bottom! I cracked the nut for the hose between the filter and the primer pump... the one at the primer pump, and gave it a few pumps there. In no time at all the pump felt more stiff and when I tightened the nut back up there was almost no movement, and then I gave it a few more pumps at the filter and the IP.
So there's something helpful for future reference... if you have one of the Bosch style primer pumps and you are able to push it down without any nuts undone, you have a significant air pocket somewhere.
Now I just need for my helper to finish doing what she's doing so she can turn the key while I crack the injectors...
- Thread starter
- #103
AARGH this is really annoying. My bleeding skills are still inferior, so every time I think I've got it all out and it's time to bleed the injector lines, I guess there's still a little bit leftover further back. The one battery thing is really hindering progress too... the entire day has been spent waiting for the battery to charge so we can crank it and crack the injectors... only to find that once again, there is more surprise air lower down... or something... and then the battery dies again and it's another few hours. I've tried doing the injector lines with the primer pump but it just doesn't seem to do it.
Well now at least my BCAA membership is up to date and I won't be fudging anything if I call them tomorrow... Other than that some truckers were trying to lend a hand just now and they suggested towing it in gear and bleeding it with the engine turning over that way... could be a little sketchy crouched in the engine compartment of a moving vehicle on the highway, wrench in hand!
Well now at least my BCAA membership is up to date and I won't be fudging anything if I call them tomorrow... Other than that some truckers were trying to lend a hand just now and they suggested towing it in gear and bleeding it with the engine turning over that way... could be a little sketchy crouched in the engine compartment of a moving vehicle on the highway, wrench in hand!
It is ironic that I stumbled upon your adventure blog 2 days ago (I never read that section) and now I see this thread.
The priming pump is only to prime everything from the tank feed lines to the injection pump - not the injection pump and the injection lines. Cranking (with or without cracking lines) is definitely needed to get the air out of the rest of the system.
I too am wondering if one of the fuel hoses you have removed for testing/bleading has introduced a small air leak.
Did you say that it still runs a little rough once it is going? You might be getting a few air bubbles during runtime through that leak.
I have heard from several reliable Landcruiser mechanics that you can introduce an air leak that is small enough that air can be pulled in while the feed pump is sucking fuel, but no fuel will visibly leak out when the engine is off. Pressurising the fuel line to look for the air leak still will not find it in many cases. Air will slowly enter the fuel line and drain the fuel back to the tank once you have shut off the engine. This is common when re-installing aged rubber fuel lines.
You might be able to pressure test the line if you can seal / stuff the filler neck with an old bicycle innertube, seal the tank vents and use a bicycle pump to get a few (perhaps 5?) PSI of pressure above the fuel in the tank.
Are your fuel hose clamps those old Toyota wire spring-clip style?
Could the clamps be getting weak?
Perhaps your fuel line is old and hardened with age (I think I know the answer to this)?
Can you see tiny cracks around the hose ends where the hard line is inserted?
Make sure the hard line barbs are really clean and not corroded as air is sure to enter if the hoses are also hardened.
Perhaps you can get some clean grease or petroleum jelly (ie:vaseline) and coat the hard line ends before you put the fuel hoses back on? Clean motor oil might work too. I would be careful NOT to get the grease INSIDE the hard line - just liberally coat around the area the clamp is going to compress and leave at least the last 1/4-inch of line clean so the fuel will never come in contact with it.
You said you didn't have more fuel line but can you get some new, worm gear-style small fuel hose clamps and tighten the heck out of them? At a minimum you could keep the existing spring clamps and wrap several turns of bailing wire around the clamp and twist the wire ends with a pliers to get a tighter clamping action. It would be a slight bother to remove the hose again, but perhaps a much lesser pain than bleeding the system if it fixes the issue.
Another important point: If you have two 12Volt batteries in parallel and one is bad then the bad one is probably draining the good one (even when the ignition is off). You are also diminishing the ability of the alternator to recharge the good battery. Can you just disconnect the bad battery and still start the vehicle?
Another suggestion: Perhaps you can find an inline gasoline electric fuel pump? You could place that before or aft the sedimenter. This would be a stop-gap to reduce the vacuum in the line during runtime (assuming it is running rough) and some of the pumps have a anti-backwash valve to prevent the fuel from draining back to the tank. You just need any pump that can deliver a few PSI. I would be very leery of using a used pump though because of contaminants.
