Did you get the 3rd back? Everything torqued to spec?
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- Thread starter 1FZj80
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- Thread starter
- #22
yes got it back.
ProGear screwed up and did not correctly route the plug harness between the locker motor and diff housing. So, I took it back for them to fix. Just got home with it and will check torques and work on install. The yellow grease/paint is on the gears showing the contact pattern and it looks fine to me, but i'm no expert...
I don't anticipate any problems, diffs are their business, so other than the harness issue expect it to back in the way it came out
ProGear screwed up and did not correctly route the plug harness between the locker motor and diff housing. So, I took it back for them to fix. Just got home with it and will check torques and work on install. The yellow grease/paint is on the gears showing the contact pattern and it looks fine to me, but i'm no expert...
I don't anticipate any problems, diffs are their business, so other than the harness issue expect it to back in the way it came out
- Thread starter
- #23
he did give me a beak-in procedure of driving for 15 to 20 minutes and then allowing cool down 4 or 5 times before I actually do any wheeling.
Does this seem normal, typical? anything else i should do before a trip or using the front locker?
Does this seem normal, typical? anything else i should do before a trip or using the front locker?
From the Yukon installation instructions:
"All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent overheating damage. Any overload- ing or overheating will break down the gear oil, which will cause the ring and pinion to fail. This can be determined by inspection and will void the gears’ warranty.
Please follow these guidelines to insure proper break-in.
Avoid heavy acceleration during the break-in process.
Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15 to 20 miles and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
Avoid heavy acceleration for the first 100 miles.
Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing to retain the gears’ warranty.
When towing for the first time, drive for a very short distances (less than 15 miles) with the full load and stop. Let the differential cool for about 20 minutes before proceeding.
Repeat this procedure two more times (45 miles total) to fully break in the gears.
Change the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear set during the gears’ break-in period.
These towing instructions may seem unnecessary to most people, but we have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was fully broken-in. "
https://www.yukongear.com/downloads/manuals/yukon_general_installation_instructions.pdf
"All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent overheating damage. Any overload- ing or overheating will break down the gear oil, which will cause the ring and pinion to fail. This can be determined by inspection and will void the gears’ warranty.
Please follow these guidelines to insure proper break-in.
Avoid heavy acceleration during the break-in process.
Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15 to 20 miles and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
Avoid heavy acceleration for the first 100 miles.
Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing to retain the gears’ warranty.
When towing for the first time, drive for a very short distances (less than 15 miles) with the full load and stop. Let the differential cool for about 20 minutes before proceeding.
Repeat this procedure two more times (45 miles total) to fully break in the gears.
Change the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear set during the gears’ break-in period.
These towing instructions may seem unnecessary to most people, but we have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was fully broken-in. "
https://www.yukongear.com/downloads/manuals/yukon_general_installation_instructions.pdf
- Thread starter
- #26
^^
Those break in procedures are BS. 99% of 4 wheel drive trucks are part time (i.e. the front diff isn't spinning) and the front diff gears get abused their first time out. When I regeared my land cruiser to 5.29's I wheeled John Bull the next day without following any break in procedure. Also, think about all of the new gear sets put in by Mr. T himself. They don't get run in at the factory, you buy the car and just drive it. I think when the gears are setup properly to tight tolerances, and you have a good quality gearset, a break in period isn't really required. Also, I ran my 4runner gears without any break in period as well, mainly because there was no way I could reasonably put 500 miles on a part time setup. Just my 2 cents, although it can't hurt, I honestly dont see the point if they have been setup well.
I should add that I believe in changing the gear oil at 500 miles, I definitely did that.
How long does it take to remove both 3rd with e-lockers with no helper?
1 hour for the rear (you don't even have to take the tires off).
3 to 4 hours for the front.
It helps to have a transmission jack to get the rear 3rd out. It is significantly heavier than the front.
3 to 4 hours for the front.
It helps to have a transmission jack to get the rear 3rd out. It is significantly heavier than the front.
- Thread starter
- #31
well.... i think that's the point. since it is a full time AWD, it is recommended to perform a break-in. i have no idea on the machining tolerances between oem Toy and aftermarket Nitro, but i see no down side to doing whatever i can to get a few heat cycles in the gears and take it easy while normal wear allows the gears to 'seat'. if is does nothing, i see no loss in it. if it helps, great.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Disagree. The fronts can easily be broken in somewhat by locking the hubs and driving around. They'll wear on the coast side when driving and on the drive side when breaking. It isn't much but it's still helpful. Also remember most off roading is done at low speed. Less speed = less heat. Very different from high speed full power on the freeway. And @1FZj80 has an 80 so his front is always turning.
