Builds "Salt shaker" the Suzuki samurai build (8 Viewers)

[onemanarmy]

Looks like they did the classic front shackle reversal. Done on 40s as well.

you do get some lift 'cheaply' and the idea is that the front axle is now allowed to move rearward when hitting a bump instead of the front axle wanting to move forwards at a bump, so the theroy is that the axle moving foward is not fighting the truck when at speed

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Looks like they did the classic front shackle reversal. Done on 40s as well.

you do get some lift 'cheaply' and the idea is that the front axle is now allowed to move rearward when hitting a bump instead of the front axle wanting to move forwards at a bump, so the theroy is that the axle moving foward is not fighting the truck when at speed

Yeah It took me a while to figure out what was going on. I think this mod was done cheaply but Looks to be good well done welds. but defiantly not a kit. I know it has had a SOA lift witch are not my favorite and In the future I might do traditinal springs for a lift but for now I am Not sure I am going to mess with it. It did ride surprisingly good for having those 31x10.50 tires under it. I took it up to 55 and it drove better than my fj40. The biggest annoyance is the way they mounted the front bumper after the mod. I am going to have to do some fabrication to get the oem style front bumper on it.

BTW I am bummed we didnt meet up! We still gotta talk fj55. Shoot me a pm when you get a chance on that. At some point I may be in raleigh too. I am trying to pick up a Honda metropolitan for Rachael.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I am not sure if anybody would know this but its really hard to find patch panels for the tub on the soft top models in the states but you can find tub sides for the tin top samurais here. I would like to reiterate if I buy the tin top sides I am planning on cutting them up for patch panels. I just need the wheel well area.

this is what I am thinking about getting left and right. https://www.carparts.com/wheel-arch-repair-panel/key-parts/fit6840591

My question is do you think the wheel well area of this panel is the same tin top and soft top? I know the top part is not at all. but the part I need seems like it would be. Below is the area in witch I will need.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Alrighty back to the shifter issue I had the other day. Here in the FSM it shows the spring and Locating ball. I set this up wrong. I had the ball behind the pin because thats how it came apart. Causing issues of not being able to find first. I got that all straitened out and now the shifter feels fresh. Although still more play than I would have expected but I feel like its just how it was because all the parts are fresh now.

All installed, I just need to put the boots back on.

The rebuild begins. The bend here looks bad because the light I swear! but it does match the tub side! I did already burn it in. I am going to sand it and start making it look nice once I get all the little sections I have to replace welded in.

I really need to start on the cowl area where the windshield frame mounts. I will start cutting that out hopefully next week as I will be gone this weekend.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I didn't get much done before I had to leave town for the weekend. but I did start making the patch panel for the mounting point of the windshield on the drivers side. I used a harbor freight metal brake and a little but of hammering and fitting. I am still working on this piece but I think its going to work. I think I am going to plug weld another reinforcement piece to the inside to support the windshield frame. Not sure if I m going to use a low profile m6 size rivnut or weld on a nut or something yet. More to come.

My Windsheild frame should be here by Tuesday.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I might not be able to get a lot done this week because of rain. but I should get my windshield frame in this afternoon or tomorrow afternoon. I need to keep cranking on the patches though. These are the days I wish I had a garage space because I cant do anything in the rain. I did get the drivers cowl patch more done and finessed into place. It should pull some of the gaps together better once I get the top portion done. I gotta work on the top part and some bracing for the inside still. I am hoping to burn it in this weekend.

The worst part about the this patch is I will do it again on the other side. At least I should have a plan and get it done quicker the 2nd time. maybe.

I think I want to try tinning and leading when I go and smooth it out. does anybody have any experience with that?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Updates:

Lots of life things going on right now so I really have not been lurking on mud alot in the past week or so.

Alright so I welded in both sides of the cowl. I need finish the passenger side but I ran out of Mig gas. I am going to try and get off the island soon to get more gas. I think the drivers side turned out really well. I did warp the panel in slightly in one corner but the lead filler should take care of that. I my try and hamer it with a dolly a little bit too. Its hard to get these big hands up in that space though. I still need to insert a rivnut for the windshield frame hinge. that should be easy. I did reinforce the back side to handle the windshield frame. I am planning on doing a tinning and leading fill in this area. I feel like this will last longer where I live. and look the best when I am done. I am not looking to do a factory perfect build here so I may actually fill the panel seam (that has seam sealer only attaching it)

I tried adding new turn signal and wiper arms but ended up breaking the old brittle plastic. so I bought a chineesium replacement. it should be here the end of next week. I also got a new shift knob and transfer case knob.

