Builds Shipwreck (27 Viewers)

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well, I moved the flare up a bit, did some creative work with painter's tape, and think I have a plan... no picture of that work, but a plan...

in other news... braces n brackets




started welding but didn't finish because I didn't want to put too much heat in it.... I also ran out of shielding gas, so that slowed things down a bit too


and with coil spring plates sitting in place




I also think I'm going to make this beast run sooner rather than later, so I got a carb


that's all for tonight... thanks for reading
 
Not sure if you said this, but mig or tig welding? I think for something like this tig would be better because of the heat and control.
 
I don't remember anything about a diesel, but my memory is not good either. It looks like you are making good progress there. I wish I had as good of tools as you do, and some of your welding skills. That sure would make things easier.

Since it is pouring down rain outside, and little prospect of it abating much for the next week I could use that time to work on the 40 motor, but I think my wife would prefer I spend time on completing stuff in the house first. Maybe I can sneak in a little bit of time on the motor since I don't feel like getting soaked doing stuff outside that needs done. The never ending chore of having to care for the property hangs over my head and keeps me from doing more enjoyable things so much of the time. The "must do's" vs the "wanna do's".

Don
 
there was a very large tree that took out our treehouse... to say I have other projects that need doing would be an understatement - fortunately, we're being blessed with Noah-style rain so I can't possibly work outside building a treehouse, chopping up the tree, or rebuilding the deck (not to mention my case 1835 would sink to China right now on the muddy ground...

In short, my day of home improvements is coming - this summer includes a new deck, patio, and painting the exterior of the house.

I've been very blessed - sometimes I am even blessed to help others with my stuff. If you need anything else, axles, springs - let me know. As for welding, my dad is relatively close to you; and (despite my ribbing) is a pretty good welder and an amazing lay-out/fabrication guy... I'm certain he'd help you too.
 
I'm also going to come to a screeching halt in a bit - the guy who's supposed to narrow my front end hasn't. It was a "2 week job" that I took him the Monday before Thanksgiving - so I can do it myself, I guess, or send it to Currie in California to do what I want.. either way, that will throw a huge damper in progress... then it'll probably be sunny again :(
 
"Noah-style rain", now that is a good description of what we are experiencing currently. The frogs are loving this. They are singing me a real good song right now from the other side of the patio door.

Thanks for the help. I think that a running motor is my biggest blockade at the moment. Hopefully the motor I got from you is good enough that I don't have to use it for parts to get my current headless motor running. I still need a front drive shaft, but I'm not even considering that until I know for sure where the front axle is going to end up. I've already moved it forward some, but it's not for sure in the final location yet.

Several years ago I started setting up for Scout II power steering. That never got finished because of what happened to me and our finances. Maybe this spring I'll feel (financially) up to picking up on that again. Then I will know more about final location for the front axle. I've already installed FJ55 rear springs in both front and rear of the 40. But the head problem reared it's ugly head before I had any chance to drive it and check for anything that needed a bit of reworking.

Anyhow, maybe by this time next week I'll know a little more about the condition of the motor.

Don
 
crossing my fingers for you :)
I'll keep my eyes open for another scout 2 box. I saw one at the NWDRA swap meet a couple weeks ago (why a scout 2 box would be at a drag racer's swap me is a puzzler) - but didn't need it, so didn't buy it. But they are out there and the big swap meets are happening in March and April (4x4 swap meet in Puyallup and the always in April at the Expo Center/PIR)... of course, if you're looking for it, it won't be there... that's just the way it works.
 
I do have a Scout II box. It's just not proven to be good yet. That will happen when I can finally get to the point of installing it. I have the frame mount completed and in place. Been there for several years now. What I don't have is the correct relay rod and pitman arm. If my memory is correct the arm on the box is about 9 inches long and has a big drop. What I need is about 7 inches and closer to flat, maybe an inch drop? (for the life of me I can't remember now if the rod end goes on top or bottom of the arm) I also will need to modify the steering shaft as it currently runs to a manual saginaw box.

