Slider bolts...how to prevent rust? (1 Viewer)

[KLF]

Ya, I have both products here, and I would use Anti-Sieze on this application over the ARP stuff.

That's my truck in the BudBuilt video, and I know that Rob & Chip used Anti-Sieze liberally on all the bolts.

 

[Madtiger]

Ya, I have both products here, and I would use Anti-Sieze on this application over the ARP stuff.

That's my truck in the BudBuilt video, and I know that Rob & Chip used Anti-Sieze liberally on all the bolts.

What is the advantage of anti-sieze over ARP?

 

[CharlieS]

I think the ARP stuff is a temporary lubricant so you can get a consistent torque on fasteners. Antiseize is for preventing corrosion, galling, etc.

 

[iwashmycar]

All you have to do is Fluid Film your truck. Will keep it from rusting and keep it so those bolts will always come out!

 

[Fisher23]

anti-sieze the silver grease is painted on .. comes with a brush and bottle and it's used on lug nuts

green grease is more water proof, and either one will work. you only need it on the bolt threads

 

[nwfl4runner]

I think the ARP stuff is a temporary lubricant so you can get a consistent torque on fasteners. Antiseize is for preventing corrosion, galling, etc.

It ain’t temporary - 6 to 1, half dozen to other on antiseize versus ARP. I use it for everything not high temp, then it’s the gold goo

 

[Madtiger]

It ain’t temporary - 6 to 1, half dozen to other on antiseize versus ARP. I use it for everything not high temp, then it’s the gold goo

Sorry, i am not familiar with the terminology......but ARP is more permanent than anti-seize?

 

[nwfl4runner]

Sorry, i am not familiar with the terminology......but ARP is more permanent than anti-seize?

Sorry - what I meant is that it'll stay on the bolt/in the nut/hole, etc., just like anti-seize.

 

[CharlieS]

ARP Ultra-Torque

10 oz. Brush-top Bottle gets you within 5% of the required pre-load on the first pull and stays consistent with each subsequent cycle – race prep, machining, pre-assembly and final assembly!

ARP Ultra-Torque was developed to:

• Be more consistent with - Ultra-Torque
• Be more repeatable - Ultra-Torque
• Have no harmful contaminants
• Use ARP Ultra-Torque and achieve the target preload ON THE FIRST TORQUE CYCLE

ARP Ultra-Torque is Specifically designed as a fastener assembly lubricant for high performance engines

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Permatex Antiseize

A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion, and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant - ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E.

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You can probably slop any grease you want on there and it would prevent corrosion.

 

[KLF]

I would not count on Fluid Film to last as long as other products, it does eventually wash off. You really need to re-coat annually. I use the heck out of the stuff, but it is not permanent.

But ya anything on there is better than the stuff that they put on at the factory, which is NOTHING.

 

[4gotalot]

I used LPS 3 when installing new nuts and bolts for corrosion control and I also applied it to every riv-nut that was in the frame, even the ones that were not going to be used. I also hosed down the contact area ever the plates made contact with the frame. LPS 3 dries to a wax and lasts many more years than just greasy grease.

Make sure you put some LPS 3 on the cast "T" fittings for KDSS servicing ports located under the door and on the outside of the frame. It looks like they were made from the same cast material that the valve body was made from. The stuff is easer to work with and last longer than any other corrosion inhibitor that I have used so far. Its an industrial product so you won't see fancy advertising. The stuff just works and does not migrate.

 

[LALC]

@Taco2Cruiser did I order right by getting zinc anti-seize to use with budbuilt's aluminum skids and the stainless steel hardware?

 

[KLF]

You guys might find this interesting.



I think in general this fellow does a decent job of fairly comparing products. I'm not sure I like how he baked them in the grille for an hour though.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

@Taco2Cruiser did I order right by getting zinc anti-seize to use with budbuilt's aluminum skids and the stainless steel hardware?

Yep Yep. You're good.

For the group, my little opinion.

As some (most) of you guys know, I just love to test crap, and see all the bad things that can happen are. That said, I've lived in some rust areas and honestly, from a silver, zinc, copper anti-seize, it just works. Using blue loc-tite, I've seen rust get in there more than I would of expected.

Now that ARP ultra torque stuff, I love it. When I build a motor, I use it. Because for me, with getting torque values exact, when I'm trying to squeeze the equivalent of a 1/10th a second off a 1/4 mile time out of a motor, it helps. But I would not go out of my way to use it to keep fasteners from seizing when outside of a bath of oil.

