The editor is living in Spain right now. Don't think he can make it. There is always my right seat.
Builds Shipwreck (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #1,942
oops.... media director, he has a rhd import troopy
- Thread starter
- #1,943
doors installed
figured it'd be easier to put the hinges on first (and reduce the risk of chipping paint on the door driving pins in)
and clean paint off
and block up the door (turns out this was the hard way)
door on
I used this as a seal.... seems to work fine
other door in place
I'm glad I put all this together - it turns out the piece I was going to make for the windshield would have been substantially short
looks kind of cool to me
figured it'd be easier to put the hinges on first (and reduce the risk of chipping paint on the door driving pins in)
and clean paint off
and block up the door (turns out this was the hard way)
door on
I used this as a seal.... seems to work fine
other door in place
I'm glad I put all this together - it turns out the piece I was going to make for the windshield would have been substantially short
looks kind of cool to me
Looks like it fits well.
I had previously suggested they feature your 40 in the magazine.
BTW, the Naches group is meeting at the Enumclaw Safeway gas station (Hwy 410) and departing at 10 am for Greenwater.
- Thread starter
- #1,947
it's really high quality stuff.
Did you have to stretch it much to make it fit? Or did
How did you attached it to the frame? Also did it require much stretching to get it to correctly?
- Thread starter
- #1,950
Not an easy question to answer because they're different tops for different purposes. the Best top seems more like a "well, if I have to have a top" it's just what the doctor orders. I've seen and heard of lots of people who bought a best top "just in case", who have yet to use it. For those people, spending the extra is kind of silly, especially since the Best Top comes apart far easier then the stock top.
This top - I think it will be warmer in the winter, and more weather-proof. It's also not really something you're going to take off for a day or two. I also think it's more rigid so it should be quieter at speed.
Cost - it's almost a wash.... Had I kept my other doors, bought the canvas version of this top, with my $125 frame. $900 for the canvas top, $125 for the framework = $1125 vs. $853+50 shipping = $953 add $50 for the windshield channel (best top) and you're within $100 of the trollhole. Of course, there's also the other bit - Best top comes in any color you want as long as you want black. Trollhole comes in at least 6 colors....
Cost for me - I replaced my doors (though I sold the parts from the other doors for more then I paid for these doors), bought the PVC Canvas top (more weather proof and tougher), and bought the hardware (which, I honestly wouldn't recommend - rather use their link and get stainless) so I'm in it about $1550.... and I don't have a black top - which means in the summer I don't have to remove it to be comfortable (though I may buy a duster top for the summer)
- Thread starter
- #1,951
I might as well make this its own post.
History, I've been losing HEI modules - the new one inside is number 4. The first went, then a few weeks later the second, then the third went in 1 drives.... obviously something was amiss, but what? google really is my friend. I've been having trouble with a squealing pulley. I spray lube on it, it stops squealing. Problem is I don't think it was the pulley that was squealing because the last time, I lubed the snot out of the pulley and everything it rode on.... so what could it be? I'm not a mystery writer - so if you guess "the alternator" you'd be right... problem was this is the 2nd alternator, the first died a horrible death from being really old and stopping charging the battery. The bearings were making crunching noises as well, so no biggie. I bought an AC Delco alternator and installed it - but wait, a trusted friend (mechanic) said I was using too long of belt. Say "ut oh".
So back to Google, on one of the threads there was a mechanic talking about how he kept blowing HEI modules because the rectifier (see picture below) was faulty. For those who don't know, alternators create ac power. Rectifiers "correctify" the voltage to dc. The problem with an ac current in a dc system is the system overheats. In this case, my HEI module was the weak link. But how, you may ask, does a rectifier fail when there's too tight of a belt. Truth be told, pretty simply. The bearing on the front wears out and causes the rotor to hit the stator. In my case, the belt was okay when cool, but once the motor got up to operating temps, the engine expanded but the belt didn't. That creates current out-of-phase (picture a short circuit)... what you'd notice if this was happening to your car is it would start misfiring then eventually stop altogether.
So today I started building another alternator.... but well,
picture
On the end of the rotor is a copper cap (called, strangely "a cap"). That cap allows both brushes to contact completing the circuit for the charging system. Problem is that cap is too worn... so I punted and bought another alternator from a local builder.
this space to be filled tomorrow.
History, I've been losing HEI modules - the new one inside is number 4. The first went, then a few weeks later the second, then the third went in 1 drives.... obviously something was amiss, but what? google really is my friend. I've been having trouble with a squealing pulley. I spray lube on it, it stops squealing. Problem is I don't think it was the pulley that was squealing because the last time, I lubed the snot out of the pulley and everything it rode on.... so what could it be? I'm not a mystery writer - so if you guess "the alternator" you'd be right... problem was this is the 2nd alternator, the first died a horrible death from being really old and stopping charging the battery. The bearings were making crunching noises as well, so no biggie. I bought an AC Delco alternator and installed it - but wait, a trusted friend (mechanic) said I was using too long of belt. Say "ut oh".
So back to Google, on one of the threads there was a mechanic talking about how he kept blowing HEI modules because the rectifier (see picture below) was faulty. For those who don't know, alternators create ac power. Rectifiers "correctify" the voltage to dc. The problem with an ac current in a dc system is the system overheats. In this case, my HEI module was the weak link. But how, you may ask, does a rectifier fail when there's too tight of a belt. Truth be told, pretty simply. The bearing on the front wears out and causes the rotor to hit the stator. In my case, the belt was okay when cool, but once the motor got up to operating temps, the engine expanded but the belt didn't. That creates current out-of-phase (picture a short circuit)... what you'd notice if this was happening to your car is it would start misfiring then eventually stop altogether.
So today I started building another alternator.... but well,
picture
On the end of the rotor is a copper cap (called, strangely "a cap"). That cap allows both brushes to contact completing the circuit for the charging system. Problem is that cap is too worn... so I punted and bought another alternator from a local builder.
this space to be filled tomorrow.
I can understand a failing alternator being part of the coil issue, but I can't picture the hot/cold aspects of the belt coming into play. I can see how too long of a belt led to low tension and slipping (it even hurt my ears while driving in a different vehicle). Low tension issues don't seem a likely cause to the bearing failure on your alternator. To me it would seem more likely that the crappy rebuilders produced another bum alternator. I am super glad to hear you have a root cause on all those issues though. Or causes as is the case. I know how that was driving you nuts.
- Thread starter
- #1,953
high tension - squealing pulley was either a false squeal or there were two squeals.... it wasn't slipping. What makes me mad is if I'd left it alone, it'd have been fine. But, I presumed and it cost - I presumed the belt wasn't too tight. To be honest, I've heard the "don't tighten belts too much" mantra before and pretty much ignored it...
in answer to your text, I don't knw yet.... I'll know by noon.
in answer to your text, I don't knw yet.... I'll know by noon.
- Thread starter
- #1,955
they do, but this was at the limit of its travel - thus when it got warm, it had no where to go.
Ah, so the belt was too short, not too long. I misunderstood as usual 
- Thread starter
- #1,957
right, and the water pump pulley is bent too.... sigh
Really? Wow. Mine are straight, just not in the same plane. Comes from scrounging brackets to fit various components from different years and engines.
- Thread starter
- #1,959
it's the source of one of the squeaks
My squeaks are more often the neighborhood cats.