Another cheap/easy suggestion: find a 1/4-inch natural gas petcock valve with barb fittings and place it inline near the sedimenter to prevent the fuel line from draining. When you shut down just get under and close the valve. A ball-valve style would be best so it isn't too stiff to turn.
I know you in a very isolated place during your first fuel-related breakdown, but as you move around perhaps you can find some of these things?
On the least important topic (at least to you, not your girlfriend):
If you did open your A/C lines to make the air pump and you ever want to go back to having A/C then you should also get the entire system flushed out. Flushing is pretty simple: You put in a liquid A/C flush (under $10 US) and run clean, compressed air through to blow out any compressor debris a few times (compressor lines are both removed & metering valve removed when this is done). You also should replace the metering valve (around $20 US) so removing it for the flush is just part of the deal. The rest of everyone's advice still applies: new dryer and vacuum down the system.
If the compressor was making terrible noises (not just belt noise) then it needs a rebuild before installing, hopefully by a professional rebuild shop for new bearings, schraeder valve cores, and a seal kit.
Skimping out on any of the steps above is really silly and can result in destroying the compressor, re-contaminating the system and doing ALL the steps over again...well worth doing right the first time!
I hope some of that helps.
- Eric
The priming pump is only to prime everything from the tank feed lines to the injection pump - not the injection pump and the injection lines. Cranking (with or without cracking lines) is definitely needed to get the air out of the rest of the system.
I too am wondering if one of the fuel hoses you have removed for testing/bleading has introduced a small air leak.
Did you say that it still runs a little rough once it is going? You might be getting a few air bubbles during runtime through that leak.
I have heard from several reliable Landcruiser mechanics that you can introduce an air leak that is small enough that air can be pulled in while the feed pump is sucking fuel, but no fuel will visibly leak out when the engine is off. Pressurising the fuel line to look for the air leak still will not find it in many cases. Air will slowly enter the fuel line and drain the fuel back to the tank once you have shut off the engine. This is common when re-installing aged rubber fuel lines.
You might be able to pressure test the line if you can seal / stuff the filler neck with an old bicycle innertube, seal the tank vents and use a bicycle pump to get a few (perhaps 5?) PSI of pressure above the fuel in the tank.
Are your fuel hose clamps those old Toyota wire spring-clip style?
Could the clamps be getting weak?
Perhaps your fuel line is old and hardened with age (I think I know the answer to this)?
Can you see tiny cracks around the hose ends where the hard line is inserted?
Make sure the hard line barbs are really clean and not corroded as air is sure to enter if the hoses are also hardened.
Perhaps you can get some clean grease or petroleum jelly (ie:vaseline) and coat the hard line ends before you put the fuel hoses back on? Clean motor oil might work too. I would be careful NOT to get the grease INSIDE the hard line - just liberally coat around the area the clamp is going to compress and leave at least the last 1/4-inch of line clean so the fuel will never come in contact with it.
You said you didn't have more fuel line but can you get some new, worm gear-style small fuel hose clamps and tighten the heck out of them? At a minimum you could keep the existing spring clamps and wrap several turns of bailing wire around the clamp and twist the wire ends with a pliers to get a tighter clamping action. It would be a slight bother to remove the hose again, but perhaps a much lesser pain than bleeding the system if it fixes the issue.
Another important point: If you have two 12Volt batteries in parallel and one is bad then the bad one is probably draining the good one (even when the ignition is off). You are also diminishing the ability of the alternator to recharge the good battery. Can you just disconnect the bad battery and still start the vehicle?
Another suggestion: Perhaps you can find an inline gasoline electric fuel pump? You could place that before or aft the sedimenter. This would be a stop-gap to reduce the vacuum in the line during runtime (assuming it is running rough) and some of the pumps have a anti-backwash valve to prevent the fuel from draining back to the tank. You just need any pump that can deliver a few PSI. I would be very leery of using a used pump though because of contaminants.
Another cheap/easy suggestion: find a 1/4-inch natural gas petcock valve with barb fittings and place it inline near the sedimenter to prevent the fuel line from draining. When you shut down just get under and close the valve. A ball-valve style would be best so it isn't too stiff to turn.