At the end of the day, fasteners that are steel, rust. Whether it's the treads, or the fastener's head, it's going to rust. What matters is the fastener not getting stuck in the threads. So if someone was worried about fasteners themselves rusting, replace it with stainless fasteners and use anti seize. Problem solved, problem staying solved.

For general rust prevention, yeah know... I'm at 82 cruisers in the shop since in 16 months. And they all have rust on them. Fluid film, while a good product, as @KLF said, is not an apply and forget.

For me, I don't use that, or any film. I identify rust, I clean it with a phosphoric acid, and I paint it with Rustoleum Profession enamel semi-gloss. I have literally zero rust anywhere. On all the new 200s I've done, I enamel the welds when they come in for something (along with he KDSS junctions, its just the right things to do and it takes me about 30 minutes, so not a big deal).

Toyota doesn't clean their welds. The robots zip them, and then the frames take a bath. But you can see the gold-ish rust dots of a weld with a cruiser that has had only a month on the road, clear as day. The coating is falling off, because the welds were not cleaned, and the paint goes with it. Then the rust starts.

So use an anti seize on freaking everything (other than lug studs, not to say you can't, I just don't) and I clean and paint the frame as needed. Truck will last forever. But I've seen some sad frames covered in fluid film (frame that the owners said they have been religious about applying it yearly).

Oh, and paint inside the four front bump stop mounts. That area has two hold in them, but no drainage. They sit by a spinning wheel and fill with crud. They get rusted, QUICK. Blow them out is air, fill them with a chemical rust remover, and spray them with primer and enamel. It's sad how bad they can get.

 

[KLF]

Thanks for the insight Rob. I try to paint THEN I coat with something oil based, that doesn't wash off.

Stainless fasteners have a different set of rules. I used to be able to buy all my hardware from a shop that sells just that: hardware and the weird tools that go along with them. Unfortunately I moved too far away to frequent the place anymore. This is the place: Welcome to Samson Fasteners These guys know bolts and taught me a few things. They told me to not use anti-sieze on stainless bolts, that paraffin wax is much better. Stainless bolts will gall into the nuts if you spin them too fast and no lubricant, and paraffin wax is the best thing to use. I remember once they told me they sell stainless bolts and nuts by the bucket full to a boat builder, and the first thing they would do is dump a bunch of Future liquid floor wax into the bucket, put the lid back on, and roll the thing around to coat all the bolts. Keeps them from galling and seizing up. So now i keep a few bricks of canning paraffin in my toolbox must for doing this.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Thanks for the insight Rob. I try to paint THEN I coat with something oil based, that doesn't wash off.

Stainless fasteners have a different set of rules. I used to be able to buy all my hardware from a shop that sells just that: hardware and the weird tools that go along with them. Unfortunately I moved too far away to frequent the place anymore. This is the place: Welcome to Samson Fasteners These guys know bolts and taught me a few things. They told me to not use anti-sieze on stainless bolts, that paraffin wax is much better. Stainless bolts will gall into the nuts if you spin them too fast and no lubricant, and paraffin wax is the best thing to use. I remember once they told me they sell stainless bolts and nuts by the bucket full to a boat builder, and the first thing they would do is dump a bunch of Future liquid floor wax into the bucket, put the lid back on, and roll the thing around to coat all the bolts. Keeps them from galling and seizing up. So now i keep a few bricks of canning paraffin in my toolbox must for doing this.

I would have to respectfully disagree with some of that. Parafin wax releases toxic fumes when burnt and has a low melting point, about 100 degrees. Probably fine for securing components together on a boat that are far from a heat source, but under a hot off road truck? I don't think that would be beneficial.

Parafin wax is big in wood working as when it is on threads, bolts drive into wood much cleaner. But I've been using anti-seize on stainless steel bolts for about 25 years and have never, ever had a stainless bolt seize with anti seize on them. I've definitely seized a stainless bolts that didn't have anti-seize, oh yeah. Which is why I preach anti-seize with stainless.

I think like most things, people make products work or not. A boat builder, running fasteners in a fast as they can in an assembly line, yeah, those guys aren't slowing down. But working on your personally truck, that sees some hot temps (like the exhaust bolts, or any of those heat shields by the cats and fuel lines) where you can slow down, I would choose an anti-seize over a paraffin anyway. That's me though, doesn't mean that's the only way to skin a 200, yeah know.

I'm with you on a good paint, then a fluid film like thing. Those front bump stop mounts I mention earlier. After I cleaned and painted mine, they got filled with fluid film. It has its value in my opinion, I just think the fluid film needs to help also as the frames we all have, didn't come with enough of a paint coating on it from the get go if you ask me.