seized turbo

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Jun 2, 2008
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peth
seized my turbo shaft on weekend going to wedge
wheel kept spinning nut undid it self and lost all boost

was a slow drive home N\a

1hd-ft

ct26 from 7mgte supra 22psi :P
ill update later with some pics
 
Where did the nut end up?????
 
WTF happened mate? Poor oil supply or no oil supply to the core? Was it draining to the sump ok? Was the turbo you bought a chinese cheapie off ebay? So many questions...:hhmm:
 
i posted this after i got home and the gf was driving ..so i was drunk haha

i ran a s*** after market oil line inlet /return from ebay hoses had a smaller i/d than factory toyota
im suspecting thats what caused it

i brought the factory Toyota oil lines today for $70

have a top mount intercooler

it was a ebay turbo had about 2 hours on it :P (i dont think thats why it failed tho)

i found the nut in the inlet elbow ....thats when i realized s*** was going down hill

removed the hose from the turbo to inter cooler
cable my gf's sock over the inlet of the intercooler as a filter and drove the poor girl home

oh and kept a eye on the egt's had to turn down the fuel it was getting very toasty (dropped the ball for a second and they hit 730c

got pulled over by the police half way home for going to slow (65 in a 110 zone :P )
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Should be an easy fix.

I would trash this turbo and buy a new or rebuilt one.

Next time, use red locktite on the nut!!!!

Personally I rebuild my own turbos rather than trust anyone else's work.

I also seat the nut by carefully chisseling the "screw" or "shaft" over it.
 
Should be an easy fix.

I would trash this turbo and buy a new or rebuilt one.

Next time, use red locktite on the nut!!!!

Personally I rebuild my own turbos rather than trust anyone else's work.

I also seat the nut by carefully chisseling the "screw" or "shaft" over it.

I don't think loctite is the answer. Most turbos use left hand threaded nuts so they self-tighten, the only way it'll come loose is because it's too loose to start with.

I couldn't bring myself to hammer or chisel on the shaft.:meh:
 
it wouldn't of undone itself if the shaft didnt seize so im just going 2 buy the same turbo and be happy with my 170kw baby
 
Even at 100,000+rpm I have a hard time seeing the nut loosen and fly off. It's pretty light.

This was your new T61, right? I don't really know of anyone else who has tried out the Chinese turbos but the price is hard to argue with - unless you end up buying 3 or more. :(
 
I don't think loctite is the answer. Most turbos use left hand threaded nuts so they self-tighten, the only way it'll come loose is because it's too loose to start with.

I couldn't bring myself to hammer or chisel on the shaft.:meh:

Sorry Dougal, but you are dead wrong on this.

As someone who has rebuilt turbos and actually read the manufacturers' instructions on how to do so, the locktite and the chissel lock are required.

The fact that his nut spun off is a perfect example of how it does indeed happen and why it needs extra help staying put.

Just because direction of the spin is against nut direction does not mean it tightens all the time. It means loosening forces are applied whenever the turbo spools down.

Don't take this personally as you are in general a smart guy, but you are wrong in this case.

Best, (and apologies),

T
 
The only loosening force is the rotational friction slowing the rotating assembly down. It takes a long time to do this. It's nothing compared to the relatively fast acceleration (tightening the nut) it experiences every time you step on the peddle. If you were slamming the brakes on the shaft and the nut had some real weight to it, then perhaps it would want to keep spinning and could loosen itself. I don't believe that this particular turbo was built right in the first place.

We don't know the sequence of events - shaft seizing first or nut loosening first. I am guessing the nut.

Incidentally, I'm sitting here looking at a freshly rebuilt turbo done by the best shop we have around here. They have not staked the nut and there is no Loctite.

If I was doing it I would probably be inclined to use Loctite but I don't really have any good reason to believe it is necessary.
 
This thread drive to a question .. what happen to the turbo when you are in compresion .. for us with manual tranny, down to any hill in proper shift and alowing the engine holding the Cruiser ..
 
Sorry Dougal, but you are dead wrong on this.

As someone who has rebuilt turbos and actually read the manufacturers' instructions on how to do so, the locktite and the chissel lock are required.

The fact that his nut spun off is a perfect example of how it does indeed happen and why it needs extra help staying put.

Just because direction of the spin is against nut direction does not mean it tightens all the time. It means loosening forces are applied whenever the turbo spools down.

Don't take this personally as you are in general a smart guy, but you are wrong in this case.

Best, (and apologies),

T

As someone who rebuilds their own turbos I disagree.
I've never used loctite or a chisel and never had a wheel come off. I've also never found evidence of loctite or a chiseled shaft on turbos I've stripped.
Holset's service manual instructs to oil the shaft and threads.

My concerns with loctite is the extra torque to get it undone when the time comes could damage the shaft.
My concern with the chisel is the same, but also adds the possibility of bending or damaging the shaft with the chisel hits.

However, I've only rebuilt garrett and IHI turbos. I suspect garrett also make toyota turbos but I have no proof.
 
This thread drive to a question .. what happen to the turbo when you are in compresion .. for us with manual tranny, down to any hill in proper shift and alowing the engine holding the Cruiser ..

I can get 3psi in engine braking if it's spinning faster than 2000rpm. But the turbo won't know any different to normal operation, it's still being spun by the exhaust side.

I've always wondered how a turbo gets on when the engine sucks water. Sure it usually kills the engine but I've always wondered about the turbo.
 
I've always wondered how a turbo gets on when the engine sucks water. Sure it usually kills the engine but I've always wondered about the turbo.

I don't know and don't have any intention to find out .. ;)
 
I have rebuilt literally buckets of turbos. I also lost a nut on the shaft before, and now I use locktite. I have also removed many nuts that have had locktite on them and had no shaft damage. I have also screwed a turbo by sucking water into it. It still worked good but made some strange noises. the engine survived fine
 

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