Snowplow Brackets on a 40

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CruiserStuff

CruiserStuff

Joined
Oct 9, 2008
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Lake Arrowhead, CA (was), Rocky Top, TN (is)
Getting ready to mount a Meyer snowplow on the '76 fj40. Does anyone have pics of their mounting brackets? Any help is much appreciated....snow seems like it could come soon - would like to be ready this year instead of welding with white stuff coming down!
 
Mine was on this 76 .. just transferred it to another less stock rig for my drive and a few neighbors driveways.

The meyer mounts stock thru the frame gussets on top the bumper. You don't have to drill any holes using thsi setup.The part that really takes the beating I outlined in yellow... the heavy channel goes back and attaches to holes already in the frame behind the front back of the spring perchs.
Sunset-Cruiser-011mm.webp
 
no pics of the underneath.... basically a piece of 1/2" plate attached with bolts to the front of the bottom of the low frame and a 3/8 piece of c-channel going back about 53" attached( bolted again) to apiece of 3/8 heavy angle that straddles the frame behind the front of the rear springs.
PM me later this week and maybe I can go over a shoot a pic.
BTW.. power angled plow is the only way to go IMO.
Kenplow3.webp
 
I plowed for almost a decade without power angle - how I'll never know! It makes 100x the difference (and I don't get soaked getting out to change the blade angle). Yes, I'd really appreciate a pic when you have the time. I'll PM you later....
 
It's really important IMO to keep the plow as close to the front bumper as possible. I would try to mount the hinge point as far back as you can. Possibly 8-12" behind the bumper. I'll try to get some pics of my dad's set up. His is a western, but they are fairly similar. He's re-designed his set up a few times to tuck the plow back under the rig further. The further out the plow is the more problem you'll have with the weight distribution. It also kinda defeats the advantage of the short wheel base when plowing tight areas.

Edit: if this is just for a driveway I wouldn't worry about the position as much. My dad uses his for commercial plowing. He's got a newer HD 3/4 ton for the streets and the fj40 for all the smaller stuff. It really is substantially faster on any smaller parking lot or driveway where you have to turn around or maneuver a lot.

I'll try to get a few pics of the wings too. They are spring loaded and work pretty slick. Plus they are fairly simple to build.
 
What you're saying makes a lot of sense.... having the hinge back as far as you can, but still have full lift without hitting the bumper. I live in the mountains and have tight, narrow driveways, access roads, etc - turn radius is VERY important. I'd love any pics you can manage. Thanks....
 
Jetboy said:
It's really important IMO to keep the plow as close to the front bumper as possible. I would try to mount the hinge point as far back as you can. Possibly 8-12" behind the bumper. build.
Click to expand...

On the white 76 you can not move the plow hydro part frame any farther back or it would hit the steering box and interfere with the stock steering mechanism.
I removed the plow and installed it on my other 76 that has saginaw... that was a beyotch, had to remodel it a bit... I don't plow for $$ just fun and to help a few old farts like me. Last year we had record snowfall and It sat in my backyard... this year I'll be ready.
I agree with moving the hinge point but once you see that under front frame horns on a 40 there is not a lot of room. The pic of the rear mount shows one hole under the frame. I have a 2.5" lift which caused the bracket to be low and not hit the diff. I am fabbing up a bracket that will bolt in that hole and to the framewith 1/2: bolts.
plow-004.webp
plow-003.webp
plow-002.webp
 
one of the sub frame.. I had to cut some beef out where it rubbed the diff but will strengthen it up with some 1/2" stock
plow-005.webp
 
Bennett - You rock. The pics help alot. Actually, your set up is almost identical to the one on the 1980 40 in my profile pic....down to the bent C channel! In your opinion, could you drop the C channel down some more so the side didn't have to be cut out (and therefore stronger) or would that put the channel too low to the ground? I'm gonna add a mini-truck power steering setup, so I won't have to deal with the Sag box issue.

Looking at your bottom pic of the C channel - did you break one of the ears off or is the channel offset to one side? I see you drilled a hole in the channel to let oil out, too.....smart....
 
Crusierstiff.. yes I had to take about 2" of the left side when I moved that upright out of the way of the saginaw. If you have no lift I see now reason to cut the c-channel. You could drop it but I stuck with the original engineering done by meyer. Any lower and I think you would have clearance issues with it so close to the ground in front. I wouldn't move it to the side as I think it would exert some real force sideways with a full load. One other way around that would be to use some 1/4 wall square tube with x bracing and route it back around the diff and wider in the rear as to put the tension out toward the frame rails more. A complete new plow subframe if you will.

btw way that subframe runs right down the center and is not offset. Just looks that way with the left ear cut off.
snowplow1.webp
 
Last edited:
Got the hoop, pump and electrical installed on the truck (along with the grill guard). Spent quite a bit of time (and muscle) with an 8 pound sledgehammer trying to get the subframe (c-channel) straight...turned out pretty good. Thought you'd like to see how it's coming together....

3081272064_2153d59fcf.jpg


3081272096_1686fc8fb5.jpg


Carb is at Mark A's getting rebuilt. Working on getting the main frame attachment brackets mounted (may have to do some new ones)....
 
Thanks Bennett - I'd still like to work on modifying the subframe with some square tube and x bracing....just want to be sure that I have a set-up that works on the truck right now in case snow flies. I'll post what I work out later for your input. Thanks for the parts suppliers....can never have too many back-up pieces!
 
I like that setup you have, damn winter is here again.
Vic
Bennett said:
Crusierstiff.. yes I had to take about 2" of the left side when I moved that upright out of the way of the saginaw. If you have no lift I see now reason to cut the c-channel. You could drop it but I stuck with the original engineering done by meyer. Any lower and I think you would have clearance issues with it so close to the ground in front. I wouldn't move it to the side as I think it would exert some real force sideways with a full load. One other way around that would be to use some 1/4 wall square tube with x bracing and route it back around the diff and wider in the rear as to put the tension out toward the frame rails more. A complete new plow subframe if you will.

btw way that subframe runs right down the center and is not offset. Just looks that way with the left ear cut off.
Click to expand...
 
CruiserStuff said:
Yeah, Winter is here...kinda a mixed blessing for me - it is cold and a pain to deal with, but I make pretty good money with the blade....
Click to expand...
I will do maybe 3 or 4 driveways for people close,but I wouldn't want to plow more than that.
I bought a 74 for parts and the po owner used it for near 13 years plowing few driveways. It didn't bother it much, but he added 2 more leaves on the front. It is like anything else , if you know what you are doing and get to know the spots you are plowing, the 40 will plow for ever.
 
Just wondering, has anybody ever seen a 40 equiped with a snow blower. It seems like it will work.
 
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