If they're winter tires...like crap. But I guess it all depends on what your definition of 'perform' is. Regardless, you can probably get a few bucks for them on CL.
Say hello to my little friend! (06 LX build)
- Thread starter aaronrules
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- Thread starter
- #42
I took the running boards off today. Not gonna lie, it's looks pretty good sitting up in high mode.
As I was under it today I say the muffler was pretty rusted. So I may be looking at getting at least a cat back system a little sooner than I though. Any suggestions?
As I was under it today I say the muffler was pretty rusted. So I may be looking at getting at least a cat back system a little sooner than I though. Any suggestions?
- Thread starter
- #43
So Sears has a sale on KO2's right now. I just placed my order for five at 285/65r18. Going to put them on the stock rims and get some spacers. Then either rattle can or plasti dip the stock rims...trying to figure out what color I want to do.
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- #44
285 65 r18 KO2's installed today. They tire shop said they couldn't get the spare back underneath, but that's because they didn't try. Oh yeah back on the stock rims. Going to install the Viastech Bluetooth interface in a couple minutes since that showed up today as well.
So much better with the stock wheels. 
- Thread starter
- #46
I'm going to get wheel spacers eventually. May not be for anything other than looks, but that's fine with me.So much better with the stock wheels.
Agree - love the look of the stock wheels with KO2's. Get the slee 1.25" spacers - brings the tire a hair beyond the edge of the fender and it looks much better than stock.
- Thread starter
- #48
I tried my hand at some plastidip. I thought I got a graphite/gun metal color to go along with flat black. It turns out it was the "metalizer" I got instead. So I tried to do a combo type spray. I'm not totally sure I like it. But I do know that all the chrome bits are going to be changed to different color.
I also tried the headlight restore, but my headlights are cracked/pitted from the inside. So I will have replace the whole assembly, both low and high beams. Guess I need suggestions on HID assembly kits. Not bulbs, the whole thing.
I also tried the headlight restore, but my headlights are cracked/pitted from the inside. So I will have replace the whole assembly, both low and high beams. Guess I need suggestions on HID assembly kits. Not bulbs, the whole thing.
I'd keep the AHC if it's working for you. Will give you a good baseline. I've had 2007 LX with AHC and Slee Hi Mode override. Loved it. Fit 296/70/18 Trail Grapplers with some trimming. Had front and rear ARBs as well. If you don't adjust your springs/bars to match any added weight, your fluid will overheat prematurely and you'll be forced to ride in Nuetral mode. Change out that AHC fluid frequently. It's not tough to do at all. I wrecked that 2007 and now have 2004 LC with Slee reservoir shocks. Not as plush, but a good ride and swallow up the dips and potholes nicely. Defninitely recommend spending money on other mods before ripping out AHC.
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- #50
Well you all have talked me into keeping the AHC...at least for a while. My question is what is the better option? The Slee override switch or the mod that is posted in the FAQ? Any pros or cons to either one?
So the metalizer is a top coat for whichever color plastidip you chose. Mine is the gunmetal grey plastidip with the graphite metalizer. That's the closest you'll get to a gunmetal grey.
The graphite metalizer looks good over black too. It's just a bit too dark for my liking.
The graphite metalizer looks good over black too. It's just a bit too dark for my liking.
I have a Slee override you can buy. I decided against the override or the sensor lift. The problem is once you lift it using the ahc, you have to compensate for the added weight on the hydraulic shocks. To do that, you can crank the torsion bars in the front, but it's more complicated in the rear. You can try the 30mm spacers from Slee, but it's not certain you will be back in spec (presuming your pressures are in spec currently). You also have to compensate for the increased CV angle. That requires the diff drop. You'll also have to get it aligned.
It's a lot of trouble for little benefit. I personally like being in N on the road for better handling manners then being able to go to H to get clearance off road.
Just my 2 cents.
I have that Slee switch with the the Diff drop and t-bar adj installed by ACC and am very pleased!
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- #54
How long between base coat and metalizer did you wait to spray?
I wait about 10 minutes between all coats.
Did you address the rear coils? If not you'll likely have premature failure if you keep it in H all the time.
I'd be curious to see what your pressures are.
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- #57
I need to get the Techstream cable and software and see where I am at. I was thinking about taking it to the local Toyota place and having them baseline all the fluids and stuff just I have them all at the same interval. The maintenance records I have are from day one, but I haven't combed super deep into them.
I myself am curious about the AHC system and the health of it.
Every '06 and '07 LX I've looked at had that pitting on the inside. WTF is causing that?