I also got the windshield frame in and already primed it for paint. I also think I am going to use the self leveling roll on urethane primer that east wood has after I epoxy and do some glazing. I think am going to paint the samurai red using a urethane single stage. I gotta make my decision soon on the color though.

saw this really cool 70 series camper last weekend. I think they drove up from south and central america!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

For some more instant gratification I installed the windshield frame temporary. I wanted to check fitment after all the welding and fab work. with the lower windshield gasket it seems to fit really well! I am very happy with it. fold down windshields are the best. The US market should have gotten the fold down windshields! everything seems to fit and latch down perfectly! I purchased some eastwood tinning butter and a couple of 1/4 lb sticks of body solder. I am started to get excited although I have a crap ton of work left to do.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

My rear tub panels will arrive today from fedex! Maybe I will be able to tack them in this weekend! I have not quite figured out the plan fully yet for that. I am also planning on fabbing up the front bumper. I am going for a oem front bumper but the mounting is going to be custom because of the modifications done to the suspension. I am also planning on dropping the gas tank to do the tub repairs. I really dont want to do any welding around it so its gotta come out. I thought it would have a drain plug like most toyota 4x4s do but I looks like It does not. Unfortunutly I think its pretty full. I also have a new sending unit to put in the tank as well.


Not sure If I will get alot of answers but I really need some carb advice. I am going to put a different carb on it. Somthing is wrong with the carb thats on it. I am thinking weber. I have a weber on the isuzu pup and it starts first crank almost every time! alot of people to the toyota 3k carb but from what I can see if I want a non chinese carb its more expensive. I can get a weber for 32 for about 100$ and then the mounting kit for another 60 with the adapter for the factory air cleaner. I think thats the move. But any other opinions would be appriciated. I also should say I do want to keep the factory air cleaner set up! I am not wheeling this thing. it will be mostly a beach 4x4!

 

[onemanarmy]

The fold down windshield makes this project worth every penny

What is wrong with the carb? Have you tweaked any of the adjustments? Is it the factory carb? How much smog equipment is still present? Looks like all. Does this truck have any crude computer contolled emissions with an emissions computer?

Could rebuild the factory carb (and then you'll know what you have....carbs get gummy quick)

Or yea, get a weber and completely desmog it and have 2 vacuum lines (1 to dist. advance and 1 for PCV)

 

[RevISK]

I’ve got a Weber in good condition with some extra jets, an FPR and some of a rebuild kit.
Would definitely let it go for a reasonable sum if you want to go that route.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

The fold down windshield makes this project worth every penny

What is wrong with the carb? Have you tweaked any of the adjustments? Is it the factory carb? How much smog equipment is still present? Looks like all. Does this truck have any crude computer contolled emissions with an emissions computer?

Could rebuild the factory carb (and then you'll know what you have....carbs get gummy quick)

Or yea, get a weber and completely desmog it and have 2 vacuum lines (1 to dist. advance and 1 for PCV)

Actually there are so many vacuum lines that I am having a hard time figuring out what goes to what. It does still have the smog stuff. Id like to get rid of it just to clean everything up in the engine bay. I am not sure if it does have a computer, it does have what looks to be a o2 sensor on the exhaust manifold. Not exactly sure what it is too. its probably in the fsm I have. There are also some sensors and valves for idle up and emissions that at least one of those gizmos are not working correctly because It does not idle up correctly or run well until its warmed up. I cant find a vaccum leak though. used break clean trick to find something but no luck. visually inspected for a while but could not find anything obvious. I will adjust the valves and baseline everything before I do anything else though. It is the factory hitachi carb. I probably should pull it off and rebuild it. Does not look like a particulary fun one to rebuild. I can always keep it as a back up if I go weber. The hitachi does run but its caked in grease from the previous owner undercoating the car with some sort of industrial grease undercoating. This undercoating probubly saved the vehicle though. it has rust but all the important stuff is rust free underneath.

I will say on the weber, My isuzu truck has a weber and it starts on the switch every time. its really, really reliable. This seems more simple and reliable to me for what I want for the vehicle: "Or yea, get a weber and completely desmog it and have 2 vacuum lines (1 to dist. advance and 1 for PCV)" Not planning on going factory spec oem restoration .

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I’ve got a Weber in good condition with some extra jets, an FPR and some of a rebuild kit.
Would definitely let it go for a reasonable sum if you want to go that route.

Would you mind sending me a pm? I found one on fleebay I might get but I like going through mud because you know what you are going to get.

 

[RevISK]

Would you mind sending me a pm? I found one on fleebay I might get but I like going through mud because you know what you are going to get.

Sure. Standby.