Separation from intake hose to resonator?

[Grass]

Hey guys. First post here. I'm fresh to the Land Cruiser world. Just bought a '99 with 213k miles about a month ago

Anyway, last week I noticed a separation where the intake hose meets the black box that runs under the engine cover. I'm unfortunately below average on "under the hood" car knowledge, but from searching on this site, it seems it's called the air intake resonator. Sorry for my ignorance. The separation is occurring right under the "A" in the watermark of this photo: Air Intake Resonator

Naturally, as any good non-mechanic does, I duct taped it until I can get it fixed correctly. Since it's been taped, it's actually running better, with more power than before. But yesterday, after about a week of being taped, my check engine light came on. I have no idea if it's related. Seems like it would have happened sooner?

Do I need to replace the entire intake system? (Looks to be over $300 online) Or is there another fix?

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[Greenbean]

Maybe try a J-B Weld product on it,

I certainly wouldn't go full new unless you couldn't locate a used one from a junk yard.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Maybe try a J-B Weld product on it,

I certainly wouldn't go full new unless you couldn't locate a used one from a junk yard.

He already has a used one. Just sayin......

 

[rusty_tlc]

If you just want a ghetto fix (nothing wrong with that IMHO) try this
Bondo Bondo-Glass Reinforced Filler, 1 Quart - Walmart.com

It will work better than a straight epoxy.

 

[Greenbean]

He already has a used one. Just sayin......

My bad, I didn't see in his post he had already purchased another intake.

Did I miss another thread or something?

My intentions were to make a recommendation on something I have used with great success before in the field.

 

[camino70]

The CEL may be unrelated, pick something like this up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SM8R04Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But go to an auto parts store today and have them pull the code.

I'd have used duct tape too, then move on to an epoxy type solution, not sure I like the $300 solution.

 

[ponytl]

epoxy will work I had a busted one (still do) I made a couple metal tabs that bridged the crack and riveted them on to keep the parts together, then epoxy then sprayed with rubber ie.. bed liner been that way for over a year... you have to look close to even notice

 

[rusty_tlc]

My bad, I didn't see in his post he had already purchased another intake.

Did I miss another thread or something?

My intentions were to make a recommendation on something I have used with great success before in the field.

My point is used parts, particularly plastic, usually aren't much better than the parts that just broke. I have had very poor results with junk yard plastic pays. IMHO if you aren't replacing with new try to repair what you have. JB weld is he's stiff for certain applications. In this case the reinforced Bond product might work better to reinforce the break.

 

[Greenbean]

10-4,

 

[2001LC]

HF has cheap or soldering gun will do. But for cool tool:

 

[Grass]

Thanks guys. I'll give these tricks a try. The CEL was unrelated. Picked up a code reader and looks like a misfire in #1 and #5. Yee-ha. Get to try and figure that out next.

 

[2001LC]

Most likely coils, but I would fix air box first as it's up stream of #1 & #5 and down stream of MAF. The leak in air box change air fuel mixture and vacuum.

 

[Grass]

Will do. Hopefully it'll fix it.

The CEL has come on twice, but never stays on. One time after in-tank fuel injector cleaner. Another time after I ran a quarter can of Seafoam through the vacuum hose. Stayed on a couple days both times and then went away. Should that tell me something? It's accompanied by a constant vibration that doesn't go away no matter if it's idling or if it's in neutral/drive. So far I've cleaned the MAF, checked the PCV and changed the spark plugs.

 

[2001LC]

Vacuum leak, that may be changing with movement, due to vibration, engine moving, plastic expanding & contracting with temp. ECU trying to adjust to changing condition which includes all work you've done.