Show off your Northeast/Midwest Rust-Free Hundy (1 Viewer)

[Kabanstva]

You have to flag @Kabanstva on these type of threads - it is a law or something like that!

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I like your sense of humor man! I would post something but I don’t drive the LX in the winter so I can’t really say the under coatings have done their job. Plus it’s all muddy and scuffed up underneath, not a show car undercarriage by any means haha!

I will say this, on my Sienna and LS that live outside and see winter salt daily, Fluid Film has definitely don’t it’s job. The only rust I’m seeing is some minor stuff on the control arms/axles and other stuff that’s exposed to heavy salt spray in the wheel well areas. It’s pretty minor l, the rest looks brand new, just heavily “greased up”.

I don’t see a point to apply this stuff every fall. Maybe just the areas around the wheels.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Never heard of this company - according to the map on their website, not only are they in New England but all over the world. From the looks of it they to a pretty good job - approximately how much does a yearly service cost?

I paid the local dealer to clean up the frame and undercarriage thoroughly (was very muddy) and coat everything in NHOil along with injecting clear lubricant in all cavities (get your mind out the gutter ). I paid $800 for the privilege.

I have used this business for a few other services in the past and have always been impressed their work. I understand that this towards the higher end of cost. You can definitely buy NHOil products and apply it yourself.

Oh, hi. RP-342 (Cosmoline) user here. I’m in Minnesota where winter is long and the salt and brine is nasty

I bought a 99% rust free, one-owner 2007 LX from NC in July 2021. I spent a couple hours and 6 cans coating any metal part under the truck in fall of 2021. I also filled each frame rail with a can of Fluid Film since it creeps far better than RP-342.

I used the little red plastic extensions plus a 360 degree nozzle on a 36” extension to reach hard to get spots. I am gearing up to do the yearly fall application again soon.

One winter down and it held up very well. Sorry for all words and no pics.

I am a big fan of Cosmoline RP-342. Once you spray it on, it is damn near impossible to take off and does a great job at preserving. I used it my last truck with extensive rust issues and it did surprisingly well to stop the rust creep!

 

[baltistyle]

I paid the local dealer to clean up the frame and undercarriage thoroughly (was very muddy) and coat everything in NHOil along with injecting clear lubricant in all cavities (get your mind out the gutter ). I paid $800 for the privilege.

I have used this business for a few other services in the past and have always been impressed their work. I understand that this towards the higher end of cost. You can definitely buy NHOil products and apply it yourself.



I am a big fan of Cosmoline RP-342. Once you spray it on, it is damn near impossible to take off and does a great job at preserving. I used it my last truck with extensive rust issues and it did surprisingly well to stop the rust creep!

Yes, cosmoline is the most long lasting of any of the solutions. I learned about this as most German cars have included this for decades. As this was my first go at this project, I wanted a little less permanent with the ability to remove if I wanted. I don’t believe cosmoline creeps as well unless very warm so I can spray the films I used a little more blindly.

After I coat this year it will probably be fine for a year or two. It’s really the stuff that gets blasted from water while driving where reapplication may be needed. Between this year and last, I will have not missed any spots. And, as for the black color of some of the coatings, I didn’t want that leaking out of every hole and all over. I can understand that for an already rusted truck.

And for about 60 bucks for the fluid, it’s not too bad on the wallet to repay as wanted vs needed. There’s no negative on any metal surface other than future need to clean. You will even find instances of people using these products on their painted exterior panels.

 

[ROAM]

Yes, cosmoline is the most long lasting of any of the solutions. I learned about this as most German cars have included this for decades. As this was my first go at this project, I wanted a little less permanent with the ability to remove if I wanted. I don’t believe cosmoline creeps as well unless very warm so I can spray the films I used a little more blindly.

After I coat this year it will probably be fine for a year or two. It’s really the stuff that gets blasted from water while driving where reapplication may be needed. Between this year and last, I will have not missed any spots. And, as for the black color of some of the coatings, I didn’t want that leaking out of every hole and all over. I can understand that for an already rusted truck.

And for about 60 bucks for the fluid, it’s not too bad on the wallet to repay as wanted vs needed. There’s no negative on any metal surface other than future need to clean. You will even find instances of people using these products on their painted exterior panels.

