Skidplate question, bending vs. welding

[Pinion]

I found a decent metal yard down the street from my house and I need to build a skidplate for the 40. I know it isnt terribly difficult to make one, but I was more curious as to the strength of it if I were to grind away some of the metal to make my bends (Since I dont have access to a brake), bend the metal and then weld the seam back in where the metal was ground away? I would be using 3/16 plate.

Is the welding going to be as strong or stronger than having it bent up?

 

[woody]

IMO, if you get a proper bevel in the weld area, it should have no effect on strength...my first skid was pieced/welded, and survived a great deal of abuse...

the critical issue is to ensure it covers everything on the t-case particularly, with mine it was impossible to contact the case directly since it was completely protected - any damage had to be from hitting the driveshafts.

 

[Pinion]

Thanks Woody, thats what I was thinking as well.

 

[HI^C]

got a press?


drain holes with plenty clearence along with enough room to get to the driveshaft bolts specifically the front.

 

[haystax]

I've bent up tanks and other guards with 3/16" if you want to grind the bevel into the steel that is fine but I just cut a slot with the plasma and leave about an inch of solid plate every 18" or so along the cut line to keep the two pieces together when you bend it - heat the tabs and it bends like tin foil. Makes a nice seam to fill with the MIG and light grinding cleans up the joint very well.

What does everyone do about sealing out brush/grass and mud from the front of the skidplate, especially aroung the exhaust?

Maybe it is just as easy to drop the whole skidplate when servicing the trans and T-case and make sure that all the debris is cleared out each time as it is to measure and line up drain holes - just my thoughts...

 

[woody]

I drop mine after every trip to get to the zerks on the u-joints and to inspect for anything "odd"...good excuse to hit with the pressure washer too.