Snails crawl going up hill

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Tony...as noted, one way to go faster up the hill is add the TRD charger...;)

Here is the Dyno chart from my rig with the TRD charger, 315's, OME Heavies, and 4.88's. This is measured at the wheels, where the above chart was at the crank. We all know how much is lost in the drivetrains in these rigs...heaps! :eek:

:cheers:

Steve

cyclosteve-albums-dyno-day-2-picture11177-02nov09-dyno-comparison-1.jpg
 
While I don't own a 80 series I do have a FJ62 that I used to go up 260 out of Camp Verde. The thing I would do is shift it manually instead of just trying to shift by stomping on the pedal. I found that worked better. Without using the shifter I would be picking up speed only to have it shift up and the RPMs drop out of the power band. I know my 100 series has that button the moves the shifting point for hill climbing and towing. That what I use for now. Did all the 80 series get that, just the later or none?

I did use to tow a small camping trailer up Interstate 17 with my 68 FJ40. Stock F engine and three speed. 36 MPH going up hill would have seemed like racing.
 
I think part of your problem, as you suspect, is in your kickdown linkage. My '94's is really sensitive and it'll down shift very easily on hills. Tweak on it till it shifts when you need it. The rest is like Kevin and the others that say - keep it in the power band. Remember, all that body armor weighs a bunch. If you want your eyes to pop, next time you get a chance to weigh your rig, do it. Here in Oregon, even if the weigh station is closed, they'll leave the scales on. Mine will top 6300 lbs easily with 2 people, full tank and 2 - 3 days worth of luggage. That's a lot of weight for 4.5 liter engine to pull and pretend like it's peppy.
 
Flog it Tony, dont be shy!
 
azTony said:
...
Thank you Kevin for posting the dyno results and I am "assuming" these are a stock 1FZ results. ...
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Yes, Toyota published. Looks to be crank output, wasn't looking for a debate on it's accuracy, just pointing out where the sweet points are. Best economy is generally just short of where the torque and HP cross, so the low 2000rpm range and peak HP in the 4000+rpm range.

azTony said:
...
Tools, you said you have stock gears with 37's and you have no problem? Is your engine stock?
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Other than suspension mine is stock, well the resonator is gone, but don't see that effecting power? It's also relatively light, every pound added reduces performance, on both highway and trail.

I'm running 37's and stock gears, it's not the best setup, but works. For the highway I prefer it to the 33's, the "rubber overdrive" allows it to hold 2nd and climb. With the 33's it would hunt between 2nd and 3rd. I own a set of 529 gears (~3.5yrs:rolleyes:) just haven't found the motivation to install, because it works as is. :hillbilly:
 
80t0ylc said:
I think part of your problem, as you suspect, is in your kickdown linkage. My '94's is really sensitive and it'll down shift very easily on hills. Tweak on it till it shifts when you need it. ...
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On the solenoid/ECU shifted trans, '93 and newer, the "kickdown" cable has nothing to do with shift points. The ECU shifts the trans, the "kickdown" only adjusts the system pressure, smoothness of the shifts.
 
CycloSteve said:
Tony...as noted, one way to go faster up the hill is add the TRD charger...;) ...
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I would never run a S/C in AZ, way too hot here. The S/C cripples the cooling system and the S/C adds to the heat load, a bad combo for reliability.:hillbilly:
 
have you tried adjusting your kick down cable?
 
Tools R Us said:
I would never run a S/C in AZ, way too hot here. The S/C cripples the cooling system and the S/C adds to the heat load, a bad combo for reliability.:hillbilly:
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But it's a dry heat...
 
Living in the Past said:
While I don't own a 80 series I do have a FJ62 that I used to go up 260 out of Camp Verde. The thing I would do is shift it manually instead of just trying to shift by stomping on the pedal. I found that worked better. Without using the shifter I would be picking up speed only to have it shift up and the RPMs drop out of the power band. I know my 100 series has that button the moves the shifting point for hill climbing and towing. That what I use for now. Did all the 80 series get that, just the later or none?

I did use to tow a small camping trailer up Interstate 17 with my 68 FJ40. Stock F engine and three speed. 36 MPH going up hill would have seemed like racing.
Click to expand...