In a pinch regular ole WD-40 works too! It was developed in the early 50s to displace water and stop corrosion on rockets.
All of my rockets and ICBM's are in pristine condition despite the Boston winters. $4 a can.

 

[MongooseGA]

All of my rockets and ICBM's are in pristine condition despite the Boston winters. $4 a can.

I feel like there's a lot of context missing for a statement like this.


How do I get my own collection of ICBMs?

 

[ROAM]

I feel like there's a lot of context missing for a statement like this.


How do I get my own collection of ICBMs?

If you don't wrench on or tune the ICBM's yourself, it gets expensive pretty quick. Any indi shop can handle the rockets tho!

SPACE is the big issue...never enough.

 

[baltistyle]

In a pinch regular ole WD-40 works too! It was developed in the early 50s to displace water and stop corrosion on rockets.
All of my rockets and ICBM's are in pristine condition despite the Boston winters. $4 a can.

Yes and people use used transmission oil, heated Vaseline, and used motor oil. The formulated products last longer and work better through exposure. Wd would not last through one storm. Salt and abrasion are a real bear and lots of better products have been created in the last 70 years…

I’m sure your bm’s are beautiful.

 

[Mariouscg]

Here’s mine:
2006-2009 resided in Southern California initial registration was Newport Beach CA.
2009-2019 Houston TX based.
2019-present Las Vegas NV based.
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Maintenance: annual 8-10 hour undercarriage detailing esp after NorCal/Lake Tahoe holiday trips.

Oh so that is how it is supposed to look like.. Wow that is awesome you have super pro bushing in yours? how do you like those

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Oh so that is how it is supposed to look like.. Wow that is awesome you have super pro bushing in yours? how do you like those

Yes those are super pro bushings and going on two years now. I find them a tad bit firm than OEM, it took a couple of months for me to get used with them. I think that’s the trade off with a “lifetime” part.

 

[stonepa]

My 100 has lived on the shore of the North Pacific Ocean since i bought it new in 1998. A few winters in Mexico and farther south as well. Finally, after 440k miles I decided to pressure wash the underside of the truck. After getting through all the concreted rocks, sand, and mud under there it looks pretty solid. A few bits of surface rust near welds and on the front control arms. But as solid as new. So what to do next for a little touch up? Rustoleum Rust Convertor? Some of the various Eastwood products? Any experience with those? I hope to get a lot more years out of this old beast.

Note: for the last few winters they have started using salt and brine near me. I have no idea why since everyone that sticks around through the winter has the tires and know how to drive on icy roads but who knows. I guess the state and borough governments must be swimming in cash. So I want to make sure everything is protected.

If the experience goes well I have a 60 in my boat shed that will get the treatment next.

 

[whitec13]

OK, I'll play ball. 2001 imported from SoCal last year. Immediately covered in NHOil treatment and so far has survived the first winter just fine!

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I can’t be the only one who noticed that tank skid, what’s the details on that? Excellent undercarriage by the way.

I won’t burn out any eyes with pics of my 22 year old southern Michigan undercarriage lol.

 

[baltistyle]

My 100 has lived on the shore of the North Pacific Ocean since i bought it new in 1998. A few winters in Mexico and farther south as well. Finally, after 440k miles I decided to pressure wash the underside of the truck. After getting through all the concreted rocks, sand, and mud under there it looks pretty solid. A few bits of surface rust near welds and on the front control arms. But as solid as new. So what to do next for a little touch up? Rustoleum Rust Convertor? Some of the various Eastwood products? Any experience with those? I hope to get a lot more years out of this old beast.

Note: for the last few winters they have started using salt and brine near me. I have no idea why since everyone that sticks around through the winter has the tires and know how to drive on icy roads but who knows. I guess the state and borough governments must be swimming in cash. So I want to make sure everything is protected.

If the experience goes well I have a 60 in my boat shed that will get the treatment next.

First a converter or sand convert and paint. Then one of the various oil or wax products, each for their own best uses. It will last forever as evidenced by many treated rigs on this site that see salt and brine. Brine is sticky and overused. The old dirt probably protected the frame a bunch but that would have changed with brine introduced. Five years of salt on a surface that has started to rust is very detrimental if you like a clean underbody.