So its time to build a trailer (1 Viewer)

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I've been spending a lot of time looking through this forum and just want a place to consolidate some ideas and get ideas / feedback from others who have done the same / have more experience than me. I'm sure there are a dozen threads just like this one. So here goes.

Essentially I have 4 kids and my wife going with me on future trips. That means even though we have 3 vehicles ( x2 80 series and a 120 ) with 3rd row seats, once you have everybody in the vehicle there is no room for the luggage. I really dislike trying to cram everything in, and then drag it all out when its time to camp. I very much like my gear organized and don't enjoy moving a lot of things around.

I'm just going to throw some things out there that I have questions about or have been thinking on. Please feel free to share your thoughts and experiences.

1) size : probably 4x6 on the box.

2) draw bar : not real sure on this one. Extendable would be a nice option, but I don't know the rules yet on proper length. I've also seen integrated ones and the style that triangles under the main box. Not sure if it matters or benefits of one vs the other.

3) axle : another big one. I really like the design of the Timbren axle less suspension, though it is more expensive than other options. I do want this to ride nice. Not sure on what weight I would need. I'm thinking normal luggage, a roof top tent, some fuel and spare tools. Probably less than 2000lbs including trailer. Once again I'm not sure what rating of axle to go with.

4) axle location : I've heard of the 60/40 rule. Is there a formula for figuring out where your axle should be centered ?

5) panels : I haven't decided if I like the trailer skinned on the outside vs inside or if there is a benefit. I'm assuming most people stitch weld the panels and then use a seam sealer on the gaps ?
 
Look at 5x8/10. That's a big family. I think 4x6 is too small. make a box on the ground then think of all the things
that you want to put in it. My preference is for track width to be same as tow vehicle. I like the reach to be just long
enough for me to jackknife the trailer with the reach along the bumper so the trailer clears the corner of my truck
without hitting the side of the truck.
 
Size - I like the 4x6, mine is a little smaller, M416 size. I want smaller and trailer wheels inside of truck wheels, because of going off road and switch backs or narrow trails. I am going a little deeper this next time to fit specific items, like a 30lbs propane tank.

Draw bar - mind is adjustable. Normally it stays at the point where I can jackknife the trailer, but its adjustable because of an Alaska trip and if I need to take the ferry , being able to shorten the trailer would save money. I have also lengthen it to carry long pieces of wood.

Axle - I would say 3500lbs and get a bolt pattern to match your truck tires. I use trailing arms and heavy duty air bags, this let's me adjust the suspension for the load I am carrying. If you should go with standard springs, get the longest you can. Don't really know much about the Timbren setup other than what you can read about them.

Axle location - mind is around 60/40. Right now I have a little too much tongue weight with a Yeti and fuel and propane in the front, but still manageable. That wil change this winter with a new box and RTT.

Box - mine is made from wood and removable. The old box is the same as an M416 box, made from plywood. I really like the box, but not what I want/need now (for sale). I made my box removable, but I am using the trailer for different stuff. My frame has stake pockets on it and this year has been used that way 5 times. The new box will be made from hickory wood and have a metal frame to support the RTT.

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added pictures to show the other ways I use it

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4 x 6 is a decent size. I went 14" deep to keep the ice chest fully covered, but 16-17" wouldn't be unwelcome. I really like the idea of building it as a flat and then making a removable box for it- My next trailer will also be built on that premis. I haven't got enough parking to have a camping trailer, and a getter trailer too, so to have one that does both is a MUST. I like wide flat fenders- they make great tables. my tongue is adjustable by 3 1/2' using 2 1/2" x 1/4" wall inside of the 3" x 3/16" wall factory tongue tube. I use a flip down rolling landing gear. it is OK. The tailgate drops down 90* to keep the rear from dropping. I will put some adjustable feet on the tailgate to take up the slack between it and the ground. for now, flat rocks work just fine. HTH and have fun with it!
 
Look at 5x8/10. That's a big family. I think 4x6 is too small. make a box on the ground then think of all the things
that you want to put in it. My preference is for track width to be same as tow vehicle. I like the reach to be just long
enough for me to jackknife the trailer with the reach along the bumper so the trailer clears the corner of my truck
without hitting the side of the truck.

I have access to a 5x8 trailer frame for free. The problem I foresee is that at 5' in width, by the time I put wheels on it ( 12'' width same as rig) I am now wider than the track of either of the vehicles that would be towing it.

