snapped spark plug help (1 Viewer)

[Devilmans Hand]

for a nissan 4cyl

I managed to snap a spark plug. it cracked under the drive section of the plug. the threaded portion is still stuck in the block. I cranked the engine and the bottom electrode and ceramic bit shot out.

Any good ideas to what i can do? I was thinking of cutting the threaded portion of the plug with a hacksaw blade in a couple sections and somehow getting some needle nose pliers in there. maybe stuff a cotton ball down there to prevent the metal filings from getting into the cylinder. Btw, the plugs are at the end of a tube.
I really really really don't want to pull the head.

Is there any way to drill out whats left of the spark plug without getting shavings in the cylinder? I'd need a really long drill bit too b/c i have the coil pack tube to get past.

 

[Von Hayek]

Yikes! It appears to me that there is hole now where the ceramic used to be? If so, you should be able to get an Easy Out into that hole. The only problem with Easy Outs is that when they snap, you are never going to drill them out. Better than pulling the head though.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

x2 on the large easy out, and then only after many liberal applications of Kroil or a quality penetrant. And then, don't really force it too much. Easy outs are notoriously brittle. I hope that you put some anti-seize on the sparkplug threads when you installed it. Always a good idea.

Even if you had to file, you can always vacuum out the filings with a small hose. I made an adapter (piece of 3/8 ID clear tubing duct taped to crevice hose end) that handles this stuff well. I expect a long piece of tubing attached to an air gun would do the same...

Or, you could vacuum as you file to cut down on filings getting inside.

Other times, I've added a magnet right by the filing area or the file, then blown off filings with compressed air.

Good luck, Sam

 

[John Smith]

Ouch! This is one of those times you may want to cut your losses, pull the head, and let a machine shop deal with it.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Ouch! This is one of those times you may want to cut your losses, pull the head, and let a machine shop deal with it.

this is realistically what i'm thinking.
I don't want to necessarily try an easy out and snap that off in there, because it will only add to my machine shop cost. Whats left of the spark plug is really really tight in there.
If i try and cut it out i'll have to pull the head anyway to properly install a sleeve. then get the metal bits out of the cylinder.

anyone recommend a good machine shop in or around manassas?

 

[Devilmans Hand]

i wonder how much a rebuild head would cost too for this nissan sentra 2001 1.8 4cyl

the engine has 120k on it now...and prob wouldn't hurt for some preventative maintanence.

think the ford tool is "Calvan 38900 Specialty Tool Kit"
Ford Spark Plug Blow Out Problems How to Repair | Tech Articles

and about $250

looks like i'll try the easy out, then if i fubar that pull head.

 

[Thornton]

anyone recommend a good machine shop in or around manassas?

C&C Automotive in Yorkshire

 

[Devilmans Hand]

C&C Automotive in Yorkshire

thanks Tom.
Hopefully it wont come to that.

 

[Jakes40]

Role the motor over till the piston is at Top dead center Krole the hell out of it let it set for an hour then crank the engine over to get the Krole out use the easy out install the new plug. if the easy out breaks then pull the head it may come right out just take it slow and steady.

just my $.02

Chris

 

[Skrewball]

i've had to do the same thing in a toyota 3.0.

the easy out that you need to use is pretty big compared to the ones most of us usually break.

the one i had to use has a 3/8 square drive and i couldn't find anything to use to turn it(it was really stuck)

i then found that a cheap distributor wrench set from any parts store has a little 3/8 double sided female drive. you can use that on the end of an extension since it is in the tube.

Like Chris said if the easy out breaks then you have to pull the head anyway. it won't add any labor for the machine shop if the easy out is in there.

some times a 12 point socket will fit the easy out, but in my situation i couldn't find one that would.

Good Luck!!

 

[kulangot]

Sam,

Can you stick an old screwdriver in there, spot weld it to the remaining threads and then twist it out? An old extension or even all thread might work too. You could battery weld it with some e6010 or e6011 rod that is designed for rusty, painted, dirty, etc metal...farmers love that kind of electrode. Stick the electrode right up to where it needs to be and then have someone flip the switch on an then off. You only need a tack.

or...

Get a snapon splined extractor...thay bad ass madda packas:

REX116A, Extractor, Multi-Spline, 1/2"

a pawnshop in Leesburg was advertising a set on craigslist recently.

Good luck with it!

John

 

[kulangot]

I'm going to see my Snapon guy this week, I can ask him what he stocks on the truck. I think he's in Chantilly one day this week, would be closer for you. Text me and i'll send you his number. Super cool and friendly guy. Kung Fu master mechanic to boot. He'd probably come up with a dozen ways to get that out.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

That is as cool extractor. Might just have to buy that. Ill text you tomorrow John. Way cheaper than the Ford spark plug removal tool.
Cool idea about spot welding a screwdriver! Will one battery work, or do I need two in series?

I only got around to pblasting it tonight, since I've been busy with the woman.
Some good news though. Upon further inspection I notice that I got the spark plug 1/3 out before it snapped. 2/3 more to go.

If I didn't have that coil pack tube to deal with, then I could use some vice grips.

 

[kulangot]

BrassCraft 5-Piece Steel Pipe-Nipple Extractor Set - T167 at The Home Depot

 

[kulangot]

i've had to do the same thing in a toyota 3.0.

the easy out that you need to use is pretty big compared to the ones most of us usually break.

the one i had to use has a 3/8 square drive and i couldn't find anything to use to turn it(it was really stuck)

i then found that a cheap distributor wrench set from any parts store has a little 3/8 double sided female drive. you can use that on the end of an extension since it is in the tube.

Like Chris said if the easy out breaks then you have to pull the head anyway. it won't add any labor for the machine shop if the easy out is in there.

some times a 12 point socket will fit the easy out, but in my situation i couldn't find one that would.

Good Luck!!

Try these, I really like them.

Amazon.com: Lisle 70500 Tap Socket Set: Automotive

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Thanks for everyone's help. I removed it with a craftsman easy out type extractor. Almost crapped myself when I heard a loud snap, but luckily it was Just a craftsman 3/8. 12pt socket that broke. Put on my deep well of same size and it starred turning slowly with the breaker bar.
Just chased the block thread with a finishing tap and soon ill vacuum out any tiny bits left around anywhere.http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv345/DevilmansHand/IMG_20110215_203858.jpg

Looks like there was antisieze on the plug, but the bottom three threads are smoothed

 

[emorth]

 

[Von Hayek]

Bet you cracked a beer after that one.

 

[John Smith]

Nice work!

 

[Jakes40]

good work! Sam. Glad it was semi painless they can be a PITA!

Chris