Serpentine Belt Replacement

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Joined
Mar 16, 2022
Threads
4
Messages
18
Location
Wisconsin
Can the serpentine accessory drive belt on the 200 series(2016) be replaced by accessing it from under the hood(rather than from below, requiring removal of the protection panels), maybe requiring removal of the coolant overflow container? I did it several times on my 100 series and it was a simple matter of routing the new belt properly and then using a wrench on the tensioner to rotate it to reduce tension on the tensioner pulley and sliding the belt over it. Any pitfalls or tips? I am at 75,000 miles and it seems like a good idea before summer travels. Should I replace the tensioner at the same time? My son-in-law had a tensioner fail on his Suburban at freeway speeds and it was pretty ugly.

Peter
 
If your vehicle chirps or squeals under cold start or when it's been raining it's reasonable to do belts and pulleys. If not, I would not bother until it makes noise. You'll very likely have 10k miles of warning before you have an issue.
 
in case you want to make an underhood sticker of the belt routing

Screen Shot 2022-05-23 at 2.32.45 PM.webp
 
If your vehicle chirps or squeals under cold start or when it's been raining it's reasonable to do belts and pulleys. If not, I would not bother until it makes noise. You'll very likely have 10k miles of warning before you have an issue.
And if so, while you have it apart check the fan bearing bracket. I had a faint chirp even after new belt, idler and tensioner. Turned out to be the bracket.
 
in case you want to make an underhood sticker of the belt routing

View attachment 3016612

I have been scouring the forums for this and finally found it! Tackling the Serpentine/Tensioner/Idler Pulley/Checking in on the water pump this weekend.

Many thanks!
 
@grinchy @RET2 Either of you happen to know the Torque Spec for the Idler Pulley? I know the two on the tensioner (6mm/12mm) are 17 ft/lbs but can't find anywhere the Idler Pulley. Thanks in advance!
 
idler pulley is 32 ft/lbs
 
Did this job today in my driveway. Took me two hours start to finish, taking my time. I prob could have knocked this out in an hour.

I got the Dayco tensioner & pulley from Advanced auto parts for $52 (on sale) and the Bando belt from Amazon for $21.

Plenty of videos on YouTube to follow. I went from the bottom and it was pretty easy.
 
Doing this during the upcoming weekend. I replaced the belt last year and have the idler and tensioner on hand. Are all of the bolts (one on the idler, one on the tensioner, and the allen on the tensioner) lefty loosey? I read somewhere that one was left threaded, but only found that in one place. Mine has been off and on chirping for a year and a half…mostly hasn’t been chirping, but don’t want to push it anymore.

Edit: I think I figured it out. Looks like everything is righty tighty/lefty loosey…except for the bolt that is on the tensioner holding the actual pulley…so it doesn’t come loose when taking tension off the belt.
 
Last edited:
Doing this during the upcoming weekend. I replaced the belt last year and have the idler and tensioner on hand. Are all of the bolts (one on the idler, one on the tensioner, and the allen on the tensioner) lefty loosey? I read somewhere that one was left threaded, but only found that in one place. Mine has been off and on chirping for a year and a half…mostly hasn’t been chirping, but don’t want to push it anymore.

Edit: I think I figured it out. Looks like everything is righty tighty/lefty loosey…except for the bolt that is on the tensioner holding the actual pulley…so it doesn’t come loose when taking tension off the belt.
I did belt & tensioner this summer, don't recall any left hand threads. you should be good to go
 
Does anyone recall if you had to ‘lock’ the tensioner with a hex wrench in the hole in order to get the 6mm hex bolt out? I tried today and it seemed that my bit might not have been completely flat…I could not get the tensioner to the point where I could lock it.

Anyone used an air ratchet to get that 6mm out??
 
I definitely remember putting a pin in the hole. I don’t recall if it mattered for taking the tensioner off, just forgetting the belt off
 
Shouldn’t be needed to get the Allen bolt out. Maybe to get to one of the other bolts.. can’t remember exactly.
 
The key to the Allen bolt is cleaning the head out very well before attacking it. Dirt builds up in there and will prevent the Allen bit from fully seating. Even then it can be a pain.. it really tends to “crack” loose when it goes.

Tool all the way, make sure it stays at 90 degrees, don’t let it slip.
 
The key to the Allen bolt is cleaning the head out very well before attacking it. Dirt builds up in there and will prevent the Allen bit from fully seating. Even then it can be a pain.. it really tends to “crack” loose when it goes.

Tool all the way, make sure it stays at 90 degrees, don’t let it slip.

Yeah, not a lot of room in there and my breaker bar is too long so I might just have someone else mess with it…haha. It’s hard for me to lay underneath for an extended period of time due to back issues. I might give it another shot later this week.
 
Yeah, not a lot of room in there and my breaker bar is too long so I might just have someone else mess with it…haha. It’s hard for me to lay underneath for an extended period of time due to back issues. I might give it another shot later this week.
Did you remove the center spine support for the splash shields? That opens up a lot more room for longer tools.
 
Did you remove the center spine support for the splash shields? That opens up a lot more room for longer tools.

I took my aftermarket skid off, but didn’t take anything else off. Is that support going from front to back? I don’t recall seeing it.
 
I took my aftermarket skid off, but didn’t take anything else off. Is that support going from front to back? I don’t recall seeing it.
With aftermarket skids it’s most likely not there. Goes from the front crossmember under the radiator back to the one under the engine.
 
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