I know you in a very isolated place during your first fuel-related breakdown, but as you move around perhaps you can find some of these things?
On the least important topic (at least to you, not your girlfriend):
If you did open your A/C lines to make the air pump and you ever want to go back to having A/C then you should also get the entire system flushed out. Flushing is pretty simple: You put in a liquid A/C flush (under $10 US) and run clean, compressed air through to blow out any compressor debris a few times (compressor lines are both removed & metering valve removed when this is done). You also should replace the metering valve (around $20 US) so removing it for the flush is just part of the deal. The rest of everyone's advice still applies: new dryer and vacuum down the system.
If the compressor was making terrible noises (not just belt noise) then it needs a rebuild before installing, hopefully by a professional rebuild shop for new bearings, schraeder valve cores, and a seal kit.
Skimping out on any of the steps above is really silly and can result in destroying the compressor, re-contaminating the system and doing ALL the steps over again...well worth doing right the first time!
I hope some of that helps.
- Eric
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RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
Did you mention that you changed your primer pump recently? Primer pumps are common sources of overnight air leaks.
- Thread starter
- #106
Wow panoramic monster post full of great advice!
I have no bailing wire, but unless I've lost them I DID stock up at one point with a pile of gear style hose clamps... including I think some tiny ones.
Yes I did. About 1.5 months ago now I replaced my ancient, fuel spitting one for one of the really nice Bosch spring type ones that you don't need to lock down.
Just curious, how did you come across it? Somewhere other than my mud sig?
I was actually suspecting that the incredible hammering it sustained in the desert made worse an already slightly existent one... I have suspected one to possibly be the cause of minor morning issues for some time.
Yes, I HAVE a bicycle pump AND a brand new innertube (don't ask why). Do you know where are the tank vents that I'd need to seal?
Yes the lines are old (the whole truck is!) and the clamps are the wire spring style (at least I'm pretty sure they're the ones you mean).
I have no bailing wire, but unless I've lost them I DID stock up at one point with a pile of gear style hose clamps... including I think some tiny ones.
The bad battery has been disconnected the whole time... I'm pretty sure that's how it went bad. I only discovered it because of these issues. The good battery cranks fine but dies quickly... thus bleeding fuel lines is an all day procedure of recharging the battery and trying again (I'm now glad I bought and didn't just borrow a 10amp charger a few days ago for the first time I needed to recharge it).
The ball valve I can get easily in the next day or two as well. That's not a bad idea at all. That way even if there IS an air leak, it would have to be big enough for fuel would have to exit at the same location and it would be relatively easy to spot. And if it's not that big, the air wouldn't be able to get in if the fuel can't get out.
Yes I did. About 1.5 months ago now I replaced my ancient, fuel spitting one for one of the really nice Bosch spring type ones that you don't need to lock down.
OK, you want to put some heavy, CLEAN grease on those hose fitting that you removed to try to seal them. Even chapstick, lip-balm or something thick might work PLUS using some new clamps. Just using a new clamp of a different shape might help since you are compressing a different, thicker part of the rubber.
No sure of your exact year/model. There is usually some venting inside the cab behind a metal box that is bolted just next to the fuel filler neck behind the right hand front seat ('passenger side' if US/Canada Specd truck). There may be other vent hoses that go from the tank up to the firewall or the previus owner may have shorted/removed them. Anyway, you should be able to pump at least 5 PSI into the tank.
Anyother issue that I have is that my fuel cap is not allowing enough air to vent back into the tank and I am developing a vacuum during runtime. I am getting air in my system if I am accelerating on hills on extended highway operation. I can see air filling in a clear inline filter I installed just before the priming pump. I don't have your drainback problem though.
If the ball valve is at least 1/4" diameter and it is rated for LPG or natural gas then it will be air tight and have a nylon bushing in it to seal the gas since this is a safety critical application (prevent gas explosion in a concealed area of a house!). Even if you end up with a larger valve, you can get by with reducers. Make SURE you use teflon tape or teflon paste on every threaded joint and tighten the crap out of each threaded metal pipe union - I mean **REALLY** tight!. The final end of the valve/reducers will be a barbed fittings of the inside diameter of your hose - slightly too large barbs are totally OK if you can wiggle the hose over it so that it is ultra-tight.. Again, make sure you get no teflon/paste INSIDE the pipes so you don't contaminate the system - just put them on the male threads and leave the first 1/4" inch bare.