I need to get going now. I'm going to help a neighbor build some horse stalls today.

Don
 
I spent the morning at the Corvette swap meet.... so many cars, so little time... didn't buy anything but fattening food
The scout box is easy enough to check to see if it's good - no play between the input and output is just right - anything else, will require adjusting BOTH adjustment points. The box has an adjustment that everyone adjusts (the top of the box). It shouldn't be adjusted more than an 1/8 turn - otherwise it's time to replace the (lost name) the center rod and the cross shaft. There's a second adjustment at where the rag joint would normally go - going 1/2 whatever turns it takes to adjust the pivot rod, then backing off the pivot rod adjustment 1/2 should get you pretty close.
1) aim the pivot rod at the center of the axle at rest
2) you want the tie rod to be parallel with your panhard bar (if you have one)
3) measure the steering arm, close really does count as long as the travel is equal - what you will notice with the longer arm is (of course) easier turning and more movement required to get more degrees of turn... it really doesn't matter that the arms are equal length... call it variable assist steering
4) if you want shorter, get a drop pitman arm from either of the two manufacturers (one is superlift) that makes steering arms for the Scout. They're shorter (and a big gripe in the Scout community - though, I've yet to figure out what they're so irritated about since it'd give them quicker steering) at roughly 6"

barring that, redrill the hole and get a taper reamer from Speedway or any circle track supplier. The tie rod end is standard GM taper... be gentle with the taper reamer to preserve as much material as you can around the hole.
 
not quite done today, but figured I'd update

flare round 2


I put the axle underneath, set the pinion in place, realized it was moved forward, then reset


driveshaft is 16" long with a 4" rise. suspension should be able to go up 4" and down 4" giving me 8" total travel. That does mean at full compression the driveshaft is flat (but as you'll see by next sentence, it's actually 8 degrees angle), and at full compression the driveshaft is at 45 degrees to the ground. That's mitigated a lot because the pinion and the output shaft are both at 8 degrees.... means my maximum angle at full drop is 29 degrees. Yes, that means a CV joint, but it will get a bit better because I'm thinking seriously about converting the gears to 4:1 low range and simultaneously using a Novak rear output which gives me 2 more horizontal inches of driveshaft length (I'm too lazy to actually do the math to see what that will work out on an angle a+b=c where c is 16 and b is 8 and the angle is 8 degrees).... yeah math... anyway, the rest of tonight is going to lower the transfer case so that I have 3* on the carb (it's dead flat now), and slide the transfer case over an inch.... don't know how I did it, but after centering it and welding it in place my tape measure now says it's an inch off... oh well, it's why I keep checking what I've already done.
 
I should point out, in that last picture, you'll see a kink on the wheel opening... something hit this in the back and bumped the corner in (as also evidenced by the 1/4" of bondo)... I should probably fix that corner before I permanently fasten this into place... meaning, I'm going to drill and bolt for now.

Also, the blue tape... I'm going to put a 2" 1/4" wall square tube frenched into the body - then run some 1 5/8 DOM tube as rock slider on the outside...
 
cross member number... hmmm... 3? 4?


time to clean the rivets off


rivets off, notice this cross member is different than number 3 or 4 which makes it number 5, I think.... and I should refine the front cross member (move it towards the transfer case)... so there will be another revision... and yes, it's welded in place - it's a whole lot easier to keep the diverging side rails parallel when you tack them on while you're fitting it.


I need to split that center pivot, and move the mounts closer to the rails

so here's about what it will look like when done.
 
To back up a few pages; a full/ standard/ nascar/ soft Detroit locker functions exactly as your lunchbox lockers do. The Detroit tru-trac is the differential that is "supposed" to turn one revolution for every three of the opposing wheel, but as you mentioned I have seen plenty go ten plus revolutions. The benefit of a full Detroit is the stronger "full case" assembly and lack of small pins and springs that apply locking pressure to the collars. The full Detroit uses larger springs, more robust gears and lacks a full center pin (leaving room for larger, stronger gears).

