Semi DIY Sliders - Trail Gear 67” Weld-on kit

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Joined
Sep 11, 2006
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Location
Signal Mountain, TN
I’ve been off-roading for about 20 years in everything from rental cars, to stock 4x4s, to a full on Truggy, and I have always seen the value in sliders. I just hadn’t gotten to that point with the 200 series until I almost went too far in this creek crossing and mangled the stock step on the passenger side. That experience plus an upcoming trip to Breckenridge this fall pushed me over the edge... It’s time for sliders.

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There are a lot of great vendors making some beautiful products for the 200 series, and I have a welder, tube notcher, and tube bender, so there are no shortage of options. I found a good deal on Trail Gear’s 67” weld on kit and couldn’t pass it up. Less than two weeks later, they showed up and exceeded my expectations on how nice they look.

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My plan is to add filler plates so that they are a better step for the kids, and help with loading boats and bikes on the roof. I’ll also be plating the frame and gusseting/welding them on. This cruiser has 230k on it, and I plan to keep it past 300k miles, so I’m not really concerned about removing them. I also live where rust isn’t an issue.

I’ll be updating this thread with progress over the next few weeks. Stay tuned if you like!
 
I removed the driver’s side step and did the Initial fit up this morning. I think these will turn out great!

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do they make them with a kick out???
 
do they make them with a kick out???
They do not make them with a kickout, but I remember seeing a few other vendors that make a weld on slider with a kick-out. Someone recommended one in the "What have you done to your 200 series" post. You might look there.
 
A similar set with kickout. I got as far as calling this place, they can also make custom length with a couple weeks lead time. In the end I waited a long while for a bolton-ish solution.
 
I got the filler plate and the feet and legs done for the first side. I made the mistake of fully welding the filler plates, and i got a tiny bit of warpage. I was able to straighten it out, but now I am stuck fully welding the other side to match. Oh well. I’ll just weld smaller stitches and cool it down in between on the second one. In a few days I’ll hopefully catch the other side up and get them painted for install.

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If you stitch weld - do a short section, skip a long section, stitch a short section, and when you've done the entire length, go over it again with more smaller stitches, eventually having a continuous weld - you can avoid warping. We used to do that on rally cars when welding the seams to stiffen the car. If you tried to lay long beads, it would warp the heck out of the metal.
 
eld - you can avoid warping. We used to do that on rally cars when welding the seams to stiffen the car. If you tried to lay long beads, it would warp the heck out of the metal.
Yup that is the plan.

I stitched these, but obviously took too big of the stitches.

I also wasn't quite happy with the plain flat filler plates so I ordered a 1" Dimple die. It's a week or two out.
 
Thoughts on doing similar for an LX? Obviously some custom work to mount with the AHC system running along the frame but would it be out of the question?
 
Thoughts on doing similar for an LX? Obviously some custom work to mount with the AHC system running along the frame but would it be out of the question?
@MILOWILLI did weld ons for the LX.

There are two 'bolt-on' options for the LX at this point, from Slee and Metaltech 4x4.
 

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