Should I replace UCAs? (1 Viewer)

[vegasguzzi]

2000 LC with 114k. Tie rod ends are shot. I have a tough dog 2.5 inch lift on the truck and I am wondering if I should replace the UCAs while it is apart? I’m sure the bushings will need to be replaced but should I bite the bullet and replace the UCAs?

 

[bgolf247]

Which tough dogs do you have up front?

 

[gregnash]

With a 2.5" lift you are probably right at the extreme edge of being able to align the steering properly with the current setup. New AM UCAs will allow for proper alignment being much easier in the future from my reading (don't quote me on that) and thus would probably be a good idea.
Along with that, since you have a larger lift you really should look into a diff drop kit to help out the CV Axle angles in the front to help stave off unnecessary wear.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I have a 2.5" TD lift on my truck and have been running OEM UCAs for a while. I had no issues with alignment and they improved the ride and handling by a LOT!

 

[vegasguzzi]

With a 2.5" lift you are probably right at the extreme edge of being able to align the steering properly with the current setup. New AM UCAs will allow for proper alignment being much easier in the future from my reading (don't quote me on that) and thus would probably be a good idea.
Along with that, since you have a larger lift you really should look into a diff drop kit to help out the CV Axle angles in the front to help stave off unnecessary wear.

Diff drop is done. Alignment didn’t seem to be an issue. Been running OEM for 2 years since the lift.

 

[vegasguzzi]

Which tough dogs do you have up front?

53’s on the front

 

[JunkCrzr89]

If you suspect the bushings and ball joints need replaced, then just buy new control arms. The time spent and frustration incurred while Swapping the bushings is not worth the money saved, IMO.

Also, x3 on the OEM UCAs with a “lift”. For our torsion bar front ends, Aftermarket UCAs that provide “more adjustability” or “more travel” are a marketing gimmick...The OEMs work just fine.

 

[nissanh]

Are you sure about the mileage on your truck? 114K miles is too low to see worn out tie rods in a toyota. I still have OEM tie rods in my LC at 240K miles, 4Runner at 216 K miles and corolla 280K miles.

Bushings are cheap but takes bearing separator tool and a press to get it done right. Do you have those tools with you? If you don't want to buy those, then OEM upper arms are the way to go.

 

[suprarx7nut]

If you suspect the bushings and ball joints need replaced, then just buy new control arms. The time spent and frustration incurred while Swapping the bushings is not worth the money saved, IMO.

Also, x3 on the OEM UCAs with a “lift”. For our torsion bar front ends, Aftermarket UCAs that provide “more adjustability” or “more travel” are a marketing gimmick...The OEMs work just fine.

Are you sure? I've seen alignment reports where adjustment was maxed on OEM arms and it was still out. 1.5" lift or so seems to be fine, but more than that and I think the adjustment needed can drift outside of limits.

 

[bgolf247]

53’s on the front

Due to the size of these I did have some near touching of the OEM UCA onto my shocks. Since these shocks are a little longer they do allow for more droop which can result in a clearance issue with the OEM UCA. You might check to see if you are getting contact at full droop. I got about 3/4" additional droop going to the longer and bigger TD shocks and I got about 1/4" additional droop with Nitro UCAs plus much better clearance from the shock

.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Are you sure? I've seen alignment reports where adjustment was maxed on OEM arms and it was still out. 1.5" lift or so seems to be fine, but more than that and I think the adjustment needed can drift outside of limits.

21” in the front and I’ve had no issues. Other commenters above have no issues. None of my buddies have issues. Anyone going more than 1.5” “lift” in the front is a psychopath!

 

[suprarx7nut]

21” in the front and I’ve had no issues. Other commenters above have no issues. None of my buddies have issues. Anyone going more than 1.5” “lift” in the front is a psychopath!

Oh, ok, well I think that's the difference. The customary 2.5" "lift" that folks target may be the problem. I agree more than 1.5" lift in the front is crazy, but that seems more common than not.

When I lifted my 99, I kept it real conservative and that still seemed like plenty. It was probably only lifted 1" over factory.

 

[vegasguzzi]

If you suspect the bushings and ball joints need replaced, then just buy new control arms. The time spent and frustration incurred while Swapping the bushings is not worth the money saved, IMO.

Also, x3 on the OEM UCAs with a “lift”. For our torsion bar front ends, Aftermarket UCAs that provide “more adjustability” or “more travel” are a marketing gimmick...The OEMs work just fine.

Seems like sound advice. I’m not rock crawling or beating the hell out of the suspension.

 

[vegasguzzi]

Seems like sound advice. I’m not rock crawling or beating the hell out of the suspension.

Are you sure about the mileage on your truck? 114K miles is too low to see worn out tie rods in a toyota. I still have OEM tie rods in my LC at 240K miles, 4Runner at 216 K miles and corolla 280K miles.

Bushings are cheap but takes bearing separator tool and a press to get it done right. Do you have those tools with you? If you don't want to buy those, then OEM upper arms are the way to go.

I’m sure on mileage. The heat of the south has just torn up every rubber bit.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

@vegasguzzi heat in the Southwest destroyed every rubber part on my 100, too. I'm still working on replacing all of the weatherstripping, etc...

 

[jLB]

Anyone going more than 1.5” “lift” in the front is a psychopath!

I agree more than 1.5" lift in the front is crazy

I guess I should be happy, that I'm only 1/3 crazy/psychopath

 

[kevin2i]

Replace. Job is 20 minutes per side (or less). Ball joint: 4 wacks on one, 6 on the other to pop the ball joints out (5 lb sledge).
I replaced my cheap rock-auto with. . . . cheap rock auto. Probably not a good choice for rock crawling, but I got 130k miles out of the first set, and at under $40/ea on sale will try again. Marked the adjustment bolts to keep alignment approx. the same., and it tracks ok, but will get alignment. One bushing was shot, could see play rocking tire at 12 / 6 position.

Was considering upgrading UCA's but I only have 1-1.5" lift.

Kevin.

EDIT: the ‘cheap’ Ultra Power Rock auto house brand *might* be the same as beck/arnley, moog, etc, or maybe not. I stick with Denso/OEM for anything electric/electronic or serious labor (steering rack, starter, lower ball joints, etc.). Since these are so easy to replace, figured I would try again. After 130k on the first set of cheap UCA’s, my upper ball joints were fine, just the UCA bushings shot.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

21” in the front and I’ve had no issues. Other commenters above have no issues. None of my buddies have issues. Anyone going more than 1.5” “lift” in the front is a psychopath!

Ahem, I must be psychopath then , I got legit 23.5" on the front and still running OEM UCA with a diff drop bracket.
IIRC, I got about 2⁰ caster on the fronts

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Ahem, I must be psychopath then , I got legit 23.5" on the front