sheard pinion and clutch slips into gear?

[Marduk49]

ok newbie to cruisers just bought a Frankenstein 1972 fj 40 72 body, 78 2f motor with 4 speed, sm420 transfer case sprung over with 35's.
drove it 1200 miles from southern California to walla walla WA,
awesome trip no probs what so ever... did 60 the whole way...
so now the problems... first off i sheared off the rear pinion, on my first trip out... i was stupid... went up some really steep hill would have made it but high centered and couldn't get over the crux, so i rolled it backwards off, put the clutch in... stupid started rolling really fast toward the edge of a cliff popped the clutch (really stupid) and that was all she wrote by by pinion. could only drive in reverse till we pulled the diff cover and pulled out the what was left of the pinion that was binding up the axles, then was able to drive home in 4 high using the front wheels. anyway my question is do i have options for a stronger ring and pinion for the 4.11 gears than what was stock?

also at stop lights if i sit for a few min the clutch seems to lose pressure and in reengages back into gear... any ideas? i have started just putting it into neutral and that works just fine but id like to figure out what the source of the problem is.

 

[winkle]

Does your 40 have any sort of Anti- wrap set up on it? If not that is the reason you broke the pinion. The older pinions have a coarse spline ( 10 spline I think ) and when you replace yours you will get the new fine spline (30 spline ) pinion that is allot stronger. You will need to change your yoke when you get the new pinion to accommodate the new splines. As for the clutch it sounds like a leak to me. That would cause it to push in the fork and slowly release its self back out. Hope that helps. Throw up some pics of your rig when you get a chance. Welcome to Mud

 

[Pin_Head]

X2 on the anti wrap bar. SOA and large tires increase the wrap forces on the spring.

Your clutch hydraulics are leaking. If the leak is not externally obvious, then the master may be leaking internally.

 

[orangefj45]

i think winkle is on the right track.

since the cruiser is soa, you need a traction device on the rear axle to keep it from wrapping. do a search, there are plenty of them around and they're not difficult to fabriacte. if you plan on wheeling the 40, then you WILL need one on there, bar none.

as for the clutch "bleed", i'd say you might have a slight internal leak in the master cylinder. if you're gonna be sitting at a light for a while, then put the trans in neutral. better for the clutch hydraulics and especially for the throw-out bearing.

try bleeding the clutch, you might have some air trapped in there as well. i usually clean out the reservoir in the master. a lot of "mud" likes to accumulate in there. you can use a few papaer towels to get the old fluid and mud out of there. the "mud" is really wear particles from the master and slave.
then top off the master with clean fluid and leave the lid off. crack the bleeder on the slave open but make sure you have an oil catch pan under it. let the fluid drain until clean fluid comes out, all the while making sure that you keep the master topped off. the last thing you want is for air to get into the master cylinder.
now tighten up the bleeder on the slave and then pressure bleed the system. i usually tap the slave and master with the plastic handle of a screw-driver to knock any air bubbles loose that might be linging onto the rough casting on the inside of the units.
that should get rid of any air in the system and the clutch ought to work great. if you still have the same problem, then it's probably a good idea to replace the master. a lot of people like replacing the master and slave at the same time to avoind and cross-sontamination issues.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

 

[Marduk49]

thanks for the advice for got to mention that i have a Detroit locker in the rear wondering if that makes a difference

 

[Poser]

Welcome.



Pretty common failure for spring-over truck and no anti-wrap bar...fine or coarse spline does not matter...


Read away... <---- this is a link




I would be suspect of your clutch master and slave cylinder, either leaking internally or externally, as to why your clutch starts engaging when you have the pedal on the floor.




Good luck!

thanks for the advice for got to mention that i have a Detroit locker in the rear wondering if that makes a difference

Difference in/to what?