I think the factory gets away with it because they don't set the gears up quite as tight, with lighter bearing preloads, and most people with a new car do go easy for a bit.
I'd recommend you break in a new after market gear set for sure. Just because you got away with it once, doesn't make it good practice.
This is my recommendation:
My conservative break in procedure: (AutoZone 80W-90 in 5 gallon pail-cheap and suitable)
Drive under 5 miles of normal city low speed traffic and park.
Then normal city traffic, short trips and no freeway for 100 miles. On (light)and off throttle as much as possible
At 100 miles, drain and fill diff oil-looking for problems-metal, dark oil etc.
Drive another 400 miles of mixed traffic, with no long freeway over 20 miles.
After 500 total, swap to the good gear oil and consider the break in done.
Did you put it back in? I dropped my truck off to them yesterday for diff and tcase.
- Thread starter
- #34
not yet.
slammed with work/life and out of town this weekend, so likely next week i will take a day next week to put it back together.
slammed with work/life and out of town this weekend, so likely next week i will take a day next week to put it back together.
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Picked up the truck from them and the new installed flange looks crooked, somewhat bent. Do you guys think this will give me problems later on?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That's just the dust cover. The real issue is if the flange itself is true, and my guess is, it's fine. It takes a lot of force to bend one, like dropping the full weight of the differential on one.
Now i can look pass that. The flange looks fine. Thanks
- Thread starter
- #38
Well..., I finally got this done. While I had it up on blocks I also replaced the MC and bleed all four corners. When I was ready to reassemble I discovered the tie-rod was bent so I ordered one from Slee which added another week with the 4th holiday.
I also discovered the rear lower control arms are bent, so I will get those on order and install before the next trip (not sure when that happened).
But, I am able to drive it and doing the break-in now. Big bummer is that I have a slight oil leak
there is no way I'm pulling it apart again now, so I will just have to live with for a while. I had a real hard time getting the diff back into the axle housing (kept rubbing on the left side). Not sure why, but think this may have scraped off some of the FIPG when I was cursing and fighting with it and is the cause of the leak??? During disassembly, the diff basically fell out, so I don't know why it was so hard to reinstall.
Every time I change the front diff lube the drain plug is hammered from the trail and I have to use my die-grinder to clean it out for a socket to fit. I'm thinking of welding on a short piece of pipe to extend the protection around the drain plug. Any suggestions?
I also discovered the rear lower control arms are bent, so I will get those on order and install before the next trip (not sure when that happened
).But, I am able to drive it and doing the break-in now. Big bummer is that I have a slight oil leak
there is no way I'm pulling it apart again now, so I will just have to live with for a while. I had a real hard time getting the diff back into the axle housing (kept rubbing on the left side). Not sure why, but think this may have scraped off some of the FIPG when I was cursing and fighting with it and is the cause of the leak??? During disassembly, the diff basically fell out, so I don't know why it was so hard to reinstall.Every time I change the front diff lube the drain plug is hammered from the trail and I have to use my die-grinder to clean it out for a socket to fit. I'm thinking of welding on a short piece of pipe to extend the protection around the drain plug. Any suggestions?
Well..., I finally got this done. While I had it up on blocks I also replaced the MC and bleed all four corners. When I was ready to reassemble I discovered the tie-rod was bent so I ordered one from Slee which added another week with the 4th holiday.
I also discovered the rear lower control arms are bent, so I will get those on order and install before the next trip (not sure when that happened
But, I am able to drive it and doing the break-in now. Big bummer is that I have a slight oil leak
Every time I change the front diff lube the drain plug is hammered from the trail and I have to use my die-grinder to clean it out for a socket to fit. I'm thinking of welding on a short piece of pipe to extend the protection around the drain plug. Any suggestions?
View attachment 1493828
Looks like Hex head drain plugs are in your near future
90341-18016 (non-magnetic, hex)
90341-18021 (magnetic, hex)
- Thread starter
- #40
good idea. think i will also weld another ring around the drain plug. scraping either type prevents the wrench/scoket from fitting.