Land Speeder
InstaH8R
+1'd
Also... why waste money on manny hubs when you can runs flanges... get the TG kit with extra dowels. No point in breaking manny hubs...
Samurai stretch, auto,doubler to dana 300, stickies
- Thread starter lenross1
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+1'd
Also... why waste money on manny hubs when you can runs flanges... get the TG kit with extra dowels. No point in breaking manny hubs...
I would run hubs. They should hold. Nice to be able to unlock. Especially if he plans to take it out of SE where it's long drive between trails.
Use the flange as a spare.
Use the flange as a spare.
If you do the six shooters, you could probably get buy with stock studs.
Otherwise:
hydro assist + 39s - ARP knuckle studs = sheared stock studs + no bueno
Otherwise:
hydro assist + 39s - ARP knuckle studs = sheared stock studs + no bueno
- Thread starter
- #364
Planned on running hubs so i can unlock. Good idea to have flanges as spares though.
Worth it to run hubs with extra dowels?
Worth it to run hubs with extra dowels?
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Did you ask that before you went and looked at an aisin hub? Go out and look at one.
There's a reason that you stop seeing manual locking hubs at a certain point in the evolution of crawling rigs. You're there tettering on either side... but I'd ere on the side of beef...
You've got stickies.... You're NEVER gonna run on the road. Some of the stuff seriously makes me scratch my head.
He might ride it on the road.....maybe......Sheila is looking for a convertible you know...
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
- Thread starter
- #368
Actually it will see some road time. Not much, but some. I still have to test the 4 link on street & at speeds over 10mph To see how it acts.
Not really worried about stickies wearing on street. Zuk is way light.
Daily drove bias mud tires for 4 years & they still looked brand new when i sold em.
Plus stickies work better when they are worn I'm told ; )
Last time i paid attention to a mini truck hub is when rebuilt the front 3 years ago.
Never had broke one so never was a subject for me till now.
Not really worried about stickies wearing on street. Zuk is way light.
Daily drove bias mud tires for 4 years & they still looked brand new when i sold em.
Plus stickies work better when they are worn I'm told ; )
Last time i paid attention to a mini truck hub is when rebuilt the front 3 years ago.
Never had broke one so never was a subject for me till now.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Wow. You just compared stickies to a general mud tire in road wear. I see my advice is no good here.
Land Speeder said:
I know you don't grasp the idea of light, but maybe some day I hope you will experience this and then you will understand. I could daily drive stickies on the zuk and they will probably outlast the KM2s on the 80.
My point is unless I slash the sidewalls these are probably the last tires I will buy for the zuk...
My advice is for you to get some longs. Guess my advice is no good as well
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
proof that all the kings horses and all the king's green still can't give humpty common sense.
I really wish I did have the available funds for stickies, longs, etc., etc. I do not. So I wheel creatively with what I have, and watch some who have everything not know how to use it.
- Thread starter
- #372
How dare you insult my wife!
Are you saying I don't know how to use stickies?
Your preachin to the choir about cheap wheeling, I've been wheeling a samurai since my college years. We didn't have an aftermarket so we had to make or find someone that made something for the zuk and this was before internets.
My philosophy is simple if it ain't broke don't fix it, if it breaks upgrade it. I've only recently broke birfields for the first time ( at GSMTR) so I will upgrade them. I used to run 36s on stock Sammy axles and never broke a stock zuk birf! Luck ? Wheeling style ? Whatever it was it was they still didn't break. so i never felt the need to upgrade them. I ran the he'll out of those zuk axles. After 2 rear ring and pinion flanges i swapped to a 40 rear end. When I wanted to do hi steer I decided to go with all mini truck yota axles and spend the money on the yota axles.
That's the reason for the dialogue today. Since I will be redoing the front end when I get the longs I might as well do the 6 shooters, hub gears (flanges),etc
again never broke any of the knuckles, dowel pins, hubs. So that's why I'm askin
Apparently I need to add a lil history b4 I ask a question
Are you saying I don't know how to use stickies?
Your preachin to the choir about cheap wheeling, I've been wheeling a samurai since my college years. We didn't have an aftermarket so we had to make or find someone that made something for the zuk and this was before internets.
My philosophy is simple if it ain't broke don't fix it, if it breaks upgrade it. I've only recently broke birfields for the first time ( at GSMTR) so I will upgrade them. I used to run 36s on stock Sammy axles and never broke a stock zuk birf! Luck ? Wheeling style ? Whatever it was it was they still didn't break. so i never felt the need to upgrade them. I ran the he'll out of those zuk axles. After 2 rear ring and pinion flanges i swapped to a 40 rear end. When I wanted to do hi steer I decided to go with all mini truck yota axles and spend the money on the yota axles.
