So ..... Tech Day? (1 Viewer)

[Cass007]

Well, removing the valve cover should tell the story. I have the new gasket as well as new plug rings and the new hose where the catch can is. I could also bore out the top of the can and just use a coarse material to trap the oil and offer much less back pressure if that is the issue. That would be about right though, trying to help things and making them worse instead.

 

[DevWin]

Haven't been on here in awhile. If you need a hand let me know, I am close.

 

[Cass007]

PM me your cell Dev.

Pic test ... my Cruiser is full of wasp nests. This is like the 5th one I've found.

47

• Cass007
• Mar 7, 2018

 

[Cass007]

Pics are still small ...

 

[Cass007]

Pulled the catch can, gutted it and just a piece of scotch pad in it now to let the oil adhere to. Also solved the vibration issue. The rear cat was making contact with the slider on the pass side. Stuffed some additional rubber pads between the stock rubbers on the exhaust and it moved it 1/2" out of the way now.

 

[Cass007]

Spent a few hours today cleaning the valve cover and pulling all the plug caps. Every one had oil around the top part of the grommet. None had oil down around the plugs. Was hoping I wouldn't see any further oil, but went for a drive and am seeing oil again already. A lot around the front cap and some from the cap under the throttle body. Looks like the valve cover will have to come off after all

Put a new elbow on for the snorkel as well. still wants to kink a bit at the bend, but no lack in performance and it's air-tight now, so I may leave it for a bit.

Need to get the LX parking brake sorted out to get it inspected so I can have the Cruiser down for a bit. Anyone know if I can pass PA inspection and emissions with a pending code (P0401) if I clear it and just not shut the truck off before hooking it up to the OBDII scanner for the state?

 

[dci blair]

You will need to fix the issue. Clearing it will also reset the rediness monitors. If the monitors are not set you will not pass inspection.

 

[Cass007]

Looking for a little real time help if possible. Finally got the valve cover off ... 4.5 hours later. Stop laughing Blair

Getting ready to put on the new spark plug seals and not sure if I glaze with a little oil before install or not? The FSM has staggeringly little info about the whole process, basically just ... remove the valve cover, put valve cover back on.

 

[Cass007]

While taking a min to see if anyone is online to help ... some random observations.

1. When removing the TB, I went to get the bottom left bolt and it slipped out. Now it appears gone forever after searching for it with 2 different magnets and spending maybe 30 mins.

2. Getting to the rear bolt on the drivers side was not fun. It would help if I were 6'10"+ and could bend back there easily. Putting them back in and getting them tight should be a treat.

3. I found out why the valve cover was leaking at the rear pass side. Turns out the bolt was just sitting in the hole barely even hand tight. I removed it with my fingers. It never crossed my mind to check to see if it was tight, I just assumed the PO tightened all the bolts.

4. The seals were SUPER BRITTLE. Not sure if they are original or not, but 2 of them were straight crunchy.

 

[dci blair]

I don’t ever laugh at anyone’s dealings with mechanical repairs. If time has taught me anything, it’s the first time you do it will bite you in the ass.

Sounds like you found the source of your issue. I typically don’t oil any rubber seals on install, maybe a little squirt of some silicone if the needs presents itself. Often times when seals get brittle and dry up like that once tight bolts can become loose. Also not a bad idea to re tighten the bolts after 500 miles or so. Just give a snug to make sure settling didn’t occur.

If I wasn’t committed to putting a clutch in a Jeep on Saturday I’d totally make the trek up to lend a hand.

 

[Cass007]

Well, it's all back together and running. That is the good part. The bad part is that I couldn't get the valve cover stud the PO snapped off out. It's the one in the center right up front. Worse news is that I snapped the head off another (center on driver's side). It may have been fatigued, I was barely applying pressure and "click" off it came. It snapped right at the top, so should be plenty of stud available to back it out.

I never did find the bolt from the lower rear of the throttle body either. I must have looked for it for over an hour. Got lucky and had a similar bolt that worked, so that will do for now. Will order another set of TB and valve cover bolts from Onur.

Took it on a 30 min test drive, no leaks so far. Now that I have done it, I could probably do the whole process again in 3.5-4.0 hours assuming I don't lose the freaking bolt again.

Bonus cost was draining the brand new coolant I put in a week ago. I wanted to run distilled water, but was concerned with the temps being so cold and having the truck sit outside if needed. I will drain it again on Saturday and refill with coolant for Sunday.

Just had a random thought ... I better check that I can get the truck in Low Gear. I haven't tried it since the body lift went on and I read of a few people having issues.

 

[Cass007]

Can someone tell me how to remove the PCV valve? I have a new valve and grommet, but don't know how the old one comes off and didn't want to diesel it and break something else.

 

[Pacer]

Can someone tell me how to remove the PCV valve? I have a new valve and grommet, but don't know how the old one comes off and didn't want to diesel it and break something else.

PCV just wiggles out of the old crusty grommet in the vavle cover. Feness, not force.

 

[Cass007]

TY Pacer

All of my hoses and grommets have had the consistency of molded plastic. They tend to come off in pieces or chunks rather than just pull off. When I swapped out the PVC hose earlier this year I had to crush it with a pair of pliers until it snapped in two and then I could bend it until the ends snapped of the nipples.

How this truck even runs amazes me.