Old priming pumps tend to leak when used after extended dormancy - not your problem. Not tightening them enough will show as leakage around the base because you didn't compress the brass/copper seal washer enough. The washer holds back the 26 PSI pump pressure so if there is no fuel leakage there that is not your problem. Don't remove the priming pump unless you can get another copper washer as they should not be reused - just make sure there are no visible leaks. That pump requires a really thin wrench - you can use a thin, metric bicycle bearing cup wrench if you have one or grind a wrench face thinner to fit.
Also if you are going to try the inflation method an alternate would be to just drain the fuel line and plug the end at the priming pump and fill from the tank side line. Use a spray bottle with soapy water on all of the pipe joints an carefully look for air bubbles. Obviously you are spraying the water on the OUTSIDE of the hoses and just filling with air.
No sure of your exact year/model. There is usually some venting inside the cab behind a metal box that is bolted just next to the fuel filler neck behind the right hand front seat ('passenger side' if US/Canada Specd truck). There may be other vent hoses that go from the tank up to the firewall or the previus owner may have shorted/removed them. Anyway, you should be able to pump at least 5 PSI into the tank.
Anyother issue that I have is that my fuel cap is not allowing enough air to vent back into the tank and I am developing a vacuum during runtime. I am getting air in my system if I am accelerating on hills on extended highway operation. I can see air filling in a clear inline filter I installed just before the priming pump. I don't have your drainback problem though.
If the ball valve is at least 1/4" diameter and it is rated for LPG or natural gas then it will be air tight and have a nylon bushing in it to seal the gas since this is a safety critical application (prevent gas explosion in a concealed area of a house!). Even if you end up with a larger valve, you can get by with reducers. Make SURE you use teflon tape or teflon paste on every threaded joint and tighten the crap out of each threaded metal pipe union - I mean **REALLY** tight!. The final end of the valve/reducers will be a barbed fittings of the inside diameter of your hose - slightly too large barbs are totally OK if you can wiggle the hose over it so that it is ultra-tight.. Again, make sure you get no teflon/paste INSIDE the pipes so you don't contaminate the system - just put them on the male threads and leave the first 1/4" inch bare.
Old priming pumps tend to leak when used after extended dormancy - not your problem. Not tightening them enough will show as leakage around the base because you didn't compress the brass/copper seal washer enough. The washer holds back the 26 PSI pump pressure so if there is no fuel leakage there that is not your problem. Don't remove the priming pump unless you can get another copper washer as they should not be reused - just make sure there are no visible leaks. That pump requires a really thin wrench - you can use a thin, metric bicycle bearing cup wrench if you have one or grind a wrench face thinner to fit.
Also if you are going to try the inflation method an alternate would be to just drain the fuel line and plug the end at the priming pump and fill from the tank side line. Use a spray bottle with soapy water on all of the pipe joints an carefully look for air bubbles. Obviously you are spraying the water on the OUTSIDE of the hoses and just filling with air.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I've had folks recommend using some oil paint to seal the hose to hard line joints. You could try that.
- Thread starter
- #109
Looking now the hose between the metal line and the IP doesn't look particularly old at all. Now in Salta, a good sized city (with nice weather!), so should be able to get most anything I need. Tried yesterday but it was sunday so the whole city was closed down... should have better luck today.
I was still hoping that it was just a bunch of coincidences with me introducing air into the system various ways at different times, but upon reaching Salta the following morning it again wouldn't start... so that pretty much has me convinced it's a leak now. I'm thinking of looking into how much it would cost here to just get all new lines... it doesn't seem like it would be all THAT much work to do?
I was still hoping that it was just a bunch of coincidences with me introducing air into the system various ways at different times, but upon reaching Salta the following morning it again wouldn't start... so that pretty much has me convinced it's a leak now. I'm thinking of looking into how much it would cost here to just get all new lines... it doesn't seem like it would be all THAT much work to do?
