I heard from a friend that Tonga Ridge was tough going with really deep snow. His FJ80 had to get un-mired numerous times. Sounds like a blast. Gotta remember to bring my snow shovels.
Builds Shipwreck (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
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- #902
I drive a Hummer - I'm probably the last person who could answer this question.... just sayin' all I know is it was the only spot available to park 
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- #903
I can't imagine that Tonga would have been any different - it literally is across the highway from where we were.... what was interesting, though, was there were 30 mph winds on the highway (eastish-westish), and dead calm where we were (north-south)....
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- #904
nothing picture-worthy outside of this...
biggest issue with blind nuts is you can't hurry the process
biggest issue with blind nuts is you can't hurry the process
I bought a blind nut installer when I first started on my 40 and ended up never using it. I hate mixing fastener types, makes for extra work. I wish metric nut inserts and the puller dies had been available when I bought it. I may have actually used it. I suppose I could have bought an expensive tool online. Too cheap and lazy.
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- #906
it's always such a decision-making process. I'd rather not have bought a $100 tool; however, I have the smaller tool and it's about as worthless as it can be. In short, I should have simply gone with the larger, more expensive tool. As for metric, I'd rather it all SAE, but the 350 has lots of metric bolts... so it's a combination of both.
The setting tool I got came with both metric and SAE tools.
The setting tool I got came with both metric and SAE tools.
Mine is from HF. You get what you pay for.
- Thread starter
- #908
more little things...
finish up the rear door
not sure I like the steering wheel - it was cheap, it looks cheap... this may change or I may modify it but not now
removed what holds the dash on.... sand blasting made removal easy. I used my spot-weld cutter and knew I was deep enough when a bit of sand came out of the hole...
and started on the tank... not sure exactly what I'm going to do here.... ah well, I'm sure it'll all work out perfect
finish up the rear door
not sure I like the steering wheel - it was cheap, it looks cheap... this may change or I may modify it but not now
removed what holds the dash on.... sand blasting made removal easy. I used my spot-weld cutter and knew I was deep enough when a bit of sand came out of the hole...
and started on the tank... not sure exactly what I'm going to do here.... ah well, I'm sure it'll all work out perfect
I see you are still making progress on your build, its another winter now and you are still going strong.
The checker-plate on your rear quarter panels is off putting and detracts from the quality build you are doing, it reminds me of a rust cover-up, I think the finish of smooth metal would look a lot nicer. But in one photo its there and in the next its gone, so I am a little confused?
Are you working on two different tubs?
The checker-plate on your rear quarter panels is off putting and detracts from the quality build you are doing, it reminds me of a rust cover-up, I think the finish of smooth metal would look a lot nicer. But in one photo its there and in the next its gone, so I am a little confused?
Are you working on two different tubs?
- Thread starter
- #910
one tub - just taking it back apart to finish up the bodywork and paint it.
if I was building a show-car, then I'd probably not do the plate. with all that said, the driver's corner, especially, is in really rough shape. At some point in its past it got hit there and moved in about 1/4 of an inch. If it were to be exposed it would need complete replacement along with the inner fender.... that's not going to happen. Again, it's a 4x4 that will be beat like a rented mule.
in the end that corner guard will be black - and if someone is concerned about rust... it wouldn't be the first time that the thread I create about my build both got me a higher price and calmed the potential buyer.
if I was building a show-car, then I'd probably not do the plate. with all that said, the driver's corner, especially, is in really rough shape. At some point in its past it got hit there and moved in about 1/4 of an inch. If it were to be exposed it would need complete replacement along with the inner fender.... that's not going to happen. Again, it's a 4x4 that will be beat like a rented mule.
in the end that corner guard will be black - and if someone is concerned about rust... it wouldn't be the first time that the thread I create about my build both got me a higher price and calmed the potential buyer.
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- Thread starter
- #911
first was work on the tire carrier
and now they line up
then onto the dash
holes filled
tomorrow I plan on finishing the bed liner and maybe even start the final body work so I can paint it.... crossing fingers
and now they line up
then onto the dash
holes filled
tomorrow I plan on finishing the bed liner and maybe even start the final body work so I can paint it.... crossing fingers
- Thread starter
- #912
not as far as I wanted to get, but at least the floor is painted
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- #913
Annoying, everyone else has two colors of bedliner - I buy from the one company that has 3 shade of tan... so I had to repaint the trans cover... and noticed an issue that I'm going to have to watch (and may not be able to do anything about).... it seems to seal, then gasses bubble under the paint..... ugh, I'm not going to have the body sand blasted again so I'm going to go forward, but this is not good news
anyway, tomorrow there will be more work done
anyway, tomorrow there will be more work done
I used the smooth Durabak. I found it adhered well when I had thoroughly scuffed the area with 80 grit paper. I could see the scuff marks after the first coat, but not after the second coat. Areas I didn't scuff as well tended to peel easily.
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- #915
sandblasted, then epoxy primer which, according to their instructions is the best way... oh well, next time I haul it to the rhino lining place..
Try Monstaliner. I'm using it on the outside of my truck and have been getting good results even with wheeling it and scrapping against trees and ditches. I know it may be awhile before you do but its some good stuff.
- Thread starter
- #917
by next time, I mean on my next 4x4 build... I'm not going backwards on this one.
I've been debating whether I want to do a bedliner inside the truck or not...obviously I'm not going for stock, and bedliner would probably hold up well, I just also know if I do bedliner and then change my mind at some point in the future, I will be in for a world of hurt removing it.
Hitting the underside of the tub and fenders seems like a no brainer - especially now that I've extended the grounds into the inside of the engine bay.
Hitting the underside of the tub and fenders seems like a no brainer - especially now that I've extended the grounds into the inside of the engine bay.
- Thread starter
- #919
I plan on carpet on the inside, this is to protect and insulate... overall, I like the product and it's about 1/2 the cost of bedlining....
onward
a bit of grinding
a bit of mudding
a bit of primer
onward
a bit of grinding
a bit of mudding
a bit of primer
- Thread starter
- #920
forward ho
time to get the last of the stuff to the sand blaster (except for the doors - that's another problem for another day)
grill
thankfully, the lights I bought fit like they were made for it
rear hatch innards
stripped
stack of parts... and I may pull the doors apart tomorrow night to make it a complete load
hateful stack
and its brother
a bit of guide chalk
2 hours later it looks like I've done nothing
time to get the last of the stuff to the sand blaster (except for the doors - that's another problem for another day)
grill
thankfully, the lights I bought fit like they were made for it
rear hatch innards
stripped
stack of parts... and I may pull the doors apart tomorrow night to make it a complete load
hateful stack
and its brother
a bit of guide chalk
2 hours later it looks like I've done nothing
