Samurai stretch, auto,doubler to dana 300, stickies (4 Viewers)

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Stickies and pavement don't get along. They won't last 1k miles.

As for the hubs/flanges......tough call. Do you really Forsee the need to be able to unlock?! Flanges with extra cowrie are definetly a lot stronger.

Georg

Exactly.
I would x2 this but since it's what I been saying then I'll x3 it.


i don't think that ozzie is gonna live long with 39s.......

Nope. Not bouncing... 40's is too much for an Aussie. I've blown my dowels, and the dowel spring kit is a popular item...
What do you recommend sans D60? My understanding is the spartan dowels are bigger..


Lenny, up to you, mayne. I'm in the same boat when it comes to advice. I kinda like to do what I wanna do and let people say, "told ya so," or the rare occasion I get to say it.

And I do that too, if it's a "no one's ever done this" kinda experimentation. But I gotta listen to stuff that is already tried and true. Red Labels are not new, and I've witnessed black marks being left on the road by a set... on an Ftoy (light). Money permits for you Lenny, so you have the opportunity to do it right.... don't let down the folks that don't have that opportunity by setting it up to fail.
hell you got full hydro! what are you worrying about turning a auto locker for?! flanges. i see fullhydro turning welded Dana60's, they'll definitely turn a minitruck/aussie. I got an Aussie in my front with flanges! I drive and flat tow it...


How dare you insult my wife!

No, you posted under her profile.
 
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Yes I would run an Aussie locker in this application. ARB's are stupid expensive BUT they are nice:

a) when they work right

b) to help keep your Birfs/Ujoints alive when you are backing up

c) like Charles H. Kim said, they really make it nice to steer

All that said, this thing is a Zuk and I think Lenny has about $5000 more in it than I would have ever spent on it, so tossing another grand at it makes my head spin. (sorry Len, I know you love it, please don't take that personally)

If.....IF the front driveshaft is nicely balances and long enough to not flop around over 10 mph then flanges/auto locker are fine with some street use. I think Lenny has a real crappy front driveline angle....I don't know for sure, but I seem to remember that. If that is not the case, then flanges will be fine until the driveshaft gets damaged and you want to go over 20 mph.
 
I would run flanges ONLY because you can get 'em with a picture of the nekkid mudflap girl on 'em.

Well, that and it's the right thing to do.
 
again I only like to replace or upgrade what I break. It seems like every rig will hold up differently.

So this what I'm looking at:

Definites

Longfields $650
Longfield Flanges $85 each x2=$170
OR longfield hub gears $120
ARP studs for 6 shooters $107.52
Trunnion bearing eliminator $209 (trashed a bearing when I broke a birf)

Later
 
....another grand in that axle . Sh!t man this love affair has got to go ; ). Man I am still diggin the zuk though.. I will probably (hope) get a couple more years out of it

Some possible later on options if i break the Aussie

Now add a ARB around $700
ARB Compressor $250
another damn grand!

HOLD ON FOR THE LENNATION CONTEMPLATION. So there was ya warning! some of you dudes cant handle it or think that I'm made of gold ( which i definitely ain't )
Now that's got me thinkin to just go with a HEAVIER duty axle.. Which unfortunately is HEAVIER.

Which would mean more HP to push it...

keep in mind that I do all the work myself and it's done on my free time when I can. If I had the money some of ya think I do I would just send it to a shop. Or buy a built axle and stick it in there.


So in my attempts to keep the zuk light I will do the longs, 6shooters, Flanges cause I like the idea of the heavy duty dowels, trunnion bearing eliminator kit.

Here a question

Anyone of my good buddies have experience with trunnion bearing eliminator kit? I Don't .

How hard is it and what's involved in drilling out for larger dowels for flanges? I have never done it before.
 
Your biggest advantage with the Zuk is the weight. I'd stick with the Toyota stuff until you just can't handle it anymore.

Trunion bearing eliminator requires you to press out the trunion pins in the 6 shooter arms. It's really not difficult. Just access to a press.

It's also not difficult at all to do the dowel pins. Just need a drill press and some way to set the depth (tape on the drill bit is about as accurate as you need to be).

Bangin'!!!
 
Hey Len,

Most people won't approve/agree with this option due to the weight and cost, but I'll give it anyway.

