Seized Torsion Bar Bolt

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
162
Location
Nashville
The breaker bar did not budge and I have been soaking in PB Blaster for a few days. I got an electric impact with a claimed 1050 ft lbs. breakaway torque and that didn't work.

Is the next best option to add some heat? Add a cheater bar to the breaker bar? Any help / ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 
clean all the threads you can see on the top so you don't pull crud down into the threads. apply heat to the bolt head. get a longer bar/pipe/cheater and a buddy to hold one end on the nut while the other pulls (for safety).

if this fails the only option is to cut the bolt carrier out and replace the bolt and carrier assembly.
 
I have an electric impact with 1400ftlb breakaway and for my passenger side bolt all it did is eat my socket.

Ended up using fire > 7 feet of breaker bar with a friend, and learned a valuable lesson about scrubbing threads. If it will tighten, tighten it a little bit, scrub the threads down, and then used comrpessed air to blow anything that fell down out. Good luck. Skip straight to MAP gas, get that thing hot.
 
Clean threads, HEAT, cool with penetrating oil of choice, 6 point socket, 3/4" breaker BAR (any flex in breaker bar and bolt wins) a must.
 
also, while you have the breaker bar applying torque, have someone smack the top with a hammer. That jarring may be enough to get it to start spinning. Trying to tighten it is a good idea too. work it back and forth until you can start clearing threads.

have beer/water handy. you're going to be tired!
 
This may be obvious, but I'll throw it out there...

Make sure the front end is on jack stands, otherwise the weight of the truck will be working against you.

I have seen that but have not tried that. I’ve read it matters and it doesn’t. I guess it’s worth a shot before going to buy a pipe to extend the breaker bar.
 
I'm lucky and mine moved pretty easily, but I had to use a breaker bar when I tried on the ground vs just a 1/2" ratchet when it was in the air.

I think a key here too is making sure the threads are clean and then trying in both tightening and loosening directions to work the bolt clean.
 
Jack stands (as mentioned above) and heat are your friend.
 
I had same problem, only one side was on Jack's, and off the ground. Get both front sides off the ground and it came out eas-ier. Frustrated me for like 3 days.
 
I saw someone said apply heat and penetrant to the bolt head, but looking at it I was thinking about doing penetrant at the yellow arrows and heat at the red, on the nut. Is this wrong?

IMG_20190811_145841050tb.jpg
 
I could be wrong, but as long as the nut isn’t touching anything you don’t want to get hot t should work. The heat is feeeingn up the rust that’s seized the bolt. On you break it free it’s a matter of removing it. Of course just because it’s broken free doesn’t mean you still won’t shear the bolt off anyway. PB blaster, smart heating and patience are your friend.
 
Hey fellas,

No matter what I do, I cannot get these 30mm torsion bolts to budge any further. I’ve gotten each side about a quarter out and they simply will not go any further, 1500ft lb rated impact does nothing nor does a 7’ breaker bar. I’ve tried PB blaster and heat and they still won’t budge.

What are my options? Cutting them out? I’d hate to do that…

IMG_3984.jpeg


IMG_3985.jpeg
 
The bolts and little crescent wedges aren't all that expensive (at least years ago, when I needed them for the same reason). Way easier to just cut them off and start again with things that thread together properly.

48173-60010 for the little crescent nut, $16 at Partsouq. Maybe 2-3x if local.
90101-18010 for the bolt, $7 at Partsouq.

$40-70, and you get to stay hernia-free.

Edit: those part numbers for an '03 LX, verify if they're the same for yours (they should be).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom