So uh... I got a buttload of dirt in my turbo

[johnkappus]

hehe...This is the best thread i think i've ever read on MUD!

Cheers

 

[cruiserjunktion]

I have Been Lurking....


Glad you are back on the road.



Be happy you ran it out of gas, not oil (RIP 72FJ40)

 

[marting]

That's good news... good job on rebuilding the whole engine..


Gotta say: " I told you so"

Sounds like quite an adventure you are on..Good luck on the remains of the journey

 

[joshoisasleep]

its the shyte fat......

Haha that's awesome that you translated... I actually needed it! And no, no veggie oil has yet ever gone into this engine.

hehe...This is the best thread i think i've ever read on MUD!

Why do I feel like you mean comedic value... hehe

Be happy you ran it out of gas, not oil (RIP 72FJ40)

That is a sad thing! No the upside of having a turbo that eats oil is that I watch my oil levels like a hawk... check it every morning as part of my "preflight" Hope all is working out well with your (relatively) new baby! (both the one with the toyota emblem and the one without)

 

[canucksafari]

Yep, this has been a good read. Glad you got it mostly all squared away. I hope you didn't pull the AC lines. A vehicle AC compressor usually will outlast the vehicle it is in - especially one from Canada. All it may need is a shot of gas. I did my own just a while ago. I have my own supply of R-12 (aka - Freon) (my father was a refrigeration tech). If you pulled the lines, do as Cruiser_guy says (vacuum and dryer) and have a real refrigeration tech do the work. It can get real nasty (dangerous) if someone tries to add gas to the high pressure side. If you didn't pull the lines, then it is an easy job to add gas. I presume that your rig has been converted to R134a - the new gas. It may now be hard to find R-12 - even in Chile. I haven't tried R134a but I have heard it does not cool nearly as well as R-12. There are new replacement refrigerant gasses you could try. I can't recommend any because I haven't had the need to use them.

Happy trekking ...

 

[TOBASH]

translation is as follows.....

come on man....... hurry up

this thing has only got 15 moving parts...... your vehicle has a very simple motor

its the shyte fat...... you have used low quality vegetable oil for fuel

get some real diesel n get moving...... use some clean diesel fuel and it will go

if the fat hasnt shagged it...... unless the vegetable oil has done permanent damage

see if your sump oil hasn't jelled as well.... make sure the veg oil hasnt contaminated your engine oil

Get 'er goin' mate. Yer gonna wind up dancin' wit yer Waltzin' Matilda when the money for fixin' the LC is gone.

 

[johnkappus]

No, seriously!

I've learned a ton about diesels that I never knew.

...though there have been a few laughs, your self-deprcating syle makes it feel like we are laughing WITH you not at you


cheers man

 

[cruiser_guy]

I presume that your rig has been converted to R134a - the new gas. It may now be hard to find R-12 - even in Chile. I haven't tried R134a but I have heard it does not cool nearly as well as R-12. There are new replacement refrigerant gasses you could try.

John, I have R134a in my BJ60 and I have no complaints about it. He likely can find R-12 where he is though but personally I'd stick with R134a as it's more universally available assuming he has already converted to R134a.

 

[joshoisasleep]

My guy who swapped in the 3b charged the AC system himself, so maybe he didn't vacuum it, and I don't know what gas he used... I didn't know anything about this AC stuff until yesterday.
Yes I pulled the AC lines. When I turned on the AC it made HORRIBLE noises, didn't blow cold air unless it was already cold out (great!), and slowed down the car a little bit... at least now that I've killed it my girlfriend can't press the AC button, and I can turn it into an air compressor...

 

[canucksafari]

My guy who swapped in the 3b charged the AC system himself, so maybe he didn't vacuum it, and I don't know what gas he used... I didn't know anything about this AC stuff until yesterday.
Yes I pulled the AC lines. When I turned on the AC it made HORRIBLE noises, didn't blow cold air unless it was already cold out (great!), and slowed down the car a little bit... at least now that I've killed it my girlfriend can't press the AC button, and I can turn it into an air compressor...

A working AC will always drag down your engine a bit. That's why you have an idle up solinoid. Did you check the sight glass for frothing bubbles before pulling the lines? If you had bubbles then you were low on refrigerant. Either it has just seeped out over time - as happens with most automotive AC units or you got a leak. If it won't keep a charge then the leak should be easy for a qualified tech to find. There are two systems that I know of. One detects Freon in very minute part per million (probably useless with the modern gases and another you insert a traser gas to the system which the detector can find. BTW, Freon is only dangerous when it comes in contact with fire. Fire turns it into a poisonous gas. Of course it isn't great for the Ozone layer or if you happen to freeze your fingers.