- Thread starter
- #110
Do you think I could turn the engine over manually with a ratchet to effectively bleed the injector lines instead of using the starter motor? Or would this introduce air/be far too slow to be worth while trying?
Yep, this has been a good read. Glad you got it mostly all squared away. I hope you didn't pull the AC lines. A vehicle AC compressor usually will outlast the vehicle it is in - especially one from Canada. All it may need is a shot of gas. I did my own just a while ago. I have my own supply of R-12 (aka - Freon)(my father was a refrigeration tech). If you pulled the lines, do as Cruiser_guy says (vacuum and dryer) and have a real refrigeration tech do the work. It can get real nasty (dangerous) if someone tries to add gas to the high pressure side. If you didn't pull the lines, then it is an easy job to add gas. I presume that your rig has been converted to R134a - the new gas. It may now be hard to find R-12 - even in Chile. I haven't tried R134a but I have heard it does not cool nearly as well as R-12. There are new replacement refrigerant gasses you could try. I can't recommend any because I haven't had the need to use them.
Happy trekking ...
I'm using hydrocarbon gas in both my formerly R12 system and the formerly R134a system in my work car.
I highly recommend it.
With a little creative hose connection you can use your diesels own vacuum pump to vacuum out the AC. Hydrocarbon gas is also cheap enough (and completely ozone friendly) so venting it doesn't turn you into an environmental criminal.
You can go truely ghetto and recharge your aircon from a bbq bottle of lpg (propane), but propane isn't that clean so unless you use a filter on the filling hose it may clog up the TX valve.
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- Thread starter
- #112
1. Where does one get hydrocarbon gas? Sounds promising!
2. How is it that the little tiny vacuum pump is more powerful than the intake side of the air con pump? It feels so pathetic when you put your finger on it... while one or two turns of the air con pump gives a really solid feeling of suction to my gloved thumb held over it.
3. How dangerous is the whole concept of putting propane in your A/C? Wow your AC would be an emergency compressor AND an emergency propane supply!
The only concern would be an emergency explosion...1. Where does one get hydrocarbon gas? Sounds promising!
2. How is it that the little tiny vacuum pump is more powerful than the intake side of the air con pump? It feels so pathetic when you put your finger on it... while one or two turns of the air con pump gives a really solid feeling of suction to my gloved thumb held over it.
3. How dangerous is the whole concept of putting propane in your A/C? Wow your AC would be an emergency compressor AND an emergency propane supply!
A lot of CFC Free aircon gases will be hydrocarbons. Don't know where you'll find some locally though. Except for that propane tank.
The diesel vacuum pump is smaller and slower than the AC pump, but that just means it takes a little longer to pull a vacuum, it'll still get there.
I don't see it as dangerous, there's a few hundred grams of gas in there total, in an accident it'll vent and disperse quickly. The smell is quite strong so it's easily detected if there is a leak.
If propane vents into a flame, you'll get a hotter flame. But given the amount of diesel and oil already in your vehicle, what is a little extra fuel going to do?
If CFC refrigerants vent into a flame you'll get some seriously nasty gases coming off that kill in small concentrations.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I know folks who recommend using propane but I cannot justify using an explosive chemical in my A/C system especially since the condensor is out there in the front of everything just asking to be hit in an accident. Yes, freon is not nice in the event of a fire either but I don't think it is as explosive as say propane.
The way I look at it, if propane was a good idea why don't the struggling auto makers use it?
I have R134a in both the BJ60 and the FJ55 and I'm happy with the way they work. It also means I can get A/C service anywhere. I've had it before with a truck that had been converted to R404 I think it was. I had to drive 3-4 hours to the nearest shop that would touch it, have them evacuate and draw a vacuum and then I could get it recharged. I went with R134a for ease of service at a later date. Here in Guatemala they were going to charge the FJ55 with something other than R134a but I insisted on R134a again to ensure ease of future servicing.
The way I look at it, if propane was a good idea why don't the struggling auto makers use it?
I have R134a in both the BJ60 and the FJ55 and I'm happy with the way they work. It also means I can get A/C service anywhere. I've had it before with a truck that had been converted to R404 I think it was. I had to drive 3-4 hours to the nearest shop that would touch it, have them evacuate and draw a vacuum and then I could get it recharged. I went with R134a for ease of service at a later date. Here in Guatemala they were going to charge the FJ55 with something other than R134a but I insisted on R134a again to ensure ease of future servicing.
