Shattered HG DVD

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Joined
Nov 12, 2013
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12
Messages
161
Location
Denver, CO
So I waited quite a while to receive IdahoDoug's HG DVD. Finally got it in the mail. Opened the envelope to find the DVD shattered in thirty pieces. Not mad about it, I have PM'd Doug about the issue. However, my LC is sitting ready for the head to come off. The season is upon us brothers and I'm starring at my rig in the driveway crying myself to sleep every nite. Ok, it's not that bad.
Have found a few threads that have the FSM posted up, my crank pulley timing mark is on as well as the single and double dots on the cam gears, although I'm a little Leary to pull the cams to get to the head bolts.
Im a decent shade tree mechanic, who is already elbows deep in it, so should I just follow the FSM to the t, get the cams out, pull the head and get the damn thing to the machine shop, or wait for IdahoDoug?????
Any insight/opinions would help!!!!!!
 
I did mine without the DVD. FSM has everything you need and if you're mechanically inclined, it's just a big puzzle. Just be sure to label everything you remove. I had a ton of plastic baggies with various parts. Dissasembly isn't the hard part. If you need the DVD I'm sure it would be there by the time you're ready to reassemble. Good luck!
 
Johnny,
You can read my thread, if you haven't already. I couldn't wait for the DVD either so I jumped in last Wednesday with the FSM only, and this forum. It went fine. Some tips on the DVD are helpful (I just saw it in fast forward this morning), like apply tape and alignment marks around the two hood attach points to make re-installation quicker. And, without the DVD I figured out that I would leave the lower intake manifold in the engine bay, lashed to the port side. This is something Doug does as well. Start spraying those exhaust fasteners, and I had to borrow an impact gun to get the four nuts of the bottom of the exhaust manifolds. It's a slow job, for me at least, but not rocket science. Remove the radiator for sure; mine's being rodded out and resoldered. The biggest disappointment for me was seeing a couple of the harness connectors crack their locking tabs when I depressed them, but it couldn't have been helped.
 
Thanks for the words of wisdom guys, I already had top plenum off the intake once due to believing I had a faulty injector, turns out I did have a injector with higher than spec resistance. So after getting the injectors serviced and replacing the one bad one, getting it back together only to have the same #1 misfire. Figured it was the HG. Had Slee take a look at it for me and it turns out to have a burnt exhaust valve on #1. Slee thought it was just a bad head job from whoever owned it before me. I don't have the money to let them finish the job, so I towed it home and started to disassemble. She's ready to pull, valve grind kit, hose kit in hand, thnx CDAN. Just trying to muster the courage to yank it.
I also noticed the oil pump cover oozing goo all over and thought what a good to to replace. How hard is it gonna be to get the crank pulley off now that the motor is almost minus a head??? How do u go about boiling out a radiator with plastic tanks???
 
Prob gonna get the alternator rebuilt while its out, save the headache down the road,
Anyone know the bolt head size of the head bolts???? 17mm 19mm???
Read some where it's a 12 point head????
 
Prob gonna get the alternator rebuilt while its out, save the headache down the road,
Anyone know the bolt head size of the head bolts???? 17mm 19mm???
Read some where it's a 12 point head????
Head bolts: 12mm, 12 point. Was there yesterday. You'll need a breaker bar too if it's anything like yesterday!
 
Radiator: get a recommendation for a good radiator shop and contact them. I think they can pop 'em open and rod out the core. Mine is all brass, and they pop it off and resolder when clean.
My radiator service will cost about $125. I pick it up Monday.

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys, I already had top plenum off the intake once due to believing I had a faulty injector, turns out I did have a injector with higher than spec resistance. So after getting the injectors serviced and replacing the one bad one, getting it back together only to have the same #1 misfire. Figured it was the HG. Had Slee take a look at it for me and it turns out to have a burnt exhaust valve on #1. Slee thought it was just a bad head job from whoever owned it before me. I don't have the money to let them finish the job, so I towed it home and started to disassemble. She's ready to pull, valve grind kit, hose kit in hand, thnx CDAN. Just trying to muster the courage to yank it.
I also noticed the oil pump cover oozing goo all over and thought what a good to to replace. How hard is it gonna be to get the crank pulley off now that the motor is almost minus a head??? How do u go about boiling out a radiator with plastic tanks???
 
Head bolts: 12mm, 12 point. Was there yesterday. You'll need a breaker bar too if it's anything like yesterday!
Oh, I'm going to get the above socket in 1/2" drive for the install and the torque wrench. It would have been comforting on the removal...
BTW, on that pair of head bolts at the very back of hot #6 cylinder I sheared off a cheap 3/8 extension. It was so tough to turn, with a cheater, that I thought I was shearing the head bolt, so it was a relief when I found out that it was the extension instead.
Follow the proper un-torque procedure too.
 

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