Slave Cyl

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by WALoeIII, Jun 13, 2005.

  1. WALoeIII

    WALoeIII

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    In an ironic turn of events, my slave failed trying to pull out of the mufflershop (had a cheap flexy tube, got it fixed with a real deal bent tailpipe), so now its sitting at that shop. What is involved with fixing this though? I don't know much about the hydraulic system. Every time I let the clutch out a bit of fluid comes down on the floorboard, and the reservioir is dead.
     
  2. 2mbb

    2mbb SILVER Star

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    If you've got fluid dripping inside your truck it sounds like your cluch master cylinder is gone. The slave cylinder is mounted to the transmission bell housing. However, the general recommendation from this list is to replace both. If one goes, the other is probably not far behind. Replacing these is not too hard. Both the master and the slave are just held on by a couple of bolts and each has one hydraulic tube fitting. The most difficult part for me was getting under the dash to disconnect the master push rod from the clutch pedal. Follow the FSM for bleeding and adjusting when the new ones are installed. Bleeding is a two person job unless you use one of the "one man" tools that are available (pressure bleeders, check valves, etc.)
     
  3. WALoeIII

    WALoeIII

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    How much are these parts?
     
  4. chitown40

    chitown40

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    About $25-35 for the slave, and $30-50 for the master. Pretty inexpensive. Got mine from SOR and they were a perfect fit.
     
  5. 82-SOA-60

    82-SOA-60

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    With basic tools both are easy to replace.
     
  6. WALoeIII

    WALoeIII

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    Ok, so this is something I should fix myself. I do not have an FSM, I have the Hayes manual though, do you think this is sufficent?
     
  7. flowman

    flowman

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    I haven't done mine, but i just took a look at Hayes and it looks do-able. The 1980 FSM in online at birfield.com (under product manuals) ... take a look at it.
     
  8. sandcruiser

    sandcruiser

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    you can probably do the whole job without a manual.
    Better to replace both cylinders at the same time--- if one is great and the other one is worn, the worn one will die much quicker.

    Basically, you'll want to put something under the slave to catch fluid, then open up the bleeder valve and depress pedal to remove old fluid.
    Then detach hose at slave
    remove slave (two bolts, I think 14mm)
    hose will drip a little, so leave your catch container there.

    Then open the hood and open driver's door.
    From inside the cab you'll remove the pin that connects the fork to the clutch pedal. (there is a cotter pin, then another pin)
    then remove the nut on the inside of the firewall. I think 12mm
    From inside the hood you will disconnect the hardline from the master cylinder, gently bend it out of the way
    then remove the nut on the firewall

    pull the master out

    to reinstall, reverse the procedure.

    when all is connected, fill the reservoir with fluid
    bleed system (you'll want help for this part)

    and you're done

    I may have done it in different order than the manual, but probably close enough.
    Good luck!
     
  9. Dunbar

    Dunbar SILVER Star

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    Insufficient for a Cruiser owner. Despite what everyone says the best mod for you r truck is, it's the FSM. None other come close.

    Dunbar
     
  10. WALoeIII

    WALoeIII

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    I'm confused now, there are only two hydraulic cylinders correct? You are advocating I replace both? Or are there three (clutch master, slave and the master cyl?). I am downloading the Birfield manual, and my car is not with me, so it'll be a bit before I can look it up myself.
     
  11. 82-SOA-60

    82-SOA-60

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    You will want to replace the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder. You can replace the defective part only, but it seems typically when one goes the other is not far behind.

    Good luck!
     
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