Should I proactively replace a 2003 GX470 fuel pump at 250,000 miles?

[OwnerCS]

I like to proactively replace fuel system components before the end of average expected service life. I've replaced the fuel pumps on my Tacoma and 100 at approximately 250,00 miles or 25 years. Planned maintenance is easy for me to schedule and costs way less over the long haul. The GX requires the tank to be dropped to change the pump.
Am I rushing this operation one or should I wait until next spring when the weather would allow me to take this without causing a scheduling conflict in fall off-roading?

I just finished a mid-life refresh with a long list of components included in our 2UZFE baseline process.

 

[Rednexus]

I'd personally leave it alone until it is convenient, unless you have a big/remote trip planed where fuel pump failure would be a major issue.

You could also check the fuel pressure and see how it compares to the allowable ranges in the FSM. Perhaps if it's near the bottom of acceptable, you could go ahead and replace it (as it may indicate clogging of the filter sock). I installed a new banjo bolt in my fuel rail with a 1/8 NPT threaded hole, which allowed me to install a brass Schrader valve to check the fuel pressure.

 

[OwnerCS]

I'd personally leave it alone until it is convenient, unless you have a big/remote trip planed where fuel pump failure would be a major issue.

You could also check the fuel pressure and see how it compares to the allowable ranges in the FSM. Perhaps if it's near the bottom of acceptable, you could go ahead and replace it (as it may indicate clogging of the filter sock). I installed a new banjo bolt in my fuel rail with a 1/8 NPT threaded hole, which allowed me to install a brass Schrader valve to check the fuel pressure.

I think that is a great idea. I would like to install one of those banjo bolt adapters on all three of my 2UZ engines.

 

[Rednexus]

I think that is a great idea. I would like to install one of those banjo bolt adapters on all three of my 2UZ engines.

I used the one linked below, along with an all-brass tank valve with some thread sealant on it. No leaks and it's been in there for several years.

Amazon.com: RUSSELL/EDEL 640700 Fuel Pressure Take Off Banjo Belt : Automotive

Buy RUSSELL/EDEL 640700 Fuel Pressure Take Off Banjo Belt: Fittings - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[fjc-man]

When you’re north on 200,000 miles, that pump has done its job and doesn’t owe you anything. Do it, I replaced mine and the strainer sock at 210,000 miles. Don’t get stranded at a really inconvenient spot and have to arrange a tow and everything that goes with that kick yourself in the @ss moment.

 

[OwnerCS]

When you’re north on 200,000 miles, that pump has done its job and doesn’t owe you anything. Do it, I replaced mine and the strainer sock at 210,000 miles. Don’t get stranded at a really inconvenient spot and have to arrange a tow and everything that goes with that kick yourself in the @ss moment.

I agree. Actually, on my 100 I carry a spare fuel pump for other people who may be riding with me. But that is is easy to change.

 

[Stonefoot72]

Broke my first tank strap bolt in the frame and went for the alternative... I pulled the carpet back and carefully opened up the too-small access hole over the pump and pulled it through the top. Used duct tape to line the sharp edges where the harness comes through into the cabin. Placed an oversized piece of sheet rubber over it and placed the carpet back down. Whole job took maybe 2 hours. Cutting wheel makes a mess, and cutting in the cabin and near the tank may not be for everybody, but I'd do it again 10/10. I definitely feel I came out ahead. There's already a hole there anyway, you're just making it 1/3 bigger.

That was a couple of years ago and havent thought about it again until your post.

 

[GXO]

If you can afford to do the PM....do it.

 

[OwnerCS]

Broke my first tank strap bolt in the frame and went for the alternative... I pulled the carpet back and carefully opened up the too-small access hole over the pump and pulled it through the top. Used duct tape to line the sharp edges where the harness comes through into the cabin. Placed an oversized piece of sheet rubber over it and placed the carpet back down. Whole job took maybe 2 hours. Cutting wheel makes a mess, and cutting in the cabin and near the tank may not be for everybody, but I'd do it again 10/10. I definitely feel I came out ahead. There's already a hole there anyway, you're just making it 1/3 bigger.

That was a couple of years ago and havent thought about it again until your post.

I actually have an extra round cover from a 100 series. I'm thinking about expanding the hole to be 100 size and using that cover so it would look somewhat factory.

 

[Rednexus]

If/when I do it, I'll 100% cut a hole from the top, and DIY make a cover out of some 16 ga steel. My rig has been modified and cut enough there is not much to lose in trying to keep things OEM .