Slee Rear Bumper locking-pin remote release (1 Viewer)

[sonk76]

Has anyone here fabricated a remote release for the locking pin that sits next to the pivot points on the Slee rear bumper tire carrier and/or ladder (it locks each in closed and open position to prevent accidental opening/closing.)

While I only have the tire carrier on mine, in practice I've found the little extra effort required to get to the locking pin next to the pivot point every time I want to access my trunk to be a real annoyance.

Opening trunk requires:

1) Un-latch the tire carrier main latch
2) Walk around my 35" spare to pull up locking-pin (couple of steps to my right)
3) While holding locking-pin up with right hand, use left hand on spare tire spokes to pull out the tire carrier.
4) Step out of the way of the opening tire carrier (a step or to to my left) and push it all the way open until locking-pin engages
5) Access the trunk

While this may not sound like much, I really hate steps 2,3, and 4.

I would love to be able to un-lock the locking-pin from right next to the main latch, this way all the maneuvering around the spare tire would be eliminated and I would get a few seconds of my life back every time I need to access my trunk (which I honestly use MUCH less than I did prior to having the tire carrier, because of the process above.)


I've been toying with the idea of using bicycle parts (brake lines, shock lock-outs, etc.) to try to bring a "remote release" point for the locking-pin right next to he main latch. I have a few ideas in mind that I was going to try to model out, but before running down the road I wanted to make sure I wasn't re-inventing the wheel in case someone had already solved this riddle.

(p.s. I'm not interested in solutions that required eliminating the functionality of the lock-in/lock-out pin, as I do believe in the real safety benefits that it provides. I just want to make it more user friendly.)

Thoughts?

 

[paflytyer]

I've thought about the same, and I know Christo is looking into it for the new bumpers. Honestly, I don't even notice it anymore. It's maybe 3-6 seconds total to open the tire swing-out. More homebrew moving parts exposed to the elements means more maintenance and things to break. I like the idea, but the practicality of it takes away from the possible convenience.

Like you, I would never want to compromise the safety pin design. It's such a well thought out and built bumper. Clearly it's lasted the test of time. It's pretty rare that you hear anyone having problems with their Slee bumper.

 

[1loudLX]

I'll trade ya, no pins to worry about

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

I've thought about replacing the pin with a gas strut similar to the BIOR bumper. Not as secure as the pin, but it would prevent the swing outs from slamming.

 

[Kigiin]

Life in the 21st century can not involve inconveniences, even when self induced.

Maybe I have monkey arms but I don't need to move my feet from unlatching to pulling the pin.

 

[spressomon]

That's why I have two locking pins...one on each end of the swing arm. Problem solved.

 

[petrotk40]

the gas struts are pretty awesome.

 

[Kigiin]

That's why I have two locking pins...one on each end of the swing arm. Problem solved.

Dan, trying to picture how this helps the inconvenience? I can picture having the pin close to the latch, but am sure Slee thought of this and there was a downside?

 

[spressomon]

Slee used to have two hitch pins IIRC on the older 80-Series bumpers. I suspect he changed to single for simpler, less expensive and probably a bit less liability...

For me...hopping over the trailer tongues each time I needed to access the hatch/back was too inconvenient so I installed an outer hitch pin and welded the hole that was used to lock the outer pin when the swing arm was in the closed position. The spindle side lock holds the swing arm in the open position and the latch side pin locks the swing arm in the closed position.

Works great.

 

[sonk76]

Slee used to have two hitch pins IIRC on the older 80-Series bumpers. I suspect he changed to single for simpler, less expensive and probably a bit less liability...

For me...hopping over the trailer tongues each time I needed to access the hatch/back was too inconvenient so I installed an outer hitch pin and welded the hole that was used to lock the outer pin when the swing arm was in the closed position. The spindle side lock holds the swing arm in the open position and the latch side pin locks the swing arm in the closed position.

Works great.

I like it. Simple and effective. Is there a solution like this that doesn't involve welding? I don't have those tools or skills....

 

[spressomon]

If Christo will sell you the pin then its a relatively simple job of boring and burning it in...if I had to outsource it I'd take it to a custom hitch fabber if you don't have an off-road type shop handy. The spindle side is merely a quarter sized piece of steel welded in place and ground smooth.

Or drive it out here

 

[hoser]

The 2nd Gen Slee bumpers have this piece of stainless steel. For those welderless guys, one could probably just replace the SS with a larger, thicker piece to cover the outer hole?

Spresso, the added pin by the handle, how is it fastened? Drill and tap the hole or something more involved?

 

[petrotk40]

if you are going to take the time to install a new pin above the latch, I would highly recommend you just do away with the spindle pin and install a gas strut. BIOR uses a 100# one for the tire swingout and 50# for jerry can.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

if you are going to take the time to install a new pin above the latch, I would highly recommend you just do away with the spindle pin and install a gas strut. BIOR uses a 100# one for the tire swingout and 50# for jerry can.

I agree. I think it is a much more elegant solution than the pin. It may not last as long, but struts are easy to replace and cheap.

 

[spressomon]

The 2nd Gen Slee bumpers have this piece of stainless steel. For those welderless guys, one could probably just replace the SS with a larger, thicker piece to cover the outer hole?

Spresso, the added pin by the handle, how is it fastened? Drill and tap the hole or something more involved?

Yes one could easily fab a longer SS plate to accomplish the same thing.

The pin's housing is welded to the swing arm. The pin is held to the housing via threaded cap.

 

[hoser]

Ah, more involved indeed. You want to swap tire carriers? It'll be like a blank slate.

 

[spressomon]

No...I'm 100% happy so too bad

 

[duggy]

Bumping an old thread

This pin design is the only reason I cannot decide on the Slee. Other than that, it looks better than the other offerings out there other than the design of the complex pin lock system!

So far, I have seen the Slee and BIOR in person. the BIOR seems well made....but not as well as the Slee. The 4x4 labs I assume you'd have to cut off the rear cross member, something I am not willing to do again in case I sell this truck. The Slee's only downside is the pin lock system. I talked to Slee and they said since they have a shop fabricate their bumpers, changing plans would be a no-go. Bummer. These bumpers are expensive so I want it to be perfect the first time.

Spresso -

You don't have your fix for this documented somewhere do you?

 

[spressomon]

Spresso -

You don't have your fix for this documented somewhere do you?

Not a fab thread but starting at post #27 pics and rhetoric about same: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/169441-featured-100-spressomon-2.html#post2401119

Its not that big of a deal: Welder, drill press, electric hand drill, die grinder, drill bits doh and the pin assembly (not sure if this can be sourced from Slee now or not...).

Remove the swing arm. Mark and center punch the through bore hole...me thinks the OD of the pin housing was 1" but you need to measure it; drill the swing arm using the drill press. Test fit the pin housing to the bore you just made in the swingarm; file as necessary for snug fit. Chamfer both bore holes. TIG/MIG the pin housing to the swing arm.

Reattach the swing arm to the bumper. Measure and mark the bumper for the center of the hole that will need to be drilled for the locking pin; hit it with a center punch. Using a step drill...drill a slightly larger hole than the diameter of the pin at the center punch mark.

Weld a disk of ~1/8" thick steel about the diameter of a quarter in to the hole that was used for the lock pin on the hinge side; file, grind & sand the top to smooth (or get Slee to sell you the SS latch hole cover...or fab one...and screw/rivet in place over the now unused original hole).

Primer and paint all bare metal.

 

[duggy]

I'm following you here. I assume that the added pin is not what keeps the bumper snug but rather the de-staco latch, correct?