Shim set for transfer output shaft (1 Viewer)

[TexFJ]

I have a questionable perceivable click when pulling back and forward on my transfer output flange, which makes me question the preload on the bearing. I have the original shim but the bearing changed a couple of years ago. Sooo, I wanted to reset the preload. To do so I would love to find a shim kit for this purpose instead of guessing on the shims I need and buying them one at a time.

Does anyone sell a shim kit? Or am I going to have to pick several from the 13 widths available from Toyota?

 

[OSS]

I’ve never seen a kit and each shim is relatively expensive. Buying 12 shims you don’t need would be pricey. Options:
1. Just replace the bearing and race and use your old shim.
2. Measure your old shim then buy the next two thicker shims.

Without prior experience (with the feel of correct preload) it’s pretty much impossible to guess if the bearing preload is correct. After you’ve set it with a micro-torque wrench, then you’ll get a feel for what is “right” but having no reference, the tendency is to set it too loose if just guessing.

Get a dial micro torque wrench to set the preload on the output shaft bearing. I have a nice one I used once. For sale.
Mine not shown.

 

[TexFJ]

OK, makes sense. I guess you can't stack the shims in this application like you do in other places in the truck. The two thicker shims strategy is a good one. Not sure how people translate the 6-10 in-lb. setting to using a fish finder on the bolt. I guess it's possible. There's some $25 dollar dial torque wrenches out there and also some $200 ones like the one in the pic Doubt we need to be that accurate here

 

[Spike Strip]

SOR sells a shim kit. I looked briefly on their site and couldn't find it, but I bought one many years ago. You may have to call. They worked ok.

Also, FJparts.com sells shims individually.

Found it on SOR: part # 070-33A

I used an inch-lb torque wrench to get it right. You might be able to rent/borrow one.

 

[cruisermatt]

@TexFJ going to respond here as it is more applicable then the other thread - clunk when pulling/pushing in/out on the output flange has nothing to do with the bearing preload or the shim under the rear bearing race, the 6-bolt retainer holds that in and maintains the output shaft preload. There is a ~0.050" shim that goes on the output shaft, along with the spacer and speedo drive.
Are you sure you have the correct flange nut or nut/washer holding the output flange on?

 

[TexFJ]

The flange nut is from the rebuild kit from Georg. No washer needed if it has a flange, I believe. Fits snug and torqued to spec.

I had the washer in there when I took it apart

Couldn't find proof that I put it in there so I should triple check. lack of washer could be a source of a whine with the speedometer gear flopping around. This could be easy enough.

The clicking still could be coming from a bad preload, since you would be pulling the rear shaft with the pressed on bearing and it would be clicking when hitting the race. the only thing that bothers me is that I didn't have the whine with the A440F, so this is a long shot since I never took the retainer off.

 

[cruisermatt]

The clicking still could be coming from a bad preload, since you would be pulling the rear shaft with the pressed on bearing and it would be clicking when hitting the race.

Right, but you said you just rebuilt the transfer case recently.
So either you wiped a bearing immediately or you did something incorrectly when you first assembled it, either didn’t fully press a output shaft bearing on, or didnt have the inner output shaft bearing race retainer fully seated, etc.
that can definitely cause output shaft play and the speedo issue you described.

Still, the output flange doesn’t effect the preload.

 

[TexFJ]

Confirmed that I had the speedometer gear washer.

Here is the reason why I started with the preload.... errrr, what preload?

 

[TexFJ]

Here's the issue:

 

[sodafeld1]

ooh that sounds nasty, have you found what it is? Sounds like something small and fast. Does it feel hot anywhere after a drive? Change trans oil to see if it is metal swarf or plastic bits being created? If your preload is correct and retainer housing sits well, kind of points to your speedo gear. Just shooting ideas..

 

[TexFJ]

Awaiting new shims to set the preload. If that doesn't work then I'll split the TC and evaluate, also I can try and take the speedometer gear, spacer and washer out as a test.

Yes, I need to change the Tranny oil to see if there's anything there...

 

[cruisermatt]

Awaiting new shims to set the preload. If that doesn't work then I'll split the TC and evaluate, also I can try and take the speedometer gear, spacer and washer out as a test.

Yes, I need to change the Tranny oil to see if there's anything there...

Right, but you said you just rebuilt the transfer case recently.
So either you wiped a bearing immediately or you did something incorrectly when you first assembled it, either didn’t fully press a output shaft bearing on, or didnt have the inner output shaft bearing race retainer fully seated, etc.
that can definitely cause output shaft play and the speedo issue you described.

Still, the output flange doesn’t effect the preload.

you still never responded to this? ^ Was the preload ok when you rebuilt it? How many miles since the rebuild?

You should almost never have to change the shims from the original shim setup. You shouldn't have to "reset" the preload.

That noise is way worse then a loose output preload issue anyways.

 

[TexFJ]

first rebuild had the preload pretty tight. same shim used, as it was never taken out. no noise at all.

I would say about 2K miles since last rebuild.

 

[sodafeld1]

first rebuild had the preload pretty tight. same shim used, as it was never taken out. no noise at all.

I would say about 2K miles since last rebuild.

Do you mean your transfer has been re-built twice since owning it?
Or 2kmiles since the one and only tcase rebuild?
Did you diy? Full gearbox and tcase rebuild? or Just t-case? On or off vehicle?

 

[TexFJ]

I rebuilt the transfer case once, meaning I had purchased the rebuild kit with all bearings from Georg as well as the long spline input gear. It solved all the noise/humming issues I had coming from the input gear.

After I swapped the tranny to an H55F, I split the case once again but only using new gaskets and o-rings. All bearings stayed the same. difference was the H55. I was advised to keep the tranny output shaft bearing shim off the H55 side of the front case as only the A440F used it. (first difference).

Then after putting it back I did notice that the preload was really loose on the TC output flange. (second difference)

Back cover taken off while the TC is still on the A440F.

back on H55

 

[TexFJ]

I did notice that the output shaft bearing race was pretty loose and seemed like it could spin. is this normal?

 

[TexFJ]

Do you mean your transfer has been re-built twice since owning it?
Or 2kmiles since the one and only tcase rebuild?
Did you diy? Full gearbox and tcase rebuild? or Just t-case? On or off vehicle?

2K miles since the original rebuild. I professionally DIY'd it for the A440F. Noise started when I put the brand new H55F on with the same TC.

 

[sodafeld1]

Baffling, disconcerting for you I am sure, not a nice noise. I don't think the shims would take the high pitch 'wrrrr' noise away. I have done over 80kmh short runs with the preload too tight and too loose on the output shaft (not on purpose). It doesn't sound like that, more a rattle or vibe if too loose.
Still thinking, and hoping for you, it is something speedo gear related, sounds small and fast.
Keep us updated!

 

[cruisermatt]

The output bearing shim isn't your problem. Forget about that.
No, that race shouldn't spin.

 

[cruisermatt]

@TexFJ any resolution on this?