That looks too far open to me. I'll grab some pics of mine in a minute. I remember reading somewhere, if you get that adjustment out of whack, you should turn the screw in till it just touches the contact point for starters.
Sniper - RPM Help
- Thread starter JDNs78FJ40
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Catching Neutral
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@steamer….thank you…It just looked off
Just thought I’d mention.
Every time you turn the key on, the Sniper cycles and will deliver a priming shot of fuel. If you should be turning it on multiple times to check on settings, you may end up with a lot of fuel dumped in there. If I’m making changes or just checking the settings, I’ll disconnect the fuel pump if I’m turning it off and on multiple times.
Every time you turn the key on, the Sniper cycles and will deliver a priming shot of fuel. If you should be turning it on multiple times to check on settings, you may end up with a lot of fuel dumped in there. If I’m making changes or just checking the settings, I’ll disconnect the fuel pump if I’m turning it off and on multiple times.
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
Copy that…I am using the mechanical pump plus a power surge. I suppose I could disconnect the power surge.
Question….last weekend when I fired up the sniper for the first time and discovered the high idle problem I did not have the vac advance canister capped. It was completely intact and hooked to ported vacuum. With the throttle plates open as shown in my picture above would it be possible for the ported vacuum to be engaged and advancing the dizzy?
Question….last weekend when I fired up the sniper for the first time and discovered the high idle problem I did not have the vac advance canister capped. It was completely intact and hooked to ported vacuum. With the throttle plates open as shown in my picture above would it be possible for the ported vacuum to be engaged and advancing the dizzy?
Sure, I would think so. But I don't think the vacuum advance was the cause of your high idle. I would just back out the throttle blade screw till it just touches and fire it up. If needed, adjust the screw to keep it running at a somewhat decent idle speed till it's up to temperature. Then adjust the throttle blades to 2-10 percent on the IAC. Then check your timing.
Also make sure your throttle blades open smoothly. I’ve seen people put the adapter in backwards and the blades would not open correctly
Catching Neutral
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Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
Opened idle screw until throttle blades looked closed. Dizzy vac capped. Fired her up and she ran smooth.
Chased down and fixed two fuel leaks. Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere with no change. Hooked up timing gun and got the timiing 9-10degrees before TDC. Pulling 19 on the vacuum guage. Too damn cold to get up to learning temp sitting in the driveway so I had to drive her. IAC says 31% key on, 0% when running…,gotta figure that out. But I am happy.
Chased down and fixed two fuel leaks. Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere with no change. Hooked up timing gun and got the timiing 9-10degrees before TDC. Pulling 19 on the vacuum guage. Too damn cold to get up to learning temp sitting in the driveway so I had to drive her. IAC says 31% key on, 0% when running…,gotta figure that out. But I am happy.
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Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
Put 12 or so miles on her so far…
The IAC is reading 0% at idle. Have idle set at 750 and it’s idling about 840
Tried adjusting the IAC screw CCW to bring IAC above 2% however the screw looses contact with the linkage and the IAC remains 0%. Any ideas?
The IAC is reading 0% at idle. Have idle set at 750 and it’s idling about 840
Tried adjusting the IAC screw CCW to bring IAC above 2% however the screw looses contact with the linkage and the IAC remains 0%. Any ideas?
How's the throttle cable slack/tension?
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
I has a little play in it
The link from the Holley forum you put up earlier has the “strong tape” method listed. Try that
Catching Neutral
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quick update…I drove the 40 to the gym and then to work yesterday. Same for today. On those two legs it doesn’t have a chance to get above 160 degrees allowing it to learn. It barely reached 160 by the time I drove home yesterday so I kept driving until it was up to 170ish. I then reset the wizard settings . The IAC after reset was reading 20% and with a small adjustment of the IAC screw is now reading 1% at 750rpm idle which I consider a victory as it has shown nothing but 0% to this point.
I will do the “strong tape“ method this weekend hoping to get it 5-6%.
I will do the “strong tape“ method this weekend hoping to get it 5-6%.
Is your thermostat stuck open? It should get to operating temperature of 190 or whatever the t stat is set to open at. If not you may have an issue with your temp sensor.
Catching Neutral
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No idea if thermostat is stuck open. I think the low temp reading is a function of such a short drive.
They don’t really learn that much. Just drive it.
Catching Neutral
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So the sniper and I have something in common 
Catching Neutral
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@mtrdud So far so good. I suppose you could make an argument for going the other route if you wanted a cleaner looking engine bay. The power surge does take up some space. I have a rear mounted tank under tub with a skid plate and had zero desire trying an intake fuel pump. This would have left me with external fuel pump route which made the PS option appealing. Little tip for you if you choose the PS route. The PS calls for any cheap auto parts store filter between the OEM fuel pump and the PS. I ended up with with the following glass filter which allows me to see that the OEM pump is working with the engine running.