Detroit:

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/images/F10066690.jpg


Spartan:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/atta...0153d1369190500-spartan-locker-fail-image.jpg

Tru-trac:

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/pct_298553.jpg

Your front link (I think they were front) numbers look good. The roll axis angle is HUGE in terms of street ability. Zero or slightly negative is ideal, looks as if you nailed it. Can you post the accompanying diagram that shows how? Tj flares are great. I think a centered wheel well looks best, although moving it as aft as you can will help with your driveline as well as help from smashing your rear corners into stuff. The corners on my LJ are now beat to snot due to the overhang. My fj40 tub was 8" wider yet fit better through the same spots because the rear tire shielded it.
 
it's the rear numbers, I'm still working on the front. With that said, that's changed... With the front, I asked Moto Dave for his numbers - and that's the baseline (and possibly exactly) what I'm going to do - but, ask i mentioned before, I don't have my front axle back yet, so everything is in limbo until that shows up.
 
I promised new, revised numbers... here they are.
in theory the attachment worked and gave at least 3 pages.... if not, let me know.
the cover page



what's funny, at least to me, is I struggled with doing the calculations on paper, but once I got under the vehicle and fabricated what I thought was right - the numbers confirmed it... with that said, crunching numbers helped because originally the upper link separation was 5", with a converging point being at 87", now it's 30" and all it took was reducing the separation to 4"...
since there are some who are very sensitive here, I'll add this - this isn't "I'm so great" rather, it's pointing out that some people can fabricate something but utterly fail when they have to start on paper. That's me, I can build pretty much anything, but solidworks and I are not friends, we're not even speaking right now... with that said, once I did get what I thought looked right on the vehicle, going back to the numbers really helped dial in the right point...
 

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Looks good, I would consider an adjustable upper bracket just in case you want to adjust your squat. The lower links set the stage and the upper placement fine tunes it. Artec makes a nice one, looks as if you are partial to ruff stuff, but I find Artec to be a little more refined and the keyed pieces help with assembly and mock up.

I'm like you as in, I have no CAD skills. Paper, pen and mock up kind of guy. The best analogy I found for squat/ anti squat was a refrigerator with a line representing COG directly at the midline (for simplicity). If your link convergence is above that line, it will push the fridge over forward and raise the rear as it goes down (anti-squat). If the convergence is below the COG, the opposite will occur. I don't buy into chasing certain numbers as most COG guesses are off,but I do believe in building in adjustment options in case I want to fine tune things.

On the front axle, are you still looking to swap tubes, or just narrow? Narrow is well within your abilities, tube swapping may exceed your equipment without buying new tubes, but that almost has to be cheaper than shipping to CA and back?
 
Ruff stuff donated about $1,000 to my local SAR, so yes, if there's a choice I'll choose them.

There isn't much room to adjust, with that said, I don't mind cutting and rewelding (which will inform why I'm painting the frame instead of powder coating ;))

maybe I should rob the bits off that Buick in my avatar (I mean, beside the steering column I've already robbed from it)...


for this tire




I'm moving a HP44 pinion from the driver's side to the passenger side. Optimally, I don't want to do it - but I'm not going to let knuckle angles stop me from this build.... with that said, I stopped by today and he actually moved in the correct direction - so it's probably moot. I'll just have to learn how to machine the tube out of the knuckles (I joke, sort of). I guess what was stopping him was his machinist (why he doesn't use his lathe ... I dunno...) but a couple weeks ago I met a guy who is selling a mill - I didn't buy the mill but gained a friend who is a machinist and wants to trade sheet metal fab and welding for machine work.... so, crossing my fingers, it may all work out.
 
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