Slee/OME 6" Lift Installation 2026

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MUDZLLA

MUDZLLA

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
May 26, 2008
Threads
51
Messages
828
Location
Leduc County, AB
Pretty straightforward 6" lift installation. This was done exclusively on a 2-post lift while instructions call for being done on jack stands. The biggest difference is the axles need to be suspended from the frame using suitable cargo straps.

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Front sway bar bracket spacers didn't fit and needed to be modified by slotting one side...
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Hopefully these will do the job...
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These bad boys are next. The Slee control arms are about 1" longer (to help center the wheels, and around 5 degrees more caster correction than stock...
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Getting two bolts in is not tooo difficult but more effort is required to get all 3 bolts in. Mostly fiddling with a screw jack and a come along...
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Here i use the old control arm and a jack to twist the front axle into alignment
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Pulling forward with a secondary cargo strap...
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Bolts torqued to 127 ft-lbs per FSM. Rear axle next.
 
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Rear Stabilizer extension brackets. Took forever to work out the 12mm bolts so they didn't snap off.
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Those upper shock brackets are always fun. Gave them a bit of POR15 spray before reinstalling them.
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The LC bottle jack is handy for getting the new springs in...
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POR 15 on the lower spring pedestals - because you den't get access to those very often.
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If you loosen all your link and panhard bolts you can throw the springs in.

FWIW all your link and panhard bolts should be loosen and retorqued at ride height after installing a lift.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
If you loosen all your link and panhard bolts you can throw the springs in.

FWIW all your link and panhard bolts should be loosen and retorqued at ride height after installing a lift.
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Thanks. Good advice, and timely too!
 
Spent today doing the LSPV delete. Re-used the old brake lines to connect the new line to the old. Old sensing line flagged for deletion when the M10x1 plug shows up.
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MUDZLLA said:
Spent today doing the LSPV delete. Re-used the old brake lines to connect the new line to the old. Old sensing line flagged for deletion when the M10x1 plug shows up.
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Methinks you need a spacer on that e-brake cable too, sir.
 
Used a bottle jack (again) to line up the new, longer panhard....
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Hmmm had to unload the spring to get this bolt for the upper control arm out....
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Torquing up a bolt where the Torque Wrench won't fit...
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All done. Front Axle...
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Rear Axle...
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Rear Side view
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MUDZLLA said:
Torquing up a bolt where the Torque Wrench won't fit...
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Landcruiserphil is spot on - this needs to be tightened, along with all of the other bolts/nuts while the vehicle is being supported by the axle housing or sitting on the tires on the ground. Otherwise, you're pre-loading those bushings now, and they'll be twisted as soon as you put vehicle weight on the suspension.

That was a lot of work, nice job!!
 
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LandCruiserPhil said:
If you loosen all your link and panhard bolts you can throw the springs in.

FWIW all your link and panhard bolts should be loosen and retorqued at ride height after installing a lift.
Click to expand...
Why? Toyota FSM does not mention this. It seems to be common wisdom here in the MUD community (which I respect highly) but I've never done that before and have seen no adverse affects. Slee makes no mention of it in their procedure. Torquing the bolt in any position only anchors the bolt in position, the linkage is designed to rotate on the anchored bolt.
 
The why - The link bushing are encapsulated, when the suspension cycles the rubber is the only moving part. Torque your link anchor bolts with suspension hanging and drop it to ride height your bushing rubber is now under tension giving you a harsh ride and short bushing life.

As for the FSM, it does several times
HINT:
After stabilizing the suspension, torque the bolt.

As for why @sleeoffroad does not, maybe he can chime in.

Side note - consider our Sexy Severe Duty Rear Links


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That ride-height torquing tip is something people skip far too often. Got called out on it myself years back by an old-timer at a Vic. 4WD Club day — I'd done a 2" lift on an 80 and torqued everything with the axle hanging. He watched me drive off the stands and just shook his head.

Six months later the front end started to clunk and sure enough the upper control arm bushings had wound up half their travel already and were cracking. Had to redo the whole front end.

The rule I use now: lift it off the stands, roll it back and forth a few metres on flat ground to let everything settle, then torque. For anything rubber-bushed it makes a real difference in bushing life and ride quality. Polyurethane is a bit more forgiving but still better to torque it loaded.

One thing I'd add specifically for the 80 — the rear panhard bolt is easy to forget because it's awkward to get a torque wrench on it at ride height. Worth the extra time with a cheater setup. Nice clean install by the way.
 
I also sway the 80 side to side by jumping up/down on the sliders to help with the settling before torquing the hardware.
 
MUDZLLA said:
Why? Toyota FSM does not mention this. It seems to be common wisdom here in the MUD community (which I respect highly) but I've never done that before and have seen no adverse affects. Slee makes no mention of it in their procedure. Torquing the bolt in any position only anchors the bolt in position, the linkage is designed to rotate on the anchored bolt.
Click to expand...

See the hints on the FSM pages below:

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