Propane can't explode until it's mixed with air.
Inside your condenser it's 100% gas (no air), if it vents into a flame then it's combusted as it goes, if there's no immediate combustion then it disperses and is no longer concentrated enough to burn.
Car makers and refrigeration plants all over the world are now using hydrocarbon refrigerants. It's cheaper, environmentally friendly and makes the plant far more efficient.
I use filtered propane because proper hydrocarbon refrigerants aren't available in my location. It costs about $1 for the gas to refill a system, it cost me $100 to make up a complete charging kit with the connectors, gauges, filter etc.
If your system was built around R12, it can be very costly to convert to R134a and system performance will suffer. Hydrocarbon gases are a straight replacement without the loss in system efficiency.
- Thread starter
- #116
wow this is sounding really perfect for me. At least an explosive gas just blows you up... sounds almost more appealing/survivable than silent death.
So I would just attach my vacuum pump to one of the valves on top of the AC compressor, with a vac gauge to tell me when it's sucked enough, and then attach the propane bottle (with filter) to one of those valves and open her up to the 25psi the bottle spits out? Or would I want to regulate it to lower?
Also while we're here, can anyone offer any answers to the little question below?
So I would just attach my vacuum pump to one of the valves on top of the AC compressor, with a vac gauge to tell me when it's sucked enough, and then attach the propane bottle (with filter) to one of those valves and open her up to the 25psi the bottle spits out? Or would I want to regulate it to lower?
Also while we're here, can anyone offer any answers to the little question below?
Basically yes. The pressure in your propane bottle varies with temperature. I charge mine up to 30psi, on a cold day I can't get that, but on a hot day the pressure in the bottle will be higher.
If you've got a sight glass on the system somewhere then use that with a pressure gauge on the low side when the system is running.
- Thread starter
- #118
Well I guess it's getting a little off-topic for this thread, but it would be really awesome if you could offer a bit more detail on what your setup entails... either in this thread or another (there's a couple good threads going on AC stuff in the 60 series section).
What valve do you connect the vacuum pump to, and which one gets the propane (red or blue)?
What are the threads on the valves?
Any other specifics or directions... I guess you're doing it so you pretty much must know what one needs to do!
Cheers!
What valve do you connect the vacuum pump to, and which one gets the propane (red or blue)?
What are the threads on the valves?
Any other specifics or directions... I guess you're doing it so you pretty much must know what one needs to do!
Cheers!
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Which car makers are using propane or other potentially explosive refrigerants in their new vehicles? I have yet to hear of a new vehicle not equipped with R134a yet though I am sure something else is in the works.
Josh, unless you are a refrigeration tech I'd strongly advise against trying to charge the system yourself for the following reasons:
1) chances are you will not have a functioning system when all is said and done. You need to evacuate, find ALL leaks, charge with the right volume of gas (too much is as bad as not enough).
2) you likely do not have the approriate tools, refrigeration gages and adaptors to use your altenator vacuum pump and a propane bottle to charge.
3) using something other than R134a/R12 WILL render your system unservicable once you get home (I've been there with my truck which had R404 in it). If the system is deemed contaminated you may not find anyone willing to fix it right down the road (at least not with a guarantee).
Trust me, getting the A/C going again in Latin America is not that expensive, just find a good shop. Likely the parts to do a 1/2 ass job yourself will cost more than simply paying someone to do it right!
That's my $0.02, you can take it or leave it, just don't touch my A/C systems!!
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Here's one.
Ford :: Focus models :: ECOnetic
Ford focus econetic with CFC-Free airconditioning.
Most companies don't bother marketing it.
Here's a story from Denso (who supply Toyotas AC systems) dated 2002.
http://goliath.ecnext.com/coms2/gi_0199-2294260/Denso-s-CFC-free-air.html
The ultimate is air-cycle air-conditioning. But it requires some serious pressure to compress air to liquid for the system to work. Garrett had a system a few years back targetted at trains.
If "potentially explosive" worries you that much, you should probably stop driving.
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