Shock removal - seized

[Cruiserhead05]

Despite removing many shocks over the years, this one has me stumped.

In the process of pulling my rear ICON’s (for rebuild) and the lower (axle mount) on one side does not want to budge. No amount of PB blaster, torch heat or pry bar and kicking will move it.

Any tips/tricks?

Here is a pic of there it’s stuck

 

[fjc-man]

How about putting the bolt back in to take the thrust of a two jaw puller?

 

[CharlieS]

Take off the wheel - remove all that weight. Put a bolt in the hole, and use a puller.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Good call on the puller. I'll try and snag one today and see if that'll do the trick, in combination with 24 hours of soaking in PB blaster.

 

[CharlieS]

Also, I have used PB Blaster for years, but have been using Kroil lately and it seems to work a bit better.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Following on this to close the loop.

I soaked the eyelet in ample PB blaster and other solvents for 2 weeks. Despite this, I successfully bent a 4-ton, two jaw puller. Talked with Tim at 303 shocks who was unfazed by this and said it was common. Advice was to cut into the eyelet, but obviously not to cut into the stud on the axle. Doing this would clearly ruin the eyelet allow it to easily prior off. New shafts would be installed during the rebuild.

Just passing it along if others run into a similar situation.

 

[CharlieS]

Sorry to hear that, what a hassle.

Not sure if it would help but I use some multi purpose grease on that lower shock pivot during assembly with the hope that the next removal is easier. So far, it has worked, but you may have different environmental conditions than I do.

 

[turbo8]

I had this problem on my 4runner, which has similar shock mounts. I was able to remove the spiral snap rings from the back side and pull the eyelet off the bearing. I think I then cut the bearing off with an angle grinder.

 

[99toylc]

I would dip the entire bottom part of the strut in a bowl (or use aluminum tray or make a container out of aluminum foil) of vinegar (best would be 10%) and let it be for 24 hrs. - believe me or not but it was the only way to pull out the hitch ball mount out of the receiver in my rusty 100 series that resisted a 20 ton press.

 

[CharlieS]

Another Mud member suggested 50% acetone/50% ATF as a better penetrant than even Kroil. Might be worth one last try before you start cutting?

 

[Cruiserhead05]

you bet. I'll give it a shot

 

[RET2]

Tongue in cheek of course there is always the Bill-Hilly way, just leave the securing bolt out and go for a short spin Guaranteed to loosen or even take it off the stud

 

[ohsix]

I'm in the same situation as the original poster with a 5-year-old, rear, King shock. Left rear came off easy. Right rear is seized on the lower shaft. A 2-jaw puller, penetrating oil, and 1/2" air impact can't break it free. I'm going to try an air hammer with a pickle fork. If that doesn't work, I'm going to start cutting

 

[Sandroad]

I'm in the same situation as the original poster with a 5-year-old, rear, King shock. Left rear came off easy. Right rear is seized on the lower shaft. A 2-jaw puller, penetrating oil, and 1/2" air impact can't break it free. I'm going to try an air hammer with a pickle fork. If that doesn't work, I'm going to start cutting

Given what you’ve done so far I suspect you know this, but penetrating oil can take a while. Several hours or even a couple days can make a difference. Oil then tap, oil then tap again a few hours later, then repeat lots of times.