i just dropped in a sbc in my 40 and i'm using the chevy bell housing and cluth with a tlc 3spd tranny. my slave cylinder piston keeps popping out when i try to use it. so my guess is that i need a longer throw slave in my truck. i was just wondering if anyone here had that problem and if anyone knew of a new slave i could use? thanks
slave cylinder help (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Fatkidrb
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pre 68 master 1" bore brake ( yes brake cyl) cylinder use in place of the 3/4 " bore clutch master..
it's a bolt in using the 3 bolt pre 68 Brake master.
my slave rod was seated ... with everything adjusted and I get about 1/2" to 3/4" more slave travel
using the larger bore master. More fluid pushes the slave farther but you have to have the slave
rod seated clear to the starting point. You will have plenty of throw . No more throw out bearing riding
on the clutch fingers.
I fought this prob for years until Fj Guru Mark Whatley gave me this info for SBC clutch problems. My clutch was always ready to pop out of the slave until I did the swap.
make sure your clutch fork and fork ball are new or extremely tight( wear = play).. I had tons of play on a worn clutch ball in the bellhousing.. $10 for a new one...
do a search.. I posted a bunch about this if it is the way you want to go. Just one option- I'm sure there are others such as only use AA $$ centerforce stuff.
-----------------
*edit a copy and paste from a former thread*
what clutch disc and PP are you using ?
If you read the LCML and IH8MUD and PBB .. there are so many opinions on what should be used on SBC to LC 4speed to resolve cluthc issue. You could read all day. AA has a solution but spendy using a custome centerforce unit.
I went throught the same trauma. Finally with the help of a freind that runs a trans shop we came up with a solution. Chevy Clutch disc's do not belong on the LC input shaft ( sort of ..read on). There are different. They will slide on and work but there is a difference in tapered VS straight cut splines . Also you should use a matched Clutch fork with T/o bearing. IIRC the curved cast Chevy fork goes with the short T/o bearing. The flat cast fork(SM465 truck) goes with the long T/O .. ( again CHevy )... since you are using a SBC bellhousing I'd go Chev with one exeption that makes a huge difference. I had the Toyota inner hub from a LC clutch disc mated to a Chevy 11" clutch outer disc. I used the curved cast fork and the short throw out bearing. I used the diaphram multi fingered short throw pressure palte . ( most common anyway) vs the hard to adjust 3 fingered PP. My guess is you have Toyota parts floating on the input shaft and a Toyota Clutch fork ... IMO , I would only use the Toyota input clutch hub and go Chevy the rest of the way as it was engineered.the splines are different on LC verses Chevy, lots of people ignore it anyway.. that's why we mated the Toyota inner hub to the Chevy disc.
One more thing.. make sure you have the ball pivot for the fork adjusted out if need be or if your ball pivot is worn like mine.. replace it. ( $2.50 Chevy part that get's ignored) and you will eliminate allot of play that can inhibit fork throw. Again I learned the hard way. Just make sure there is no play between the ball pivot and it's seat with the reatainer spring in place. You can't fix the pivot , fork problem while the B/H and tarns are mated so check while it's out.
Ask me again how I know.
I have a bunch of link to show the pain I went through to solve my similar problem. PM me if you want.
Oh.. I use a 69 Brake master on the clutch for more throw on the slave... Mark Whatley ( LCML) suggested that and it works well.
it's a bolt in using the 3 bolt pre 68 Brake master.
my slave rod was seated ... with everything adjusted and I get about 1/2" to 3/4" more slave travel
using the larger bore master. More fluid pushes the slave farther but you have to have the slave
rod seated clear to the starting point. You will have plenty of throw . No more throw out bearing riding
on the clutch fingers.
I fought this prob for years until Fj Guru Mark Whatley gave me this info for SBC clutch problems. My clutch was always ready to pop out of the slave until I did the swap.
make sure your clutch fork and fork ball are new or extremely tight( wear = play).. I had tons of play on a worn clutch ball in the bellhousing.. $10 for a new one...
do a search.. I posted a bunch about this if it is the way you want to go. Just one option- I'm sure there are others such as only use AA $$ centerforce stuff.
-----------------
*edit a copy and paste from a former thread*
what clutch disc and PP are you using ?
If you read the LCML and IH8MUD and PBB .. there are so many opinions on what should be used on SBC to LC 4speed to resolve cluthc issue. You could read all day. AA has a solution but spendy using a custome centerforce unit.
I went throught the same trauma. Finally with the help of a freind that runs a trans shop we came up with a solution. Chevy Clutch disc's do not belong on the LC input shaft ( sort of ..read on). There are different. They will slide on and work but there is a difference in tapered VS straight cut splines . Also you should use a matched Clutch fork with T/o bearing. IIRC the curved cast Chevy fork goes with the short T/o bearing. The flat cast fork(SM465 truck) goes with the long T/O .. ( again CHevy )... since you are using a SBC bellhousing I'd go Chev with one exeption that makes a huge difference. I had the Toyota inner hub from a LC clutch disc mated to a Chevy 11" clutch outer disc. I used the curved cast fork and the short throw out bearing. I used the diaphram multi fingered short throw pressure palte . ( most common anyway) vs the hard to adjust 3 fingered PP. My guess is you have Toyota parts floating on the input shaft and a Toyota Clutch fork ... IMO , I would only use the Toyota input clutch hub and go Chevy the rest of the way as it was engineered.the splines are different on LC verses Chevy, lots of people ignore it anyway.. that's why we mated the Toyota inner hub to the Chevy disc.
One more thing.. make sure you have the ball pivot for the fork adjusted out if need be or if your ball pivot is worn like mine.. replace it. ( $2.50 Chevy part that get's ignored) and you will eliminate allot of play that can inhibit fork throw. Again I learned the hard way. Just make sure there is no play between the ball pivot and it's seat with the reatainer spring in place. You can't fix the pivot , fork problem while the B/H and tarns are mated so check while it's out.
Ask me again how I know.
I have a bunch of link to show the pain I went through to solve my similar problem. PM me if you want.
Oh.. I use a 69 Brake master on the clutch for more throw on the slave... Mark Whatley ( LCML) suggested that and it works well.
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