Builds Shipwreck (21 Viewers)

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Nice quick edits :D

Just giving you a hard time. Still watching intently.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
... though today I was considering buying reverse cut gears and flipping the Dana 60 to get a high-pinion.... at this point, it'd basically cost me gears and might save me money on a less-elaborate driveshaft.
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Do you really think that would work, or are you trolling these guys?
 
Wilson said:
Do you really think that would work, or are you trolling these guys?
Click to expand...
actually I didn't know it wouldn't work prior to that post (without a bunch of extra work - like an oil pump in the rear differential to lube the pinion bearings) but it took a whole lot of reading other posts to actually get those words... so no, I didn't know... so tell me, since I'm not the troll... is it jealousy or you're just a jerk?
 
but back to today's concern... an emergency brake.... I'm having a hard time justifying spending nearly $500 on a 32 spline output from JB Conversions to bolt on a $350 ebrake. The biggest concern is I can spend $1400 to make this case as good as an Atlas (front 32 spline, 4:1 gears, rear 32 spline).... or simply save my money and wait for an Atlas to show up... bluntly, I think the idea of spending $350 for two brake pads, two bolts, two springs and an arm ludicrous - so some fab might be happening.
 
Wilson. I do not see your build thread on a highly custom vehicle. He knows what he's doing and sometimes we have ideas that we mention that turn out to not work. But I agree that is a bit ridiculous to spend that much money for an e-brake. Isn't this an automatic transmission or is it manual? If auto why so you need an e brake if I may ask
 
not automatic, I started with the idea of using a 700r4, but eventually my heart overrode my brain and I went with a 3rd pedal. Aisin-warner 5 speed from a Chevy colorado is in it.... I may add a hill-holder brake as well since one of my more memorable times off-road was near the radio towers north of Reno when I got a great 4 wheel slide going backwards down a hill climb (rear brakes locked first then front brakes)
 
back to opinions... first... look at both of these ICON builds
icon1.jpg


in one, the rear wheel is forward, the other, the wheel is back. I propose doing both - opening up the rear fender and extending the rear section 3 1/2" to both clear the new tires and still have a traditional-looking FJ40. Front axle is moving forward 2" or so (I want the tightest turning radius, so to clear the 38s, the front needs to move forward a bit).
but the question. Broncos pull off the same elevation of rear wheel well and the front wheel well - so do I simply move the rear back 3 1/2" and weld in a filler or do I do a bit more work and raise the wheel well thus keeping the proportion?
obviously this requires sheet metal work, and I think I can fake knowing what I'm doing, but that proportion is just being a bugger to visualize.
 
Mudder said:
Wilson. I do not see your build thread on a highly custom vehicle. He knows what he's doing and sometimes we have ideas that we mention that turn out to not work. But I agree that is a bit ridiculous to spend that much money for an e-brake. Isn't this an automatic transmission or is it manual? If auto why so you need an e brake if I may ask
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Then you are not looking hard enough. I do not think I have any build threads on mud, but I do have several on pirate but even stopped posting new ones over there three or four years ago. In that time I've built or extensively modified three or four more vehicles.

Back to my comment; flipping a low pinion Dana 60 over and "converting" it to high pinion will not work period, not with a lube pump, not with modifying the casting for oil passages, not with installing a high pinion gearset. They are two completely different animals. The closest to this dream (and wouldn't it be nice) is the sixty-nine third member from Jrat Offroad (inserting a link is fighting me on my iPad) which has a pinion support that can be flipped to use either high pinion or low pinion gears. That is a 100% custom option, starting with a $1500 bare third member, requiring a $675 housing that only ruff stuff builds. If hi pinion was the only desire, it would be cheaper to start with a bare front housing from a super duty. I ran a hi pinion 60 rear in the back of my 103" wb fj40 and it was great.

I'm here to help, whether it's SBG or other's that may read this build and otherwise not know that a 14 bolt does not have 35 spline shafts, or that you cannot turn a low pinion Dana 60 over, slap high pinion gears in it and save hundreds of dollars over buying a building a high pinion housing. I'm not arguing opinion here or cost benefit. The Internet is full of misinformation and if I see something that I KNOW is wrong, it is my nature to correct it. Jerk, a**hole, arrogant; I've been called them all and worse, but I am honest and not concerned with being called names.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
but back to today's concern... an emergency brake.... I'm having a hard time justifying spending nearly $500 on a 32 spline output from JB Conversions to bolt on a $350 ebrake. The biggest concern is I can spend $1400 to make this case as good as an Atlas (front 32 spline, 4:1 gears, rear 32 spline).... or simply save my money and wait for an Atlas to show up... bluntly, I think the idea of spending $350 for two brake pads, two bolts, two springs and an arm ludicrous - so some fab might be happening.
Click to expand...


Have you looked into late model 14 bolts, sterlings, and Dana axles? They have a drum parking brake built into the rear rotors. My FZJ80 was set up the same way. A driveline e brake may not always keep you stopped with a ratcheting type locker. They are designed to let one wheel travel faster than another. I have jacked up one rear tire on a rig with a Detroit and it started rolling.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
back to opinions... first... look at both of these ICON builds
icon1.jpg


in one, the rear wheel is forward, the other, the wheel is back. I propose doing both - opening up the rear fender and extending the rear section 3 1/2" to both clear the new tires and still have a traditional-looking FJ40. Front axle is moving forward 2" or so (I want the tightest turning radius, so to clear the 38s, the front needs to move forward a bit).
but the question. Broncos pull off the same elevation of rear wheel well and the front wheel well - so do I simply move the rear back 3 1/2" and weld in a filler or do I do a bit more work and raise the wheel well thus keeping the proportion?
obviously this requires sheet metal work, and I think I can fake knowing what I'm doing, but that proportion is just being a bugger to visualize.
Click to expand...

The people that are running late model j**p flares are raising the wheel openings pretty high. I think it looks good...and should keep everything functional with less lift.

This one is on mud. Not 38's, but the wheelwell shape is nice.

metal-tech-driveway-jpg.791866


38's?

14Jun03-10.jpg


This pic says a lot about those flares on a 40
tj-flares-hung-jpg.157982
 
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Wilson said:
Have you looked into late model 14 bolts, sterlings, and Dana axles? They have a drum parking brake built into the rear rotors. My FZJ80 was set up the same way. A driveline e brake may not always keep you stopped with a ratcheting type locker. They are designed to let one wheel travel faster than another. I have jacked up one rear tire on a rig with a Detroit and it started rolling.
Click to expand...

lunchbox lockers are nothing like Detroit lockers, they don't operate on the same principle - detroit lockers allow at least 3 wheel revolutions before they'll lock up - and all the way up to 10 revolutions. lunchbox lockers also work in reverse, and while I've never jacked up a vehicle and had it roll away; I'll have to try it with this once the vehicle is done.
I've looked at them and they all have the same problem - the cable, when you run cables down long-travel suspensions the cable may or may not have enough adjustment to allow travel to happen or if it's loose enough, won't actually hold the vehicle when you most need it - it's why I am considering a hill holder AND a t-case ebrake.
 
Wilson said:
Jerk, a**hole, arrogant; I've been called them all and worse, but I am honest and not concerned with being called names.
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we already know you're a jerk - but why do you feel you need to call me names?

I always needed a secretary, be sure to shave your legs and wear the appropriate skirt. We'll talk about other services I need when we talk about your performance review and your raise :flipoff2:
 
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