Now, the most inportant thing is to keep dirt and water out of the lines you pulled. Either re-attach them and tighten or plug them well. If you are planning to drive in the tropics outside of the cool Andes, you are going to want that AC. If you want onboard air, then make a bracket to add another AC unit or buy an decent 4x4 electric onboard air system.

 

[joshoisasleep]

A working AC will always drag down your engine a bit. That's why you have an idle up solinoid.

Decreasing the idle at altitude was about the only thing the AC was good for!

Did you check the sight glass for frothing bubbles before pulling the lines? If you had bubbles then you were low on refrigerant.

The pump was physically making Awful noises! Bah maybe it wasn't the best decision... too late now.

If you are planning to drive in the tropics outside of the cool Andes, you are going to want that AC.

very true!

If you want onboard air, then make a bracket to add another AC unit or buy an decent 4x4 electric onboard air system.

Well I don't know if I'm going to find a decent 4x4 system even in Chile (sounds expensive!)... and besides... the speed at which the AC pump conversion inflated my tire was crazy! Faster than at a gas station! I shouldn't have too much trouble finding another AC pump somewhere though, and making brackets is very doable.



In other news, I got the turbo exhaust loop repaired yesterday. I asked the guy to reinforce it while he was at it but I wasn't terribly impressed with what he did. We'll see if it holds. Also put everything back on to the engine and ran it... purring like a kitten of course! (a very large clunky mechanical kitten)

 

[marting]

That's great! Just read your blog.. sounds like a blast..

 

[canucksafari]

In other news, I got the turbo exhaust loop repaired yesterday. I asked the guy to reinforce it while he was at it but I wasn't terribly impressed with what he did. We'll see if it holds. Also put everything back on to the engine and ran it... purring like a kitten of course! (a very large clunky mechanical kitten)

Did he brace it on each side with a piece of flat bar? 1/4" thick x 2" wide should help take some of the stress off that one weld.

If you are interested in building your onboard air, there is some good info on MUD and there is also an excellent thread I know of using a Sanden sd508 series (very common AC unit): onboard air - Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum If your rig is 24V, you will need to source a 24V coil for the clutch or it won't run. Volvo, Cat, John Deer (just to name a few) run 24V in their heavy equiptment and a lot of their equiptment has air conditioned cabs.

 

[joshoisasleep]

Did he brace it on each side with a piece of flat bar? 1/4" thick x 2" wide should help take some of the stress off that one weld.

Yeah... he just kinda bent an old piece of metal he had lying around and welded it to the underside of the loop. I'll snap a quick photo in a minute.

Thanks for the link and info on the compressor stuff. I guess it's not as simple as I'd thought... I'm pretty sure the Bolivian guys just took the hose straight off and added a tire filling tip to it, but that might not be the best way to go about it...

 

[joshoisasleep]

It's not over yet...

So I thought I had it licked but the problem persists. In the mornings I'm finding I need a LOT of cranks and/or bleeding injector lines to get it going... usually meaning I have to stop for a couple hours while I recharge the battery (I'll replace no.2 as soon as I can!). Do you guys think it more likely that I have developed an air leak, or that I simply have not gotten all the air out of the full length of the fuel lines? Keeping in mind I would have let more in further back when I drained the water sedimenter.

If it's #1... any advice on tracking down leaks?

 

[johnkappus]

I'm sure somebody else could give you better advise on tracking down the leak.

But I'd be careful of charging and draining the batteries over and over as that will surely kill them over time.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Do you see any evidence of diesel leakage anywhere? Do you have a water separator that is not mounted down low? I had issues with my '55 getting air in the lines until I got rid of the Racor that was mounted up in the engine compartment. I'll be mounting an OEM separator down on the frame rails of the '55 once the tank is closer to empty.

 

[joshoisasleep]

I'd be careful of charging and draining the batteries over and over as that will surely kill them over time.

Currently waiting for the battery to charge while I type this so I can have another go at it. The weird thing is this morning I bled a little bit at each spot - the filter, IP, and injectors, and didn't see any bubbles

 

[joshoisasleep]

Do you see any evidence of diesel leakage anywhere? .

That's the problem... from all the bleeding I've been doing there's diesel fuel coating everything! Impossible to tell! I don't remember seeing any drips or wet patches or anything before I did all that thought...

Do you have a water separator that is not mounted down low? I had issues with my '55 getting air in the lines until I got rid of the Racor that was mounted up in the engine compartment. I'll be mounting an OEM separator down on the frame rails of the '55 once the tank is closer to empty.

Nope just the stock sedimenter.

 

[cruiser_guy]

That's the problem... from all the bleeding I've been doing there's diesel fuel coating everything! Impossible to tell! I don't remember seeing any drips or wet patches or anything before I did all that thought...

Get some brake cleaner and spray down the engine good in the morning and then by the evening you should be able to tell what's going on.