Snapped Class IV Hitch Bolt? (1 Viewer)

[e9999]

if one is to go to the trouble of having a welder work on the thing, seems like it would be much easier to simply weld a plate on the outside of the frame, and either tap that or have a nut welded on the inside face?

 

[NaterGator]

Can you weld? If so, Just weld a bit of steel up there, drill a hole and use a tap to create threads.

If not... hrm... find someone who can?

if one is to go to the trouble of having a welder work on the thing, seems like it would be much easier to simply weld a plate on the outside of the frame, and either tap that or have a nut welded on the inside face?

 

[e9999]

oh well... ya don't think people actually read your posts, do you...?


well, that plus great minds think alike !

 

[semlin]

without the welded nut on the inside the frame isn't thick enough for any threads and if you welded a plate on the outside that was thick enough to receive threads the tow hitch plate would not fit flat.

so you have to reweld the internal nut

 

[e9999]

without the welded nut on the inside the frame isn't thick enough for any threads and if you welded a plate on the outside that was thick enough to receive threads the tow hitch plate would not fit flat.

so you have to reweld the internal nut

easy to put spacers under the hitch mounting surfaces, would lower it 3/8" or so, no biggie. Or weld a knob on the extra plate that will fit in the OEM hole so you have plenty of material to work with.

 

[semlin]

actually, that gives me a better idea. enlarging the oem hole with a small holesaw and then welding in a disc the size of the new hole with a nut already welded to it might be the easiest of all.

 

[IdahoDoug]

You're going to a welder either way. So, push the broken part up into the frame, and coax it back to the open hole farthest rearward where you've squirted a big blob of silicone that will dry and keep it from rattling. Then have the hole welded shut, and ground flat, then drilled and tapped.

I'm not a welder, so not sure if molten metal can be made into a thicker blob up in there for appropriate length of threads, or if this would create a structurally stout equivalent to the original. Others should definitely chime in with welding knowledge.

DougM

 

[-Spike-]

actually, that gives me a better idea. enlarging the oem hole with a small holesaw and then welding in a disc the size of the new hole with a nut already welded to it might be the easiest of all.

I can't believe it took 26 posts for someone to figure this out. Don't bother with a hole saw, use a cutoff wheel and make a square hole, then weld in a new square (or the same square, if you're big into the all-original thing ) with a nut pre-welded on it. You do NOT want to try to cut a hole with a hole saw- trust me.

-Spike

 

[Boz_10]

Does anyone know where to purchase such bolts?????

I've tried Lowe's, Toyota and some other places and no once carries the fine metric tread!!!

Thanks

 

[semlin]

had the same issue. i got mine from a trailer hitch shop. they do import installs so they have a huge range of metric grade 8 bolts.

 

[RavenTai]

the nut is already mounted to a plate, the plate is welded at an accessible place near the back of the frame, you have to remove the bumperets

so remove bumper cap break weld, remove strip with 3 nuts, remove nut with bolt stuck in it reweld new nut

but

if it works this may be easier, thread nut onto broken bolt, weld in place, the heat should help break up the rust, apply more PB blaster to further break up rust turn bolt in and then turn it back out until it binds, repeat until it is removed,

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Drill a hole in the side of the frame with a hole saw in line with the nut, reweld the nut to the plate, and then unthread the bolt with vise grips. Once it's all done, just put the hole sawed plate back in and weld it up.

Ary

 

[MARLIN375]

I just have to get in on this one.......

I would wrap a 3 foot piece of .032 wire (welding wire) on to the end of the old spining bolt and push it out through the frame end.

Take a new bolt and wrap the same wire on to it (while you have it still through hole and frame end)

pull the bolt through the frame and out the hole, tack it into place.
you now have a stud protruding from your frame........the rest is obvious.......

 

[Boz_10]

Bolts

had the same issue. i got mine from a trailer hitch shop. they do import installs so they have a huge range of metric grade 8 bolts.

- How many bolts do you need to hoist the hitch?? Do you also need nuts?

I just found this website... www.boltdepot.com and it looks like they have the 8mm bolts... I just need to know what else and how many I need before purchasing.

Thanks