Show me your subwoofers. (1 Viewer)

[Pyrenees]

I've been doing extensive research into replacing the stock non-nav ML stereo in my 2001 LX 470. I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to replace all the speakers, except the stock 6" sub on the left rear. I want to drive the door speakers directly from a headunit and bypass the ML amp, remove the ML amp and stick a new amp in its hole to power an aftermarket sub.

I'm thinking about a 10" single sub in an enclosure in the rear of the car. I saw one post where they integrated terminals, I thought that was pretty cool in case I wanted to remove the sub at some point for space. An 8" sub would be acceptable if there's a convenient place to shove it under a seat or something. The more hidden/slim it is, the better. I don't want a dual 12" box in my car or something.

What subs do you guys have? Can you share some pics and let me know how you like them? I don't need a technical discussion on this thread (unless you want to), I just want to see what people are using.

Thanks!

 

[FXJ 96]

I am interested as well, I've had a Rockford Fosgate P300-10, which is a powered sub with built in amp, sitting around forever. I have a 2006 LC so I can't change out the head unit like I did in my old FZJ80, and therefore was planning to wire the powered sub off the audio lines feeding the factory sub - just extend them out of the factory enclosure to the powered sub enclosure. I'd then have the stock amp and built in amp providing power to the sub, I have no idea if thats good bad or makes no difference once you control amp power levels. I'm also not sure the best route for the power cable to the battery and was hoping to find what others have done, but haven't found power cable routing details in the subwoofer threads I've looked at so far. I did read that some just put a new sub enclosure that was NOT powered and state the factory AMP is plenty to power the new subs and they are an improvement over OEM.

 

[krice118]

Here is my goofy design when I was concerned about being able to keep the 3rd row seats that have never been used.....

sorry for teh crappy iphone 4 pics- pulled these from an old thread

 

[suprarx7nut]

I've been using an Alpine Type R 8" in an "off-the-shelf" sealed enclosure from Crutchfield. It's been great, but I'm now looking to replace it with two 10" Focal or Audiofrogs in a sealed box.

My 8" box fits under the SS1 platform and so will the new 10" box. Something that fits under the seat will be pretty weak.

@FXJ 96 I'm not sure I follow your wiring plan, but I'd consider how you can control the signal going to your sub. The OEM power wires are pathetic for an aftermarket sub. The signal from the OEM amp to the OEM subs will be pretty different than what you'd want to send to an aftermarket sub. The OEM sub is more of a mid-bass range where you'd want actual sub-bass for your aftermarket sub.

I'd ditch the factory wiring altogether and run all new lines for the sub.

 

[FXJ 96]

I've been using an Alpine Type R 8" in an "off-the-shelf" sealed enclosure from Crutchfield. It's been great, but I'm now looking to replace it with two 10" Focal or Audiofrogs in a sealed box.

My 8" box fits under the SS1 platform and so will the new 10" box. Something that fits under the seat will be pretty weak.

@FXJ 96 I'm not sure I follow your wiring plan, but I'd consider how you can control the signal going to your sub. The OEM power wires are pathetic for an aftermarket sub. The signal from the OEM amp to the OEM subs will be pretty different than what you'd want to send to an aftermarket sub. The OEM sub is more of a mid-bass range where you'd want actual sub-bass for your aftermarket sub.

I'd ditch the factory wiring altogether and run all new lines for the sub.

It's a powered sub, planned to have dedicated power run to the battery - was hoping for routing suggestions.

As far as audio, I did intend to just use the wires currently feeding factory sub and extend them out of panel to the new sub enclosure behind third row. The factory head unit doesn't have a dedicated subwoofer out, and I wouldn't know which wires to grab pre-factory amp to run back to the new sub - I'm a hack.

 

[jsigone]

I run a Kicker 10" sub in a slim enclosure butted behind the 2nd row. Top dimension is only 4" deep with the power ports and air ports on the sides. It's butted behind a homedepot storage bin and Rtic45 cooler. Doesn't take up much usable space back there. I can take some pics tonight. I have a Kenwood 900watt 5way amp running all speakers and sub

10" CompC Subwoofer Enclosure | KICKER®

 

[jsigone]

BTW if you figure out how to bypass the 01' ML amp, please post up which wires you connected to what. I still have both amps installed because I couldn't bypass it.

 

[Pyrenees]

BTW if you figure out how to bypass the 01' ML amp, please post up which wires you connected to what. I still have both amps installed because I couldn't bypass it.

Oh believe me, my friend. When I do this project it will be fully documented. I don't want people to have to fish around for info like I've been doing. To the best of my knowledge thus far, the headunit requires a ground and accessory 12V+ rom the amp so if you pull the amp you get no power to the HU. So the question becomes, which circuit behind the dash can I run the stereo power from? Presumably the fuse location that previously powered the amp, since there won't be an old amp there anymore. I can find a ground, no problem. Maybe if I can find the pinout from the amp and splice it there, it will work. Dunno.