I run stock gears and 315s in my 92 3FE. I have to anticipate what the grades are before I get to them and manually shift. This past weekend we went up to Camp Verde (I-17N all up hill), I left it in 3rd most of the trip up. I was able to keep it at about 55 heading up out of Black Canyon City. I had to drop it into second about 1/2 way up to maintain that speed. Same with our trip from Camp Verde up 260 to the Rim...manually selected 3rd with an occasional drop into 2nd. I find cruising on the 17 at 3000 - 3600rpms in the 3FE is where it will maintain speed. I don't have a power button or o/d off button so the shifter and my foot have to work together to manage best. Sounds to me you need more rpms to keep your rig moving along....drop down a gear to keep it over 3000 and don't let it bog down at 2200.

Once I figured that trick out about driving a 3FE, hills don't bother me all that much anymore. Of course every now and again a hill will get the best of all of us. I could't keep it over 30 going up Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado. 8 miles of 7-8% grade at 8400ft climbing to 10,700ft. 2nd gear all the way up and enjoy the scenery. :grinpimp:
 
Jack G. Nichols said:
Did anyone mention the transmission "power switch" on the dash? On my '93 it seems to extend the "shift up" rpm range higher. Or another way, delays shifting until a higher RPM
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For mountain climbing it's close to useless. When close to wide open throttle the ECU uses the "power" shift map. When climbing mountains the skinny pedal is close to or on the mat, so the "power" shift points are being used, pushing the button is redundant.:hillbilly:
 
Tools R Us said:
I would never run a S/C in AZ, way too hot here. The S/C cripples the cooling system and the S/C adds to the heat load, a bad combo for reliability.:hillbilly:
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C'mon Kev, many 80 cooling systems are crippled already by a variety of differ factors, ie sludge, worn out radiator, fan clutch needing new oil, etc...the S/C just finds those problems quicker.

Anyone considering an S/C in AZ heat (TX, or otherwise) just needs to be sure that their cooling system is in top shape. Yes, the S/C adds to the heat, but to deem it a bad combo for reliability is perhaps going a tad bit far. It is the most reliable bolt-on way to get more power with these rigs, and would definitely help up those pesky hills.

:cheers:

Steve
 
Kurtis said:
My 2f in a 60 stock gears and 33s would do 45-50 up that hill something is defiantly way wrong.
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An Auto tranny 80 versus a manual 60 is no comparison, as toyotas early autos robbed tons of power where as a 60 loses very little in there. My stock 82 FJ60 with 300k and a poorly adjusted carb would beat out my 62 with a great running rebuilt engine and rebuilt trans any day (when the 62 was still stock)

Wrench said:
But it's a dry heat...
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A dry heat still cooks everything.

I found that keeping the R's up in my 62 helps on hills immensely, but like what was said earlier, if you slow down because of traffic, getting back up there is nearly impossible. They (inline 6's) feel and sound scary at high R's, but mine hasn't come apart yet. :hillbilly:
 
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CycloSteve said:
C'mon Kev, many 80 cooling systems are crippled already by a variety of differ factors, ie sludge, worn out radiator, fan clutch needing new oil, etc...the S/C just finds those problems quicker.

Anyone considering an S/C in AZ heat (TX, or otherwise) just needs to be sure that their cooling system is in top shape. Yes, the S/C adds to the heat, but to deem it a bad combo for reliability is perhaps going a tad bit far. It is the most reliable bolt-on way to get more power with these rigs, and would definitely help up those pesky hills.

:cheers:

Steve
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True, once I had my system set up properly, Ive been running my SC for almost 4 years now in AZ with no problems and loving it.
 
Murf... your trying to sell me a SC now aren't you!!! "Don't" let Melissa here this...
 
I've been driving around a '94 today and the difference in acceleration between it and my other two 80's is astounding. I can see where Tony is coming from now having experienced it myself. This thing is truly a different animal....holy cow.
 
I just don't know how you couldn't do those hills because with my 2f i would hit those hills drop it into second and run up to like 4000 rpms redlined and be doing 50-55 all the way up to payson, and that was with a 2f. That doesn't make any sense.
 
azTony said:
Murf... your trying to sell me a SC now aren't you!!! "Don't" let Melissa here this...
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C'mon man, you & Melissa are newly weds, you can blow a few grand here and there. It won't hurt your marriage at all...promise! Couples NEVER fight over money!:D
 
gotmud said:
C'mon man, you & Melissa are newly weds, you can blow a few grand here and there. It won't hurt your marriage at all...promise! Couples NEVER fight over money!:D
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Hell If you are newly weds start things off right, buy and install it and THEN take her out and show her what you bought.:clap:
 
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