@coops2k do you have any pics of yours suspension setup ? Any links to what your using or how you built it ?

Already some good stuff in here and I appreciate the contributions so far.
 
New paint and lights.

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Trailing arms and air bags. Bags are Firestone bags, not sure about the trailing arms, I think the square ones are from a Jeep TJ and I have zero idea about the others. Also the axle is set up if I some day want to put brakes on it.

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This is something new. I just wired for a round 7 pin and used this junction box. This will let me run power to the box when it is on and I also want to add side flood lights for night camping and set up.

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@coops2k that looks pretty slick. Did you do a build thread on that ? Those pictures have left me with more questions than you want to answer ....

Also curious, with that swing arm setup like that you could technically remove the center section of axle tube correct ?
 
@coops2k that looks pretty slick. Did you do a build thread on that ? Those pictures have left me with more questions than you want to answer ....

Also curious, with that swing arm setup like that you could technically remove the center section of axle tube correct ?

The original build thread is lost, I do have some pictures.

I do not know about removing the middle, you would need to talk to an engineer about that.
 
it's a trailer keep it simple. long leaf springs solid axle drop axle if you have the room. as much as I love my datsun bed trailer i built, i'd probably build a flat bed stake side like coops2k. some removable sides makes it very universal. air over load for the big loads might be a good idea but I like springs for every day use and will not leave you stranded with an air issue. clearance is not an issue with mine every "independent" i have seen has much les clearance near the wheel and more for about 30% of the center section not worth the efort in my opinion.

i'm not going to make flat nasty but shooting for tuttle in october i will be bringing it i hope
 
KISS is a good rule to follow.

Before I did the air bags, I had leaf springs. I think the springs where too short about 22- 24" and they had around 25-30k miles on them when both broke while on the trail. Here is a link to some pictures. Trailer spring failure. I went to air bags because of the different weights I carry.
 
@cjmoon and @coops2k I appreciate the continued contributions to this thread. I've recently gotten off track due to a roof rack I'm building for my 80. However, its actually getting me tuned back up on my welding and tube bending skills, so that will be a plus when its time for the trailer.

Jess, I had never actually thought of a truck bed until I read through your thread. Generally they just look like hell, and I think shoddy workmanship has probably skewed my opinion of them. Yours looks great though and has given me some good ideas. I really like the axle you built and am curious what you did there. Also, the tube work on the front is very similar to what I was thinking of doing for protection on my build. Do you remember what diameter tube you are running and what CLR on your die ?
 
i'm running 2" 11ga HREW tube because i had it laying around. i want to say our die is 5.5" or 6.5" Radius. the main frame is 2x3 11ga as well.

the axle is a 4"drop axle from a low deck trailers used on flat beds and horse trailers and things you can see in the pics where i cut it to correct camber, but they do make axles without camber also that would be good to go buying new and using it as a lift type axle like mine. I snagged mine on Craigslist and made it work. I have another but it is marked for @StuckinKS unless he decides he doesn't want it.

this might be a good bed to use. The one picture looks clean. It's a 60's or 70's Ford Courier bed which is pretty unique.
Camper cargo trailer
 
@cjmoon I guess I need to read up on the effects of camber on trailers. I saw that slight turn in your axle and wondered if that's what you were going for. I'm assuming it just makes for better tracking behind the rig ? Also, the trailer in the link you posted looks like a beast. That looks like a six inch beam coming out of the front of it.

I found this for a new drop axle 3,500 lb. 4" Drop Standard Spring Trailer Axle what do you guys think ?
 
0 camber is what you want, some heavier axles are made to flex some so you start with positive camber and then loaded you approach 0 is the idea, mainly a tire wear issue I would doubt any of us will wear out a set of tires on a off road trailer from camber.

some axes even come with a little toe-in that would help tracking but straight is fine. It's Toe-out that causes issues just like on the front end of your cruiser.

Yes that axle is the one I put different studs in my hubs also to make them Metric to Match the cruiser.

the frame would be cut out of that truck bed just like I did with mine. mine wasn't that bad but close. all the truck frames drop down the middle so really just using the bed and making a custom frame would be ideal for a project like that. at some point probably easier to make sides and just add a floor to the frame. I personally just like the old truck beds. it's usable art to create and be a little different. If I let my engineer functional/requirement side take over the total custom would be more functional with lower bed height and probably faster/cheaper to make. My cruiser projects are to get away from that thought process be more creative.
 

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