 

[jsigone]

When I pulled the amp, I got power to the Head unit, everything worked FINE with the key in minus power mirrors. When i removed the Key is when it got interesting, the circuits to the Dome lights, door locks were dead. I thought I had shorted something so removed the battery and tested the circuit with the stereo. The powerline/grnd circuits are completed thru the ML amp.

I tested and ohmed out everything I could. Found the consistant 12 and switched 12 on the amp side, but couldn't find the line In of those pins.
Consistant 12 is the Blue/Yel on the top left corner of left connector shown. switched 12 is the light purple wire on top left corner of right connector.

I should have cracked open the amp case to see the copper routing but was tire and spent too much time on it and was pretty tired, install the factory amp next to the small 5way amp. I'm stuck with some GND wire buzz at low volumes.

here are the two amp, my 01 LX had wire connectors for the left two plugs, I'm not sure if the right two plugs are for the Land Cruiser or base model LX harness. If so, we can backtrack the wiring schematic on FAQ to ohm out which pins on the LX ML harness on the left.

 

[LX470Beast]

Here is my sub. No room taken. Stock location. Its JL 13" shallow mount. Being pushed by PPI A600 Located under front passenger seat.

 

[Pyrenees]

@LX470Beast

Whoa. How... how'd ya do that?

 

[LX470Beast]

If you intent is to keep the stock radio get a summing device and get the signal from the output side of the ML amp. Summing device will combine all the frequency as inputs from all the output speakers and gives you a pretty wide range frequency for the aftermarket amps (full range). I did this for years and it actually sounded decent from my 2004 LX. Make sure you cut the microphone that listens and control the sound quality within the cabin. Ask me how I know..... I replaced all the speakers with focals and had two 12" JL subs in the truck and with 1200 watt of power. We could not figure out why it would not hit. Mid bass missing and all (signal coming from factory stereo and amp using summing device). It sounded like the system was canceling each other. $4000 later sounded nasty, factory system sounded better, told stereo shop to remove everything and put it back to stock. Then we cut the wire (mic) below (took a month to solve). Think about it the factory sub was 6" or maybe 8" and physically impossible to get 50-80hz so the ML system will cut it out. Just saying..... This was also true with my 2013 IS-F with ML system. That one took almost 8 months to figure out, in that case it wasn't a mic, it was sensor that measure the vibration on the back panel behind the rear seats (not the rear tray). In ISF case it would sound really good when the truck/rear door open (so it sounded good at stereo shop) The minute you close rear door and trunk the car sounded like crap.

 

[Pyrenees]

So that's what the thing on the ceiling is...

 

[LX470Beast]

@LX470Beast

Whoa. How... how'd ya do that?

Had my stereo guy build it. Known him for like 20 years. One of the best in business for fabrication using fiberglass. Here is my build thread

Successfully Moved Navigation Screen To Make Room Pioneer AVIC-8200

 

[TheForger]

I have a JL Audio HO110RG-W3v3. Pretty pricey for just a 10" sub in a ported enclosure, but it appealed to me because the back of the enclosure is angled so it fits tightly up against the back of the second row seats in their normal position. Therefor, taking up very minimal space (relative of course) and I can always pack everything I need for a weekend trip around it and still have additional storage available. Plus the sub itself is protected by those aluminum bars across the front. Even though it's just a 10", it's part of their "High Output" line of audio products so it feels more like a 12" or 15".

 

[KillerBox]

This is my box in a 2001 LX

 

[SouthJerseyJim]

This is my box in a 2001 LX

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Jesus H christ. Where do you store things for a camping trip?

 

[KillerBox]

Jesus H christ. Where do you store things for a camping trip?

Camping? I haven’t went camping in over 35 years but, I enjoy good sounds daily!

 

[Gdub216]

Here is my sub. No room taken. Stock location. Its JL 13" shallow mount. Being pushed by PPI A600 Located under front passenger seat.

View attachment 1773175

Is your PPI A600 a 5 channel pushing all 4 speakers and sub? or a 2 channel dedicated to the sub?

 

[Pyrenees]

I should probably mention in this thread for posterity, I completed my DIY Mark Levinson amp bypass/stereo install, in case anyone stumbles across this thread:

DIY: 2001 LX 470 Apple CarPlay stereo install, Mark Levinson Amp Removal, Speaker Replacement

Overview: I replaced the stereo, replaced speakers and bypassed the amp in my 100-series cruiser (2001 Lexus LX 470). I installed a Sony Apple CarPlay headunit and Alpine component speakers and removed the factory amp. The instructions are below. NOTE: I took so many photos that I realized if...

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