Smoking 1KZ-TE

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Sorry Wayne,

I am not yet well known with this engine and the PCV system.
After some checking on the mighty internet i found some articles regarding PCV.
My other car ( 1984 Toyota Crown) has a hose running from the crankcase, outside the the engine, to the valve cover so I was expecting this also on my cruiser.

I also found some articles regarding the EGR valve and that might explain the black deposit in the intake. This might be from the exhaust gasses blown into the intake trough the EGR valve. This valve can be clogged-up with carbon so a clean-up operation could help.

Thanks so far for the comments.
 
If the engine is in otherwise good mechanical condition, it could just be glazing the bores as you say your wife drives it very easily.

I would try removing the PCV hose, blocking off the inlet pipe end, and fitting a longer hose to the rocker cover vent and letting it vent to atomosphere. When the engine is hot, check this hose for excessive oily fumes and oil dripping out.

Otherwise, find a big hill and give the engine a work out under high load for a while. You may find it will blow some of the carbon and soot out of the exhaust and make it run better.
 
Well, not much high hills here unfortunately, so I started to take out the EGR valve. What a #$@& job. These engines are made for japanese hands and offcourse if you don't have a proper manual you have to figure it out yourself. After a few hours of sweat and some words my little girl should not hear, it was out.
Full of black deposit but still operating, so I used some carburator cleaner to clean it.
then I try to look for the PCV valve and took of my valvecover to try and locate it. To remove the valvecover you have to remove the intake pipe and I noticed some oil in the turbo outlet. Not so much but it was there. Now I presume it is normal to have a little oil in the turbo outlet so I am not that worried.
I could not locate the PCV valve so any suggestions will be appriciated.

I think the smoke is less, so I will see for a while how the car will behave, before I start changing the injectors.

Regards

Brunei Prado
 
buddy, listen up, you DO NOT have a PCV Valve. the gassers have a PCV, your engine does not have one...
that hose that you pointed out earlier is the only vent the engine has.

unless i have just had a serious mind fart this is factual.

block off the EGR system and be done with it, piss poor design to begin with...
 
Wayne,

Thanks mate. I will disable the EGR valve, we don't have any emmision test here anyway. We don't have any test here so the state some cars are in ....

Regards

Brunei Prado
 
Help!!

Help!!
I don't know what happened, but suddenly the black smoke turned blue!?!
I noticed the oil level was a bit down so I topped it up. After this the car started to smoke blue smoke, during iddle a little bit but while driving a lot.
The garage changed the oil a month ago and used Rimula-X, I topped it up (0.5 liter) with Helix Plus 15W-50. Can this be the cause of the sudden blue smoke?

Thanks
 
hummm,

the idea that it suddenly started to burn blue leads me to think that might be full syth oil in there now, is this the case?

could be the trubo seals are shot...or plugged.

stick a can of seafoam into the oil, drive it for about 50-100km then change theoil...this stuff can stink pretty bad if ti is getting into the combustion chamber...
if you have stuck seals or oil rings this can help...if the turbo seals really are completely gone or the valve seals are cracked then it will do nothing.

just an early morning suggestion
 
Wayne,

Rimula-X is mineral extra high performance diesel motor oil and Helix plus is an allround semi synthetic motor oil (got that from the internet).
So the top-up of half a liter of this Helix might cause the smoke?
(I hope).
I will try your suggestion and change the oil and filter again.
 
The way things are going your likely to have to get your engine rebuilt, especially with all these comments in here . You know of any specialist diesel shops around , even truck repair centre's ? go to one and as them to trace the problem , nothing else and ask how much it'll cost before they do it ! you need to tell them precisely what the symtoms are , as you can generally tell close to what the problem is by the symtom

Sounds like a similar problem with my 2LT , when ever it idles for over a 5 minutes , it blows heaps of white/grey smoke for a few minutes driving ( which spooks me ) so make sure don't idle it to warm up before i drive it , also under power it blows black smoke and there is excessive crank case ventilation , when i take off the rocker cover breather when its running to have a look , you see a mist of air and fine droplets oil coming out.

So my problem is rings are worn or cracked piston , etc . Have to freshn the motor with a flex-Hone - new rings , gaskets & seals Or a full rebuild !
 
What to do with disconnected feed line?

Hey guys, when making this closed circuit for circulating the seafoam/lube moly diesel purge, what do you do with the open diesel feed line from the tank once you have placed the one from the fuel filter into the bottle that makes the circuit? I realize the final injector return line completes the circuit, just unsure what to do with other half of now disconnected fuel feed line.
 
Back the bus up a little.

You say it smokes, what does the smoke look like? Does it smoke more on acceleration or even when idling?
Colour?
Smell?
 
Old thread, but I just purchased a 93 PRADO with 1kz-te, and it is showing oil at the same spot as op. What did you end up doing? Were the rings worn, causing the excessive blow-by? Did you end up permanently venting the breather hose to atmosphere? If possible, I don't want to invent the wheel...
 
10 year old post. He probably has a new car now. His mechanic told him it was the turbo and it probably was
 
Thanks for taking the time to respond roscoFJ73. Yeah, realize it's a very old post, but I have what sounds like the exact same issues as original post. I was also wondering if it was the turbo (used the presence of oil at the intake to negociate the price down further for a turbo replacement), but I also seem to have pressure coming from the dipstick, which makes me wonder if the rings are going -and if oil is coming around from vent hose. It drives a lot better than most here in Uganda (which may not being saying much as preventative maintenance seems to hardly exist), doesn't smoke much on steep hills - even accelearates up them, and is resposive to the trottle. I bought it knowing the engine may need to be rebuilt, but obviously would rather not.

I have not driven it much yet to see if it is consuming oil. The seller had the engine washed, and so after I drove it for 50km before buying, I looked under the hood again to see if there were any evidences of leaks. The one I saw was at the intake - looks to be leaking through the egr butterfly "shaft".

Along those lines, the vacuum line going to the egr was disconnected (which I assume renders it useless, which I have gathered is a good thing).

So, should I just leave the vacuum hose disconnected?

Do I need to remove or permanently open the egr butterfly?

Regarding the vent line coming from the valve cover - can I just vent it to atmosphere (as long as I don't go through deep water)? Or has anyone teed off the line to either vent to atmosphere or, if need be, valve it temporarily back to the turbo intake (if I'm crossing high water)?

I know many have mentioned catch cans, but I don't know if I can source them here.

If I just vent the breather from the valve cover to atmosphere, how have people capped off the inlet to the turbo?

I haven't opened the intake, but seeing the oil leaking out around the egr, I'm assuming it's dirty. Again, the vehicle seems to run well though.

I've read about water/alcohol injection for cooling/additional power, but how well would that clean out the carbon without having to open it up?

A lot of questions. Hopefully someone with a lot more experience can point me in the right direction!! Appreciate any wisdom others are willing to share!!
 
I would spend some money and get a compression test. How many klms on it?
 

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