That's the reason for the dialogue today. Since I will be redoing the front end when I get the longs I might as well do the 6 shooters, hub gears (flanges),etc
again never broke any of the knuckles, dowel pins, hubs. So that's why I'm askin
Apparently I need to add a lil history b4 I ask a question
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Stickies and pavement don't get along. They won't last 1k miles.
As for the hubs/flanges......tough call. Do you really Forsee the need to be able to unlock?! Flanges with extra cowrie are definetly a lot stronger.
Georg
As for the hubs/flanges......tough call. Do you really Forsee the need to be able to unlock?! Flanges with extra cowrie are definetly a lot stronger.
Georg
- Thread starter
- #374
orangefj45 said:
Good question. I could go either way I guess. Nice for street use which is very rare. I have an welded rear & Aussie in front so turning sucks...
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
i don't think that ozzie is gonna live long with 39s.......
if it were me, i'd try to get an ARB in the front and run flanges. same thing we do for D60s. once you get to a certain tire size, there's no way of getting around some of the other mods to make things last.
if it were me, i'd try to get an ARB in the front and run flanges. same thing we do for D60s. once you get to a certain tire size, there's no way of getting around some of the other mods to make things last.
Hubs. Break. Replace.
Repeat......
30x or so before you pay for that ARB.......
Repeat......
30x or so before you pay for that ARB.......
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Bomar
SILVER Star
orangefj45 said:woud you run an ozzie locker?!
E has abused the with 40s on his 80 and no issues so on the sami it will be no issue.
E has rode his aussie's like a lady from the red light district....
Here's my thoughts, and you can take them for what they cost you.
Lenny's rig weighs 3K# or so. That's really the prime reason for stickies. Some rigs are so light that they have trouble putting the rubber to the ground. That's where the stickies are primo. Daryl's stickies do him little good on a 6K# vehicle (plus Irok stickies aren't much of a step up from regular compound).
Based on the little breakage he has, I think you could do flanges or hubs - whatever you'd like. The problem is that you MUST replace the hub gears to the tune of ~$130 TOYOTA INNER HUB GEAR - Longfield Super Axles in order to prevent a strippage of the splines on the Longs (Bobby won't warranty spline strippage). And, you'll probably never unlock them. When you hit the street, if you put it in 2WD rear, you're not putting power to the diff, and therefore the Aussie SHOULD allow differential action, correct? So, unlocking the hubs really would only be necessary if you're worried about wear-n-tear on Birfs/Longs or fuel consumption (less rotating drag in axle). I doubt you'll drive enough on the street WITH STICKIES to be concerned with either of those.
Like others have said, despite being so light, stickies are stickies, and you will wear through them quickly on the street. UNLESS you travel only in a straight line and do not accelerate or decelerate at all. Take that as a challenge
Lenny, up to you, mayne. I'm in the same boat when it comes to advice. I kinda like to do what I wanna do and let people say, "told ya so," or the rare occasion I get to say it.
Me personally, I'd run the flanges and be done with it. 4340 CHROMOLY TOYOTA DRIVE FLANGE - Longfield Super Axles
If you do the locking hubs, you'll probably wanna get the ARP hub studs, too.
Lenny's rig weighs 3K# or so. That's really the prime reason for stickies. Some rigs are so light that they have trouble putting the rubber to the ground. That's where the stickies are primo. Daryl's stickies do him little good on a 6K# vehicle (plus Irok stickies aren't much of a step up from regular compound).
Based on the little breakage he has, I think you could do flanges or hubs - whatever you'd like. The problem is that you MUST replace the hub gears to the tune of ~$130 TOYOTA INNER HUB GEAR - Longfield Super Axles in order to prevent a strippage of the splines on the Longs (Bobby won't warranty spline strippage). And, you'll probably never unlock them. When you hit the street, if you put it in 2WD rear, you're not putting power to the diff, and therefore the Aussie SHOULD allow differential action, correct? So, unlocking the hubs really would only be necessary if you're worried about wear-n-tear on Birfs/Longs or fuel consumption (less rotating drag in axle). I doubt you'll drive enough on the street WITH STICKIES to be concerned with either of those.
Like others have said, despite being so light, stickies are stickies, and you will wear through them quickly on the street. UNLESS you travel only in a straight line and do not accelerate or decelerate at all. Take that as a challenge
Lenny, up to you, mayne. I'm in the same boat when it comes to advice. I kinda like to do what I wanna do and let people say, "told ya so," or the rare occasion I get to say it.
Me personally, I'd run the flanges and be done with it. 4340 CHROMOLY TOYOTA DRIVE FLANGE - Longfield Super Axles
If you do the locking hubs, you'll probably wanna get the ARP hub studs, too.
fj40charles
SILVER Star
Another vote for ARB locker. Being able to turn better with a selectable locker is very important to me.
When I get a chance, I'll get rid of the spool in the my rear axle and replace with another ARB.
When I get a chance, I'll get rid of the spool in the my rear axle and replace with another ARB.