I'd do a narrowed D60 or 609 for the front axle. It will be more expensive (initially) and more weight, but it will eliminate any "turd polishing" down the road when/if the current axle upgrades fail. No idea what the price differential would be between turd polishing and D60, but I'm guessing the D60 will be a sure thing in term of reliability as long as you get some quality aftermarket part for it.

One additional advantage is extra weight up front. Helps for climbing.

If I were to build a tube buggy, I'd have a D60 or 609 axle up front.

Note: turd polishing term used loosely. LC axles are fine for smaller sized tires, but adding Longs, drive slugs, 6 shooter knuckles, trunion bearing replacement kit, etc., can result in LC axle price getting close the cost of a D60.
 
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lenross1 said:
....another grand in that axle . Sh!t man this love affair has got to go ; ). Man I am still diggin the zuk though.. I will probably (hope) get a couple more years out of it

Some possible later on options if i break the Aussie

Now add a ARB around $700
ARB Compressor $250
another damn grand!

HOLD ON FOR THE LENNATION CONTEMPLATION. So there was ya warning! some of you dudes cant handle it or think that I'm made of gold ( which i definitely ain't )
Now that's got me thinkin to just go with a HEAVIER duty axle.. Which unfortunately is HEAVIER.

Which would mean more HP to push it...

keep in mind that I do all the work myself and it's done on my free time when I can. If I had the money some of ya think I do I would just send it to a shop. Or buy a built axle and stick it in there.

So in my attempts to keep the zuk light I will do the longs, 6shooters, Flanges cause I like the idea of the heavy duty dowels, trunnion bearing eliminator kit.

Here a question

Anyone of my good buddies have experience with trunnion bearing eliminator kit? I Don't .

How hard is it and what's involved in drilling out for larger dowels for flanges? I have never done it before.

I read all of this banter ( cuz somebody pulled a sheila and logged in as someone else; ) and all I heard was "I ain't made of gold" and "these are the last tires I'm buying for the Sammy"

To this I would only add "Fo sho" and "kick azz!"
 
fj40charles said:
Did you "ax" him first?

Lol! Ummm no. I did not.
 
lenross1 said:
Lol! Ummm no. I did not.

Sorry! Too many computers!!!
 
Sheilalala said:
Sorry! Too many computers!!!

Why do y'all have so many computers? Is it all the gold you have laying around?
 
Hey Lenny.. Too bad the front axle is driver side drop.


2 Dana 60 ford nine hybrid steering axles - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

2 Dana 60 ford nine hybrid steering axles
Both are brand new never been installed. Long story short; I had these built and my project change half way through. They have been sitting in my garage for about 4-5 years... I do not want to separate at this time and I am not interested in trades. $5500 obo. Cincinnati, Oh. The buyer is responsible for shipping arrangements.

High pinion is offset to the driver’s side 22” and 32” no rotation has CTM u-Joints

Low pinion is dead center 32” and 32” with a 5 degree upward rotation and Spicer u-Joints

Both;
64" WMS to WMS
Full Detroits lockers
4.88 gears
35 spline dana 60 inners
Dedenbear kingpins
High steering arms with double ended ram
Drive slugs
6 x 5.5 bolt pattern
 
fj40charles said:
Hey Lenny.. Too bad the front axle is driver side drop.

2 Dana 60 ford nine hybrid steering axles - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

2 Dana 60 ford nine hybrid steering axles
Both are brand new never been installed. Long story short; I had these built and my project change half way through. They have been sitting in my garage for about 4-5 years... I do not want to separate at this time and I am not interested in trades. $5500 obo. Cincinnati, Oh. The buyer is responsible for shipping arrangements.

High pinion is offset to the driver's side 22" and 32" no rotation has CTM u-Joints

Low pinion is dead center 32" and 32" with a 5 degree upward rotation and Spicer u-Joints

Both;
64" WMS to WMS
Full Detroits lockers
4.88 gears
35 spline dana 60 inners
Dedenbear kingpins
High steering arms with double ended ram
Drive slugs
6 x 5.5 bolt pattern

Those are nice! If I am headed that route I may just look for a rig like georg 's or see if I can build one around that cost... Yeah right
 
Oh snap...

Flip the D300 or buy a Jeep case, route the exhaust to passenger side, and SUMB****LLGETRDUN!!!
 

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