Severe starting rattle this morning

[RickyRacer]

I've recently started to get the common high revs with a bit of (lifter?)rattle at morning startups, but this one worried me.
When I start her up this morning it sounded like a machine gun! It was shaking and rattling like crazy. I let it run for about 10 seconds and it started to quiet down but only slightly. I turned it off...checked the oil...it was maybe 1/2 quart low. I put 1/2 quart of oil in and started it back up. She seemed to be happy...? No rattle, but the idle wasn't as smooth as it used to be.
I drove it to work and around town with no problems. Everything seems to be back to normal.
Any thoughts?
I gave the cruiser the weekend off. So, it sat for a few days.....?
I've searched and found the high rev solution, but what would cause such a severe?

Addict reader...novice writer.

Thanks!

Rick

 

[stuck in GA]

yeah i had that problem once too with my 80. it did that crazy rattle thing once and never did it again. i dont know maybe i just got lucky.

 

[NorCalDoug]

BANG, BANG, BANG, BANG, BANG, BANG, BANG, BANG...
Then normal idle?

I get that every once in a while, but am never able to duplicate it. There seems to be no pattern (i.e. it's not right after I wheel, due to weather conditions, etc.)

It happens maybe once ever 4 or 8 weeks. Mine only lasts about 2 or 3 seconds, but it's loud as hell.
On mine it sounds like it's coming from the US DS of the engine compartment, but I haven't been able to pinpoint it yet.

 

[snowwolfwarrior]

Ear bungs are a marvelous invention, I sell them at £1000 a set, it's cheaper in the long run....LOL

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

I will give this a shot and this is my diagnostic on this issue.

1. Sounds like a dry start and looks like you don't have an anti-drain back valve on your oil filter and if you have the ADBV it is not working.

2. You may have a blocked oil passage in the engine and cause the engine to run quiet when the oil gets to the bearing.

3. My recommendation is to flush the engine couple of times, fill with synthetic oil and use a quality oil filter like Wix or Napa gold since the 20004 filters are not available anymore. Just my .02 Cents.

 

[NorCalDoug]

am using mobil1 and OEM filters.
never happened until returning from the first Rubicon trip this past summer.

 

[anderaa13]

Was the truck started and shut off quickly the day before? If my truck is started for a few seconds and then left to sit for a couple days, I sometimes get the same noises you describe when I start it again.

Aaron

 

[cruiserdan]

What you describe may be "1FZ start-up rattle"

not unheard of. What ambient temps are you seeing?

If it happens every morning, try this as a test:

Pull the EFI fuse and crank the engine for about 15-20 seconds. Replace the fuse and start it. My bet is the noise won't be there. I have always thought that 1FZ's start too fast and they "get ahead" of the oil curve. I have thought of installing some type of easy-to-get-to switch so that I can interrupt power to the EFI so that I can crank it over to get the oil pumping first.


Oh, do not interrupt the ignition circuit, be sure to kill the injection. If you crank it the other way it will load up.

D-

 

[ogsuv]

I just did the rubber o ring mod from the tech section, and cleared up my start up rattle completely. $.51 from the plumbing section of my local hardware store. I would try that first, then if it persists, I guess follow everyone else's advice to narrow it down.

 

[reffug]

3. since the 20004 filters are not available anymore. Just my .02 Cents.

Really ........

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

Posted by reffug
Really ........

Yeah Really.......... Unless you know any dealers out there who still carry this filter, then let us know. But one thing I do know, I got 17 20004s in my shelf.

 

[RickyRacer]

Thanks for ya'lls input.
Aaron, you reminded me of something. The truck sat for 3 days. However, I did start it up and move it out of the carport. Running time maybe 30 seconds. hum.....
Metro, I'm doing the oil change today. I'll let ya know if I find anything. I have my fingers crossed that it's not my rod bearings.
C-Dan, thanks for the tip.
I mentioned my situation to a friend and he told me 'bout an old school trick. Some folks used to mix a little tranny fluid with the oil and run it for about 100 miles then replace it with reg oil. He said it was/is a good detergent for cleaning oil passages. Sounds like suicide to me.
Anyone ever heard of this?
Thanks Again!
Rick

 

[Rusty Phillips]

BTT found this after a search on ignition kill switches and / or prelubers

What you describe may be "1FZ start-up rattle"
not unheard of. What ambient temps are you seeing?
If it happens every morning, try this as a test:

Pull the EFI fuse and crank the engine for about 15-20 seconds. Replace the fuse and start it. My bet is the noise won't be there. I have always thought that 1FZ's start too fast and they "get ahead" of the oil curve. I have thought of installing some type of easy-to-get-to switch so that I can interrupt power to the EFI so that I can crank it over to get the oil pumping first.


Oh, do not interrupt the ignition circuit, be sure to kill the injection. If you crank it the other way it will load up.

D-

any followups to the EFI / ignition kill switch (as a preluber idea)?

found this thread discussing prelubers http://www.outdoorwire.com/lists/toyota/200105/msg00199.html

When I crewed on the Top Alcohol Dragster we always
spun the engine over until we had oil pressure, then
turned on the ignition. Granted that's not as good as
having pressurized oil in there b4 anything spins, but
by not having any combustion loads on the bearings the
contact pressure is considerably reduced.
A fair number of dry sumped race cars have oil
pre-heaters on the oil tank. This get the oil up to
near operating temp b4 anything is spun, further
aiding in bearing life (easier to pump hot oil than
cold). Those magnetic oilpan heaters or blanket oilpan
heaters our cold country fellow listers likely have on
their trucks can help with this process. Check JCW for
those. We intend to buy one of the magnetic type for
the Dyno at work.
I don't do any of this on my DD or my truck. Were I
going to do something I would rig an ignition kill
switch. Start-up would consist of spining the engine
with the ign killed for a few seconds, then turning
the ignition on.
BTW, having just the opposite on a TD, i.e. an ign-on
override switch, to let it idle during short hot stops
can really help with turbo lifespan. My VW bunny truck
TD had such a switch. Ment I could lock the steering
and the cab with the engine idling whilst I ran into
the mini-mart or such.

seems easy enough to wire your cigarette lighter or the "low" side of your rear heat switch (or any of a hundred other switches) into a kill switch